Black Diamond Aspect Pro Review

The Black Diamond Aspect Pro is a new look in the high-top shoe category. This modest, flat trad shoe incorporates some of the higher-tech constructions we see in performance bouldering shoes. Notably, it utilizes BD Force Rubber, a split rubber sole construction, and a molded heel. The result is a shoe that feels more sensitive than other similar offerings but still maintains the rigidity needed for long routes. The softer flex of this shoe does mean it loses out in edging power compared to others in the category, but it performs very well for technical smearing, and its thin toe profile jams narrow cracks nearly as well as the discontinued slippers we all once loved.

Performance Comparison

Comfort

There are a number of notable features on the Aspect Pro that stand out even before you slide it onto your foot, ones that set it apart from other shoes in this class. The tongue is padded but airy, and the laces are thick, unlike any we have seen before on this type of shoe. There is a split sole with a molded heel cup, and the inside is soft. All of these components add up to a shoe that is quite comfortable for all-day climbing.

The thick laces hold tension exceptionally well, which is great for fit, but at times, they did create some hot sports where that tension wasn't spread evenly. The last of the shoes is slightly narrow and wasn't as comfortable standing on belay ledges as wider shoes – but this largely comes down to how well this particular shoe fits our foot. Testers with wider feet also noted that the narrow last combined with softer rubber made the shoe less comfortable to jam in wider cracks. For some, the molded heel cup helped this shoe fit like a glove. But for a few testers, it caused enough “shoe farting” that they actually didn't want to climb in this shoe. All of this is to say that if the Aspect Pro fits your foot well, you'll find a very comfortable shoe for all day trad climbs.

Smearing

Given the assumptions we all have about clunky, high-top trad shoes, the sensitivity of the Aspect Pro is astounding. It is the only high-top we have seen to date with a split sole, and the softer BD Force Rubber sets it apart from thicker-soled competitors. To counter the softer rubber and split sole, designers at Black Diamond added a full-length plastic flex plate to increase rigidity. We were delighted to climb in a trad shoe that allowed us to feel every little ripple in the rock while still having the support to stand and place gear over a long pitch. The BD Force Rubber is one of the stickiest compounds of any shoe in this class and molds into slopey crystals extremely well. If you prefer board-stiff shoes, the support on the Aspect Pro may feel lacking for long efforts. But the sensitivity is a nice change of pace for trad shoes, and we were very impressed with the smearing capabilities of the Aspect Pro, especially for climbing granite faces.

Edging

As an edging shoe, the Aspect Pro is precise and provides just enough support underfoot for sustained efforts on the wall. Compared to other shoes in this category, though, this is a softer shoe and doesn't provide as much power transfer or support. For slabby to vertical terrain, this shoe does a great job of “smedging”. But if the terrain gets steeper or goes overhanging, you'll want a more purpose-built shoe. The BD Force Rubber is really sticky, but of course, that carries the tradeoffs of a softer rubber compound. The rubber tends to roll and deform on the tiniest edges, making small holds feel insecure. This rolling of the rubber was especially noticeable in the heat, which is common of softer shoes. For those looking to experiment with their shoe selection, the Aspect Pro may be a great option in colder weather – like colder alpine climbs – because softer rubber will maintain its stickiness better in the cold and feel less clunky.

Pulling

Flat, high-top, trad shoes are not designed for steep, technical terrain that requires dextrous grabbing with your feet. With a flat, stiff design, it is really hard to curl your toes onto holds and maintain body tension without slipping off. The Aspect Pro is definitely not a shoe for pulling in the steeps, but its softer flex pattern and the fact that it is the only high top with a split sole make it slightly more capable than stiffer options. This shoe even features a toe patch and a molded heel, so if your trad project includes a roof or two, it may be the perfect tool for the job.

Crack Climbing

High-top trad shoes are almost always our top scorers for crack climbing, and for good reason: they are purpose-built for this sort of climbing. Even so, compared to the competition, the Aspect Pro is a nice change of pace. Whereas most shoes in this category are stiff with tall toe boxes, the Aspect Pro is softer with one of the slimmest toe boxes we have ever seen on this style of shoe. While climbing granite cracks at Lumpy Ridge, our lead tester noted how much better purchase he could gain with these shoes in thin jams and using rand smears.

The shoe feels like it took the narrow toe box and softer flex of the old Five Ten Moccasym (a thin crack favorite) and put it on a high-top trad shoe. For desert splitters, it seems very likely you'll start seeing the Aspect Pro on more climbers' feet. Where this shoe lacks compared to the competition is only in its level of protection for wider cracks. While it is a high-top, its narrower fit and softer sole cause more pain in hand-sized cracks, especially in granite. Narrower-footed climbers may notice this less, but our test team noticed they are considerably less comfortable in this crack size.

Should You Buy the Black Diamond Aspect Pro?

While some have simply tried to copy the most popular model, BD took its own route and created a trad shoe that feels like a change of pace from the norm. If you want a shoe for thin crack projects and super sensitive smearing, we suggest you give the Aspect Pro a shot. While it is only a touch cheaper than directly comparable options, it is worth noting how much technology Black Diamond packed into this shoe without skyrocketing the price. If you're looking for a top-end trad shoe – and, of course, it fits your foot – the Aspect Pro offers solid performance for the money.

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