Our Verdict
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Tenaya Mastia | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Best for Sport Climbing and Bouldering | Best for Sport and Trad Climbing | Best Value for a Bouldering Shoe | Best for First-Time Buyers | |
| Price | $220 List Check Price at Amazon | $219 List Check Price at REI | $239 List Check Price at REI | $160 List Check Price at REI | $139 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | This especially comfy shoe offers balanced performance for sport climbing and bouldering | Designed for the modern climber, this versatile shoe excels for steep sport climbing and bouldering | This stiff shoe is an all-day workhorse that also performs equally well on edges and slabs | This is more than just a great shoe for the price; it's actually a great shoe, especially for bouldering | Solid overall climbing performance at an affordable price makes these the best value for an entry-level shoe |
| Rating Categories | Tenaya Mastia | Scarpa Instinct VS | La Sportiva Katana Lace | Ocun Bullit | La Sportiva Finale |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | Tenaya Mastia | Scarpa Instinct VS | La Sportiva Katana Lace | Ocun Bullit | La Sportiva Finale |
| Style | Velcro | Velcro | Lace | Velcro | Lace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: true to US size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 US sizes |
Comfort Fit: true or down 0.5 US size Performance Fit: down 1 US size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 US sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 US size |
Comfort Fit: true to US size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 US sizes |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 US sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 US size |
| Expected Stretch | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0.5 - 1 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size |
| Downturn | Aggressive | Aggressive | Moderate | Aggressive | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate (sharp toe) | High | Moderate |
| Upper | Microfiber | Microsuede / Leather | Leather / Microfiber | Microfiber | ECO Leather / Microfiber |
| Lining | Unlined | Lined | Pacific (in forefoot and back) | Lined | Unlined |
| Volume Options? | None | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | None | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) |
| Rubber Type | Vibram XS Grip | Vibram XS Edge, Vibram XS Grip2 | Vibram XS Edge | CAT rubber 1.5 | Vibram XS Edge |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | 3.5 mm | 3.5 mm forefoot 2 mm heel |
4 mm | 4 mm | 5 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
The thought of torquing your foot into some oddly shaped, downturned climbing shoe isn't anyone's idea of a good time. But with the right fit, even a tight shoe can feel comfy. The upper materials on the Mastia are softer than those on many other shoes we tested and conform better to our feet. The mesh liner that sits over the instep also helps reduce the chances of instep pain.
Even though the Mastia is more comfortable than other high-performance shoes, it's no slouch. Like other aggressively shaped bouldering shoes, it does a particularly good job of blending the ability to smear and pull, which is always helpful on steep problems.
Dislikes
Compared to similar shoes, the Mastia felt slightly less precise and sensitive. We didn't notice it as much climbing outdoors, but when we took these shoes into the gym, the lack of sensitivity was more noticeable on slippery artificial holds.
That said, this likely isn't the best choice for an “all-around” outdoor shoe. The Mastia is a bit too downturned for slab climbing, and not quite rigid enough to stand on small holds on a vertical wall. Climbers looking for a crack climbing shoe should surely turn the other way, as the soft and supple uppers offer little protection against torquing your foot into cracks.
Should You Buy the Tenaya Mastia?
It's a comfortable alternative to the usual crop of award-winning shoes from major brands, and performs best on overhanging sport climbs and boulders. Comfort is really what makes the Mastia stand out – our feet were happy for long sessions working on boulder projects. If you're specifically looking for a new bouldering shoe, it's worth popping the Mastia on your foot to see if it works as well for you as it did for us.
What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
The Mastia is a great shoe; we just think it misses the mark ever so slightly in terms of precision and sensitivity compared to other top shoes. The La Sportiva Solution and Scarpa Instinct VS are both perennial favorites for outdoor bouldering. If you want something a bit softer for gym climbing, check out the Scarpa Drago.











