REASONS TO BUY
Double keylocking biners easy to clip and unclip
Relatively affordable for such a design
REASONS TO AVOID
Not the lightest
Gate springs a bit tight compared to competition
18mm sling adequate but not great for grabbing
Black Diamond HotForge Review
A solid and affordable double solid gate design for those who prefer clipping these types of carabiners
Credit: Black Diamond
RELATED: Best Quickdraws for Climbing of 2024
Our Verdict
The Black Diamond HotForge Quickdraw features double keylocking, solid gate carabiners. The top carabiner has a straight gate and is easy to clean off bolts on steep rock due to the keylocking nose, while the bottom carabiner has a bent gate that helps center the rope into the ideal spot for dropping through on a clip. Some people prefer to clip a solid gate over a wire gate, but these types of draws usually cost significantly more than wiregate alternatives. Not so for the HotForge, which at a reasonable price, offers great value for a fully keylocking quickdraw, and makes a great affordable addition to any sport climbing rack.
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
Black Diamond HotForge | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  Best Overall Quickdraw for Climbing |  Best Overall Lightweight Quickdraw |  Best Bang for the Buck | Best Buy for Lightweight Draws | |
| Price | $16.39 at REI Compare at 4 sellers | $24.95 at Dick's Sporting Goods Compare at 3 sellers | $19.95 at Backcountry | $14.89 at REI Compare at 4 sellers | $13.50 List $13.50 at Backcountry |
Overall Score  |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | A no frills, but fully functional, solid gate quickdraw | Our favorite option for sport climbing | Weighing only 2.6 ounces, this quickdraw is perfect for those seeking lightweight performance in alpine environments or multi-pitch rock climbs | This sporty quickdraw offers solid performance at a relatively affordable price | A good value pick for trad climbers or anyone looking for an inexpensive option |
| Rating Categories | Black Diamond HotForge | Petzl Spirit Express | Black Diamond Litewire | Black Diamond HotFo... | Cypher Firefly II |
| Ease of Clipping (25%) | |||||
| Ease of Unclipping (25%) | |||||
| Portability (20%) | |||||
| Handling (15%) | |||||
| Ease of Grabbing (15%) | |||||
| Specs | Black Diamond HotForge | Petzl Spirit Express | Black Diamond Litewire | Black Diamond HotFo... | Cypher Firefly II |
| Weight | 3.6 oz | 3.2 oz | 2.6 oz | 3.5 oz | 2.6 oz |
| Sling Material | Polyester | Nylon | Dynex | Polyester | Dyneema |
| Available sling lengths | 12 cm, 16 cm | 12 cm, 17 cm | 12 cm, 16 cm | 12 cm, 16 cm | 11 cm, 16 cm |
| Width of sling | 18 mm | 25 mm | 12 mm | 18 mm | 10 mm |
| Non-Snagging Top Biner | Yes | Yes | No | Yes | No |
| Non-Snagging Bottom Biner | Yes | Yes | No | No | No |
| Unique features | Double keylocking carabiners | Sling is wider at the bottom to facilitate grabbing, stiff sling | Double hot-forged wiregate with a rubber keeper on the lower biner | Visual patterning designed to easily catch the eye while climbing | Double wiregates with a rubber keeper on the lower biner |
| Forging method | Hot | Cold | Hot | Hot | Hot |
| Manufacturer Warranty | 1 year | 3 year | 2 year | 1 year | At Cypher's discretion |
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Our Analysis and Test Results
In early 2020, Black Diamond scrapped their entire quickdraw line, replacing it with five new offerings. The HotForge Quickdraw is the most expensive of these new choices, and features keylocking solid gate carabiners on both the top and bottom. Most of the highest end sport climbing draws feature bent solid gates as the bottom clipping biner, and indeed many climbers prefer this action on their quickdraws. The downside is that these designs tend to be slightly heavier, and also cost more. The HotForge does a remarkable job combatting both of these common issues, weighing only 0.1 ounces more than the comparable BD HotForge Hybrid, which has a wiregate as the bottom clipping biner, while still offering a roughly 30% savings over the most expensive draws in this review. Those who want a solid gate clipping biner but don't want to pay top dollar will find a solid option here. These quickdraws currently only come in black and grey color schemes, and also offer the option of 12cm or 18cm slings.
Performance Comparison
The HotForge is an economical double solid gate quickdraw that can save you a lot of money over the higher priced competition, and works well. Here Sara Violett makes the clip on a project in Leonidio, Greece.
Ease of Clipping
When it comes to clipping, the most important thing to consider is how easy it is to clip the rope through the bottom carabiner. These draws feature a bent, solid gate on the bottom. The bend is nice because it naturally centers the rope over the gate, making it easier to quickly push the rope through without having it slide off or miss. This is a standard feature among solid gate lower clipping carabiners.
There's no doubt that bent gates for bottom clipping biners make a slightly easier time of it, as they center the rope over the middles of the gate before it drops through. These biners had relatively tight springs in them compared to others, meaning it took slightly more effort to make a clip.
We noticed that the gate springs on both the top and bottom carabiners are particularly tight when comparing them to the other competition, such as those made by Petzl or DMM. This tightness means that a little bit of extra force is needed to push the rope through the gate, making them ever so slightly harder to clip than the buttery smooth clipping action on the highest end draws. While this should very rarely be an issue, it is a small point that differentiates these draws from ones that scored and performed higher.
Ease of Unclipping
The top carabiner on this quickdraw features a straight gate keylocking design that eliminates any sort of hook or notch that can get caught up on the bolt hanger when trying to clean them from a route. This design is especially nice on steeper sport routes, where it is difficult to remove the tension from the quickdraw before you try to yank the draw off the bolt.
Lowering off and trying to clean the draws on a steep route. This is where having a smooth, notchless, keylocking nose is key. Removing a draw here requires pulling in for a second to release tension, and then quickly snapping the draw off the bolt.
That said, the tension of the gate springs once again very slightly affects the ease of holding the gates open to remove them from bolts. The HotForge carabiners are also machined smooth, without any of the easy to grab ridges or grips that some of the highest end carabiners have. Essentially, these draws work just fine, but subtle differences in performance are noticeable when compared to the top scorers and award winners.
Showing the keylocking nose design on the top carabiner, which doesn't have a notch or hook that can hang up on the bolts. That said, the pointy downward curve of the nose means they can take an extra flip to get off bolt hangers on steep routes that a smoother angled nose might not need.
Portability
On our independent scale, one of these draws with a 12cm dogbone weighed in at 3.6 ounces. Remarkably, this is only 0.1 ounces heavier than the HotForge Hybrid, with its wiregate clipping biner on the bottom, so the weight penalty for going with solid gates is negligible. These draws are of average size, and while they are a bit heavy for hauling into distant alpine walls, their portability does not affect their usage at all while sport climbing.
While these draws aren't super light, they are only 0.1 ounces heavier than their hybrid counterparts, and still save you about half an ounce per draw over the heaviest choices.
Handling
The bottom carabiner on these draws is held in place using Black Diamond's Straightjacket, a rubberized keeper that is sewn into the sling and resides inside the loop end of the dogbone. This keeper is effective at keeping the biner securely in place and oriented the correct direction. We experienced no durability issues with this rubber piece while testing, although if it should happen to rip, it won't be replaceable like those that slide over the outside of the sling would be. Overall, we experienced no noteworthy issues in handling with these draws, the carabiners are of average size that can be manipulated by hands of all sizes.
You can see the design of the keylocking bent gate on the bottom clipping carabiner. Also check out the Straightjacket keeper, which is the small black rubber piece on the inside of the sling that holds the carabiner in place effectively.
Ease of Grabbing
Over 20 years of relentless dogging on our projects has taught us that it's nice to be able to grab a draw when you need a solid handhold to get a bolt clipped before you take a giant winger. Fatter dogbones make this easier, and help ensure that you can hang on long enough, even while wicked pumped, to make the clip safely. These draws have an 18mm wide dogbone that is not especially narrow, but at the same time not super fat and comfortable to grab. Suffice to say that they get the job done, and we never slipped off the end because they weren't easy enough to hold, but they are more challenging and less friendly on the skin to hold than the cush, tapered, and fat dogbones on the most expensive quickdraws.
The 18mm wide sling provides an adequate handle to grab onto should you need it, and your hand won't slide off due to super small carabiners while you make the clip.
Value
These draws are mighty affordable for a double solid gate draw, offering upwards of 30% savings over the highest end draws in the review. However, there are higher rated draws at the same price, so they may not present the best value on the market. Expect to pay about a dollar extra per draw if you are looking for 18cm slings instead of 12cm. Alternatively, if you choose to buy a six-pack instead of singles, you can save about a dollar a draw, increasing the value.
Davy Odom relieved to have the draws hanging for this awkward clip on a mantle move on a warmup in Greece.
Conclusion
For the time being, the HotForge Quickdraw represents the top end of Black Diamond's quickdraw lineup, although it doesn't offer the same high end performance as the highest scorers in this review. It is a good budget purchase for those who like to clip their rope to a bent gate on the bottom.
If you want to climb out the tufa caves of your dreams, it sure helps to have a nice set of quickdraws! Here putting the HotForge to the test on a route in the HADA cave, Leonidio, Greece.
—
Andy Wellman
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