Arc'teryx AR-385a Review

The Arc'teryx AR-385a utilizes Warp Strength Technology, which does a really nice job at distributing weight across the harness and makes hanging for extended periods of time more comfortable. There are four plastic-covered rigid gear loops with flexible attachment points and a non-structural loop in the back for a haul line or extra gear. There are also four ice clipper slots sewn to the outside of the harness.

Hanging Comfort

The harness has a four-inch-wide waistbelt that uses Arc'teryx's Warp Strength Technology. Instead of placing padding around one or two bands of webbing that carry the load, this construction distributes it across the entire harness and then skips the padding altogether. This cuts down on bulk and weight without skimping on comfort. This harness has seen many updates over the years and is remarkably better and more fine-tuned than its former self.

When loaded with a rack, the AR-385a used to fold and pinch at the waist, but this problem has been fixed with a thicker waistband and leg loops. The waist belt and leg loops also have softer edges that don't cut into your legs and midbody, while the double-weave 4-way stretch fabric is comfortable on the skin if you ever climb with an exposed middriff. We brought the AR-385a as our only harness for an extended trip to southern Chile and wore the harness during several 2,000-3,000-foot granite rock climbs. Although not the most comfortable for hanging belays with several pounds of extra gear like water bottles, tag lines, and approach shoes, it was the best harness for the job and packed down so nicely into our haul bag while traveling from one bivy to the next.

Standing Comfort and Mobility

The AR-385a scored near the top of the list for standing comfort. The waist belt and leg loops are so thin that you almost forget they are on. While the harness is an impressive four inches wide at the back, it tapers around the sides of the hips towards the front, contributing to its comfort by limiting overall bulk.

The comfy double-weave, four-way stretch fabric feels nice against your skin, and the soft edges don't dig into your legs or waist when you're fully racked up. Previous versions of this harness would bend inward and pinch at the waist, and we were happy to see this problem fixed with the updated model.

Features

The AR-385a has many features that we like to see in an all-around harness - and a few that we don't. The gear loops are large enough to hold many quickdraws or lots of gear if you prefer to carry a rack on your harness. They are also slightly angled forward, which helps prevent all your gear from sliding to the back while climbing. Because the gear loops also lie flat, it is more comfortable to wear this harness with a pack when alpine climbing. The leg loops are easy to drop (if the need arises on a long route), and the hook attachment has a slim profile that won't create a pressure point when pressing your back against the rock.

However, the rear gear loops are pretty far toward the back of the harness, and it can be difficult to reach gear, especially when pushing a substantial objective with lots of extra gear to protect longer pitches. If climbing a chimney, it's best to slide the bigger gear towards your front, so the cams don't get in the way of upward progress. We like the extra-large rear haul loop for clipping all the extra stuff needed for a long multi-pitch climb – like a jacket, approach shoes, or for hauling a tagline. Overall, the construction and features of this harness are excellent, and they only continue to improve with each update.

This harness comes with four ice clipper slots that are sewn onto the outside of it, but the slots are not as tight and secure as we would have liked. Depending on which style of ice tool carabiner you use, you might have a lot of extra movement with these slots. This harness weighs 13 ounces in a size Small. It's extremely compact and packs down small into your bag, making it an excellent choice for light-and-fast alpine climbing missions or backcountry big walls.

Versatility

The AR-385a can easily transition from sport to trad to ice, and we ranked this model very high for versatility. Even if you mostly sport climb, you never know when the opportunity to try something new might arise.

The adjustable leg loops give you the option to use one harness for everything. You can easily open the harness up to fit over a pair of shell pants for ice climbing and then tighten it up to fit over leggings on sport days. The four ice clipper slots also add versatility, as not all alpine-styled harnesses we tested have this feature.

Adjustability

The AR-385a is very adjustable. The pre-threaded waist buckle cinches down with ease and stays there. The adjustable leg loops give about four inches of play, so you can layer this harness over leggings or pile on long underwear and softshell pants.

After hundreds of days of use over the course of a year, the nylon webbing began to wear down where the waist buckle was cinched. Harnesses aren't built to last forever, and this is something that naturally begins to happen with most gear over time. But it is certainly something to watch out for, especially if you are using the AR-385a a lot.

Should You Buy the Arc'teryx AR-385a?

The AR-385a is one of the most expensive harnesses in our review, costing three times as much as some of the budget models we reviewed. If you're just an occasional sport or gym climber, there are more basic models out there that will better suit your needs at a fraction of the cost. However, if you climb a lot – whether it be sport, alpine, trad, or ice – then the versatile AR-385a is worth every penny. This harness is an impressive piece of engineering; it is comfortable, sleek, and functional, with all of the necessary components we like to see in a harness. While it ticks all of the boxes as a do-it-all harness, it really shines for trad and alpine climbing, where you want a comfortable and lightweight harness whose compact size requires very little space inside your backpack during the approach.

What Other Climbing Harnesses Should You Consider?

If you are predominantly a sport climber or only climb occasionally, there are less expensive models that would better suit your needs. For example, the Black Diamond Solution is a sport climbing-specific harness that costs almost half the price of the Arc'teryx AR-385a. If you want another inexpensive option with adjustable leg loops, then check out the Black Diamond Momentum. It has a cushioned waist belt and leg loops to keep you comfy while projecting your next route, and is available at an unbeatable price point. The Mammut 4 Slide is another affordable option that features significantly more padding and adjustability, that is available for a very affordable price.