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DMM HB Brass Offset Review

These tried-and-true micro-sized pieces of protection are hard to beat for aid climbs, big walls, or any other free climb that requires serious protection
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DMM HB Brass Offset Review
Credit: Ian Nicholson
Price:  $165 List
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Manufacturer:   DMM
By Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Jan 6, 2020
68
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#6 of 7
  • Flared Cracks and Pin Scars - 30% 10.0
  • Parallel Cracks - 15% 5.0
  • Performance in Textured Rock - 15% 8.0
  • Ease of Cleaning - 15% 4.0
  • Durability - 15% 5.0
  • Use in Other Orientations - 10% 5.0

Our Verdict

The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “brassy” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the tiniest of fissures and are our Top Pick for a Micro Nut. While hardly a day-in, day-out piece of protection for everyday trad climbing, they are considered mandatory on any big wall aid route or free climb that requires tiny protection. That being said, their softer brass heads aren't durable enough for most climbers for everyday use as they deform to the rock, and their cables are more prone to kinking. To compare it to the competition, check out our article on the best climbing nuts.
REASONS TO BUY
Excellent in micro pin scars and flares
Good head shape for textured rock
Soft metal increases integrity of placements
Low profile swage
Stiff cables make placing them easier
REASONS TO AVOID
Hard to clean
Brass head material less durable
Not for everyday climbing
Fixed cables make the wire more prone to kinking
Expensive
Editor's Note: We updated this review on July 3, 2024 to offer new recommendations for other high performing stoppers.

Compare to Similar Products

 
dmm hb brass offset
Awards Top Pick Award
Best for Brass Micro Nuts
Editors' Choice Award
Best Overall Climbing Nut
  Best Buy Award
Best for All-Around Small Nuts
Price $165 List
$76.95 at Backcountry
$79.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 2 sellers
$80 List
$55.09 at Amazon
Check Price at Backcountry$13.50 at REI
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Bottom Line For big walls, aid climbs, or any other route that requires intense micro-protection, these pieces are the best of the bunchThey simply work where cams and other nuts won't. These nuts are the most versatile on the market are our favorite for all-around trad climbingWith its ease of cleaning and notable stability, these nuts make a great addition to anyone's rack but their size run isn't quite enough to stand along on their ownThese lightweight nuts are perfect for irregular rock types though they lack durability and cannot be purchased in smaller sizesA lightweight and durable nut that is ideal for pin scars
Rating Categories DMM HB Brass Offset DMM Alloy Offset CAMP USA Pro Nut Metolius Ultralight... DMM Peenut
Flared Cracks and Pin Scars (30%)
10.0
10.0
7.0
8.0
10.0
Parallel Cracks (15%)
5.0
5.0
8.0
8.0
5.0
Performance in Textured Rock (15%)
8.0
8.0
8.0
9.0
7.0
Ease of Cleaning (15%)
4.0
6.0
8.0
5.0
6.0
Durability (15%)
5.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
9.0
Use in Other Orientations (10%)
5.0
6.0
8.0
8.0
4.0
Specs DMM HB Brass Offset DMM Alloy Offset CAMP USA Pro Nut Metolius Ultralight... DMM Peenut
Shape Offset Offset Curved Curved Offset
Available Size Range 0-6 7-11 1-5 1-10 1-5
Material Brass/Steel Aluminum alloy Aluminum Anodized aluminum Aluminum alloy
Manufacturer Rated Strength 2.5 kN - 10 kN 12 kN 4 kN - 10 kN 7-10 kN 4 kN - 8 kN

Our Analysis and Test Results

From Eldorado Canyon to El Capitan, wherever you need micro-sized protection, these tried and true pieces of protection remain among the absolute best. While their durability isn't the greatest for every day trad climbing, they're tough to beat for their intended use - protecting the hardest to protect micro-fissures on Earth.

Performance Comparison


dmm hb brass offset - these aren't the best for day-in-day-out trad climbing as they...
These aren't the best for day-in-day-out trad climbing as they simply get beat up too quickly. But for spicy free climbs and big walls, they are essentially mandatory and well worth their above-average price for their superior holding power in the tiniest of sizes.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Flared Cracks and Pin Scars


Small spring-loaded camming devices have gotten notably better over the last decade, and more-and-more climbers are leaning toward carrying and using cams over nuts, given equal opportunity. Nuts still are an important part of any climber rack.


As a result of the cam-focused climbing era we are currently in, we rated each nut's performance in flares and pins scars higher than other metrics, since it's these placements where a nut can be perfect while a cam might not even be able to hold body weight. Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Besides an offset shape that is tapered more or less to fit old pin scars, both of these products use a softer metal (brass or a similar copper/iron alloy) in their heads to deform to the rock and offer a better “bite” when weighted. Their tiny sizes and offset shapes are why they are essentially mandatory for any big wall or aid climb.

dmm hb brass offset - you can see their "offset" taper which refers to their shape which...
You can see their “offset” taper which refers to their shape which is thinner on the right than the left. This taper is matched perfectly to fit pin scars, small flares, and other places where few traditional nuts or cams will fit.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

The DMM Peenuts also perform extremely well in small flares and pin scars, and their aluminum heads make them far more durable. However, the DMM HB Brass Offsets offer a better bite and are produced in smaller sizes. Comparing these options, we'd say the Peenuts are a better all-around trad climbing nut, while the DMM HB Brass Offset is best for aid climbing and the tiniest, trickiest to protect traditionally protected routes.

dmm hb brass offset - all of our testers love the "scopes" on either side of this nut...
All of our testers love the “scopes” on either side of this nut. This design lets their heads sit more flush against even textured or larger grained rock, which increases overall holding power and is one design aspect that sets this nut above its closest competition, the BD Micro Offset.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Parallel Cracks



We think DMM strikes a nice balance in their design where they left enough room for large-grained rock but kept enough surface area for good purchase in smoother rock types.


Performance in Featured Rock


Relative to their size the HB Brass Offset performs quite well in more featured rock types, and this is one of their more notable advantages over the otherwise quite comparable offset micro nuts.


They have a larger and deeper “scope” on the sides more commonly in contact with the rock that does a better job at accommodating more textured, bigger grained, and larger, crystaled rock.

Ease of Cleaning


These tiny nuts are NOT easy to clean. This is because of their micro size which makes the heads harder to access, the head's brass material deforms to the rock and the offset shape which means they don't like to be cleaned by pulling up on the cable, as it will promote kinking of the wire below the head.


dmm hb brass offset - comparing the profiles of the dmms (left) and the black diamond's...
Comparing the profiles of the DMMs (left) and the Black Diamond's (right). One aspect we like better with the Black Diamond Micros is they are easier to clean. This was because BD rounded off one of the inside edges of this nut. While we don't think makes a drastic difference, it is noticeable.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Durability


Like most micro brass or similar softer alloy nuts, these are not particularly durable. The brass in their heads is certainly far less durable than aluminum models, but even when compared to other brass models, the metal used in these DMMs is notably softer.


We think if you are looking for a day-in, day-out micro nut for general-purpose trad climbing, we'd go with the aluminum headed DMM Peenuts. However, for aid climbing or thin scary trad climbing where you want every little bit of holding power you can get (coming from the heads deforming on the rock), the DMM Brass Offset holds it down.

dmm hb brass offset - showing the full-size run of the hb brass offsets.
Showing the full-size run of the HB Brass Offsets.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Use in Other Orientations


These nuts can be placed in two orientations. However, because they are so small, when placing them along their less commonly used axis (with the narrower sides touching the rock), they are NOT very stable. This orientation is mostly for aid climbing or the most desperate of traditionally protected free climbs where it is hopefully nestled along with a bunch of other gear.


The second axis is slightly offset to facilitate placing it on the outside of pin scars. While most folks will hardly use this secondary axis, it is nice and isn't something that works as well with the DMM Peenuts.

dmm hb brass offset - unfortunately, the dmm brass is the most expensive micro nut on the...
Unfortunately, the DMM Brass is the most expensive micro nut on the market. If everything is equal, we certainly like them the best, however, we think the BD Offset Micro's are near as good and are significantly less.
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Should You Buy the DMM HB Brass Offset?


There's no doubt that the HB Brass Offset stoppers are spendy, even when compared to other brass nuts, which are already more expensive than their aluminum counterparts. Are they expensive? Yes. Are they worth it on a big wall or micro protected trad climb? Easily yes. Though expensive and tough to clean, we think they're easily worth the money to have on your rack.

dmm hb brass offset - basically required for big walls and aid climbs, these tiny nuts fit...
Basically required for big walls and aid climbs, these tiny nuts fit in micro-fissures when nothing else stands a chance. While not really durable enough for every day free climbs they are what you'll want to reach for your thinly protected head point project.
Credit: Ryan O'Connell

What Other Stoppers Should You Consider?


The DMM HB Brass Offsets are easily one of the very best brass micro nuts on the market and perfect for anyone considering a big wall, aid climb, or a hard, thinly protected free climb. If you're in the market for everyday trad climbing or for smaller sized nuts, we'd recommend the still offset DMM Peenuts as they work nearly as well in micro-fissures and pin scars but are significantly more durable.

Ian Nicholson