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Whether you're just starting out in the gym, moving into roped climbing outdoors, or need to replace an old, tattered pair, every climber needs a quality pair of shoes. For the beginner, we'll point you toward the best bang for your buck – a durable pair that will help you progress. For the veteran climber, we highlight our top picks for specific uses.
For a first-time buyer, the Evolv Defy Lace is the perfect shoe to take you from the gym to the crag. It's flat and comfortable – much like the shoes you're likely renting – but its snug fit and sticky rubber make for a big step up in performance.
If you're hoping to start climbing outdoors, specifically the La Sportiva Finale is just as comfortable and affordable as the Defy Lace. But it's a bit stiffer, making it the better option for climbing slabs and vertical rock.
For the experienced climber focused on bouldering and modern sport climbing, the La Sportiva Skwama thrives on overhung routes. It's a flexible, sensitive slipper, with toes just stiff enough to stand on tiny edges. Its fit is even a bit more accommodating than most La Sportiva shoes – or other high-performance shoes, for that matter – thanks to a relatively broad toe box.
If you love long routes, the La Sportiva Katana Lace is our favorite for climbers who split their time between sport and trad climbing. Blending a pointy, precise toe with edging power, it's a comfortable, versatile shoe well-suited for any type of roped climbing.
Our team of certified rock guides and professional rescuers has tested more than 85 shoes over the past decade. For this review, we purchased and tested 20 of the best climbing shoes side by side, highlighting our expert recommendations for everything from gym and sport climbing to bouldering and long trad routes.
Editor's Note: We updated our review of climbing shoes on October 30, 2026, after adding new shoes from La Sportiva, Evolv, and Tenaya. We also retested the top-performing pairs and have a new lineup of award winners.
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size
Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes
Expected Stretch
0.5 - 1 EU Size
Downturn
Aggressive
Asymmetry
Moderate
Closure Style
Velcro
Climbers looking for a magic bullet for bouldering and hard sport climbing should put the La Sportiva Skwama at the top of their list. Going on a decade of production, we recently fell back in love with the Skwama – we almost forgot how versatile this shoe really is. While many soft slippers aren't stiff enough to stand on tiny edges, the Skwama is supportive while remaining sensitive and flexible for smearing. Some experienced climbers carry a whole bag of shoes to the crag, each one to solve a specific problem. For a simpler (and cheaper) approach, we contend the Skwama is a high-performance shoe that covers all your bases.
The Skwama may be exceptionally versatile, but it's still a relatively soft slipper. That's what many modern climbers want for bouldering and overhanging sport climbs, but if you regularly climb slabs and vertical rock, we think you'll be happier with a more supportive shoe like the equally versatile La Sportiva Katana Lace, or a similar but stiffer slipper like the La Sportiva Otaki. The Skwama has a relatively broad toe box that's a bit more comfortable than what you'll normally find in an aggressively shaped shoe. But if you know that the generally narrow fit of La Sportiva shoes is a challenge, check out the more accommodating but equally high-performing Evolv Shaman Trance
Pointy toe slots easily into thin cracks and pockets
Lace shoes are more comfortable in cracks than Velcro
CONS
A bit tight for all-day climbing
Stiffness sacrifices sensitivity
Pricey
SPECIFICATIONS
Sizing Recommendations
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes
Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size
Expected Stretch
0.5 - 1 EU size
Downturn
Moderate
Asymmetry
Moderate (sharp toe)
Closure Style
Lace
For climbers who spend a majority of their time on vertical faces, hard trad routes, and gently overhung sport climbs, the deservedly popular La Sportiva Katana Lace is a do-it-all workhorse. The subtle downturn, stiff rubber, and precise toe make this a shoe that can power down on small edges, yet it is still comfortable enough to wear on long marathon pitches. Our lead tester attests, “If I'm headed out for a day of challenging roped climbing in the Estes Valley, and I'm not exactly sure what a route is going to throw at me, the Katana Lace is often the first shoe I throw in my bag.”
The subtle downturn helps this shoe smear up routes, but it's far from a soft bouldering shoe. If your days are spent more often on overhanging routes, boulder problems, or in the gym, the Katana Lace's lack of aggressive downturn and sensitivity hinders performance for these styles of climbing. If this sounds like you, check out our favorite shoe for bouldering and sport climbing, the La Sportiva Skwama. But when it comes to more vertical pursuits, the La Sportiva Katana Lace is our go-to shoe.
Comfort Fit: up 1 EU size
Performance Fit: true to EU size
Expected Stretch
0 - 0.5 EU Size
Downturn
Flat
Asymmetry
Neutral
Closure Style
Lace
The Evolv Defy Lace is a staple among affordable climbing shoes – it's not just a good entry-level shoe; it's just a good shoe for anyone on a budget. In the past few years, Evolv has leaned into making shoes more comfortable for climbers with wider feet. The Defy Lace offers a comfortable, broad toe box, which is, simply put, less painful than other shoes we tested. This shoe comes with Evolv's super sticky proprietary rubber, which is a huge step up from the rubber on other shoes at this price point. “I remember the original Defy that I would use at the college climbing wall,” our lead tester reminisced. “I would borrow them for harder climbs because the rubber was stickier than my personal shoes.” The new Defy Lace carries on that same legacy.
It may be an excellent entry point into climbing, but there are, of course, limitations to its performance. The flat shape makes it challenging to grab holds with your toes, especially on overhanging walls. Gym climbers who gravitate towards the bouldering cave should consider a slight upgrade to the Ocun Bullit or La Sportiva Skwama Lite. The sticky rubber on the Defy Lace is also pretty soft, which can feel insecure on tiny edges, especially outdoors. If you're interested in climbing outdoors, specifically, we recommend the La Sportiva Finale over the Defy Lace – with a slightly stiffer rubber, it performs better on real rock. But the Defy Lace is particularly grippy on slippery plastic holds, which is why we think this is the perfect shoe for anyone getting into climbing by going to the gym.
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes
Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size
Expected Stretch
1 - 1.5 EU size
Downturn
Flat
Asymmetry
Moderate
Closure Style
Lace
You've been renting shoes at your local gym, and now you've decided that rock climbing is a sport you want to commit to – time to buy your first pair of shoes. The La Sportiva Finale is an excellent place to start. Its flat shape is comfortable enough for long sessions at the gym or long, multi-pitch routes. But unlike other entry-level shoes like the popular La Sportiva Tarantulace, the Finale has a moderately asymmetrical profile, with a slightly curved inward toe that makes it easier to grab small edges or tuck your toe into a pocket. With ample rubber underfoot, this shoe is more durable than some of the other, more premium options. The most common trait among new climbers is sloppy footwork, but as you refine your skills in the Finale, you don't have to worry about your new shoes wearing out.
While a shoe with a thinner outsole, like the Black Diamond Momentum, may make it a bit easier to feel that small divot or edge, its rounded toe box isn't nearly as precise as the Finale, and its rubber isn't as tacky. The other shoe that comes close to matching the Finale's performance is the Evolv Defy Lace – it also has a more precise, pointed toe and super-sticky rubber. When most people get into climbing, they're not quite sure where their path will take them – versatility is your friend when you're first starting out. For the adventurous type who wants to climb in the gym and on real rock, there's no better value than the La Sportiva Finale.
Comfort Fit: up 1 EU size
Performance Fit: true to EU size
Expected Stretch
0 - 0.5 EU size
Downturn
Aggressive
Asymmetry
High
Closure Style
Velcro
High-performance climbing shoes often mean pointed toe boxes. While this ubiquitous design helps push power through your big toe, that performance bump doesn't help if your feet hurt so badly you can't stand on them. Enter the Evolv Shaman Trance: an aggressively downturned shoe that doesn't cramp your toes. The broad toe box and soft, moldable uppers are a boon for climbers with wide feet, all without sacrificing performance. It still has plenty of power to push off small edges, plus super-sticky rubber that grips smeary footholds well. Our lead tester had this to say: “Long sessions on the training board usually leave my feet aching, but not in this shoe. I have a pretty narrow foot, but I still really enjoyed wearing the Shaman Trance.”
The Shaman Trance offers a nice balance of support and flexibility, which makes it surprisingly versatile for bouldering and sport climbing. But it's still a soft slipper, and the super-soft rubber rolled out from under our feet when we had to put all our weight on small edges. The rubber is so soft that we're actually a bit worried about its durability after extensive outdoor climbing. The La Sportiva Skwama is built around a slightly firmer rubber and has a toe box that's a bit wider than your average La Sportiva shoe. If you like the sound of a comfortable but aggressive shoe and your foot isn't that wide, it's also worth comparing the Shaman Trance against the similarly high-performing Tenaya Indalo.
The broad toe box of the Shaman Trance (right), compared to the pointier toe of the Skwama (left). (Many consider the Skwama one of La Sportiva's wider shoes.) Credit: Dom Rickicki
Comfort Fit: down 1 EU size
Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes
Expected Stretch
0 - 0.5 EU size
Downturn
Aggressive
Asymmetry
Moderate
Closure Style
Velcro
The La Sportiva Ondra Comp may just give you the leg up you need to send your gym projects or up your game in competitions. These shoes were designed in conjunction with Adam Ondra – widely regarded as the world's best climber – to perform on the Olympic stage. While most of us will never know what that feels like, we can all definitely benefit from the Ondra Comp in our daily sessions. Most gym shoes are ultra-soft, which makes them great for smearing on volumes and clawing into holds. But the Ondra Comp adds just a touch of stiffness under the toes for increased edging performance without sacrificing its ability to smear. Our lead tester points out, “I really appreciated the additional stiffness on small screw-on foot jibs in the gym, which helped me stand up on my toes for a bit of extra reach.”
The Ondra Comp has a slightly wider toe box than other La Sportiva shoes we've climbed in. While this adds a touch of comfort, it also makes this shoe feel slightly less precise, especially when compared to the Scarpa Drago, its closest competitor. The blunted toe box, combined with the overall lack of rigidity, also makes the Ondra Comp a poor performer for edging on rock. While we appreciated the Ondra Comp's surprising versatility for transitioning to bouldering outdoors, we often wanted the edging capability of a shoe like the Scarpa Instinct VS. But as a unique design that splits the difference between stiffness and sensitivity, the Ondra Comp is our new favorite gym shoe.
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size
Performance Fit: down 1 - 1.5 EU sizes
Expected Stretch
0.5 - 1 EU size
Downturn
Flat
Asymmetry
Moderate
Closure Style
Lace
Adorning the feet of climbers at trad areas around the country, the La Sportiva TC Pro is a beloved classic for good reason. These shoes were designed by climbing legend Tommy Caldwell for big wall free climbing in Yosemite, but you surely don't have to be sending 5.14 grades 2000 feet off the ground to enjoy their benefits. The TC Pro's flat-lasted sole and stiff flex make it a comfortable shoe for standing on your toes all day on big climbs. Beyond just comfort, the precise toe and narrow fit offer ample performance on the kind of slabby and vertical climbing you often find on big routes. But where our testers, and many other climbers, love this shoe most is for jamming cracks. The stiff last helps you feel secure as you twist your feet into fissures in the rock, and the high-top design provides ample ankle protection.
Flat soles and stiff flexes surely make crack climbing easier, but they don't give you much of an advantage in steep terrain – if you're looking for a bouldering or sport climbing shoe, you'll be much better served by the La Sportiva Skwama. The TC Pro is a classic for crack climbing, but it actually lacks a bit of precision for thin cracks – for this, we highly recommend the thinner Unparallel UpMocc. While the TC Pro fits our lead tester well, we know that its narrow last doesn't work for everyone. For a wider fit with similar performance, check out the Scarpa Generator Mid. But if the TC Pro fits, we can't recommend it enough for trad climbers. “From desert splitters, to El Cap, to laps in my backyard at Lumpy Ridge, the TC Pro has probably been the shoe I've climbed in the most,” admits our lead tester. “For day-to-day adventures, they've been a trusty companion for many years.”
Comfort Fit: 0.5 - 1 EU sizes
Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes
Expected Stretch
1 - 1.5 EU size
Downturn
Flat
Asymmetry
Neutral
Closure Style
Elastic
The Unparallel UpMocc is a minimalist, easygoing slipper that's sure to appeal to fans of this classic design. The ultra-sticky rubber inspires confidence for smearing up long slab pitches or gripping large volumes at the climbing gym. The UpMocc is a cult classic for desert crack climbers, but we think it's actually a great all-around shoe – you can choose to size it comfortably for moderate trad climbing or tightly for the gym. “While guiding, I often find people struggle the most with trusting their feet, and budget shoes do little to help solve that problem,” explains our lead tester. “The UpMocc changes this by giving you a shoe with sticky rubber and increased sensitivity, so that you can trust what you're standing on.”
While the soft, sticky rubber is one of the UpMocc's best attributes, it also makes this shoe poor at edging. The relatively soft rubber lacks the support to stand on small edges, and we often felt like we were going to roll off. This is just one reason we'd point newer climbers who haven't yet built up the foot strength to climb in a slipper like this toward the slightly stiffer La Sportiva Finale. Of course, high-performance edging shoes come at a price, and specialized shoes like the La Sportiva TC Pro are both less sensitive and more expensive than the UpMocc. While it may not be the same trad powerhouse as the TC Pro, for every other style of climbing, the UpMocc is a climbing shoe you can happily climb in all over the world.
The Unparallel UpMocc is soft and super sticky, which makes it great for smearing. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Product Comparison Table
Finding the right climbing shoe will help make climbing easier and more enjoyable. Credit: Dom Rickicki
How We Tested
We've been testing the best men's climbing shoes for over a decade. We purchase every shoe at retail, just like you, and send them to our team, who test them over many months. Our lead testers rely on friends and colleagues with a range of foot shapes to provide more accurate feedback on each shoe's comfort and fit. Our crew laced up or velcroed into these kicks at crags across the American West to evaluate each model on five performance metrics:
Leading our test team is Dom Rickicki. Dom is an AMGA-certified Rock and Alpine Guide with over a decade of climbing experience. Residing in the climbing epicenter of Estes Park, CO, he is surrounded by a storied climbing history, including some of the hardest boulder problems in the country, famous big walls like The Diamond, hard single-pitch test pieces, and classic granite trad routes. This setting inspires Dom to progress across all disciplines of climbing, and as a climber who takes his gear seriously, he enjoys dissecting the nuanced differences between climbing shoes.
Jack Cramer, as the previous tester, laid the foundation for this review. Jack is a veteran of the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, and like Dom, shares an affection for a variety of climbing disciplines – everything from climbing low boulders to massive big walls.
Meticulous side-by-side testing across disciplines helps us better understand the nuances of each pair.
Analysis and Test Results
We all want to send our projects, take on harder on-site climbs, and continue to progress as athletes. Being able to do this largely comes down to proper training and skill development because, safety gear aside, our sport isn't actually very gear-intensive. If we focus on just the physical act of climbing, our only 'gear' is chalk and shoes. Looking at climbing from this angle, we see that the single most important piece of gear we can buy is the one that goes on our feet. Outside of pure hard work, shoes are the one thing that will actually improve your performance. Our testers see this clearly – sometimes one shoe lets us easily climb a route, while another leaves us desperately overgripping. Choosing the right shoes for you can be a challenge, and our aim is to offer recommendations, based on comparative testing, to make that decision a bit easier.
Our favorite shoes are those that strike a good balance for their intended use. Manufacturers may claim that one design can do it all, but the reality is that all designs involve trade-offs. Different styles of climbing require different performance characteristics, and it's impossible to incorporate all of these characteristics into a single shoe. When looking at the relative scores in this review, notice that our favorite all-arounders rarely ever score a 10 in any one metric. Other shoes that score 9s or 10s in a single metric often come at the cost of a low score in another metric.
Worse Value
Better Value
What's the Best Value?
You may be asking yourself, “Is it worth it for me to pay the premium price for shoes?” That's a fair question. If you're just starting out, it's worth saving some money and opting for a shoe like the Evolv Defy Lace or the La Sportiva Finale. Most of us had pretty poor footwork as beginners, which quickly wore out a pair of shoes. Once you've burned through your first pair, you've probably climbed enough to justify buying a pair that's a bit more expensive and offers better performance.
A shoe like the Evolv Defy Lace won't break the bank, but will keep up with you as you progress through your first year of climbing. Credit: Dom Rickicki
We recognize that the climbing landscape is changing, and while most climbers start in the gym, many now focus entirely on gym climbing. Even if you are heading outdoors, many are sticking strictly to bouldering. We admit that this is a great way to keep costs to a minimum, since you don't need to invest in other gear. If you're climbing primarily in the gym and occasionally head outdoors to boulder, the Ocun Bullit is a comfortable option that climbs nearly as well as premium shoes at a fraction of the cost.
The Bullit is an affordable shoe that punches far above its class, especially for gym climbers. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Comfort
Comfort is pretty subjective and boils down to a few factors. If you line up a bunch of climbing shoes, you'll probably notice that none of them really look like feet, even though they should fit like a glove. A climbing shoe is designed to put our foot in an optimal position for climbing, not for walking around.
Side-by-side testing makes it obvious which shoes are more or less comfortable. Credit: Dom Rickicki
At the extreme end of the shape spectrum, a performance edging shoe may have a highly asymmetric shape with a high toe angle at the front, meant to curl your toes into a crimp. This shape drives a lot of power into your big toe, so you can stand on the smallest of holds.
You'll notice that our lead tester's naked foot looks very different from its shape in an aggressive shoe, like the Scarpa Drago. Credit: Dom Rickicki
On the other end, you have a crack climbing shoe that's flatter, stiffer, and more symmetrical, so that you can stand up on it when foot jamming. Outside of their symmetry and toe angle, the volume and width of a certain last (the shape of the shoe) may or may not work for your feet.
A flat shoe, like the TC Pro, is specifically designed to be worn on long multi-pitch routes and longer days in the alpine. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Sizing Your Shoes
Sizing climbing shoes can be a nightmare. Some companies intentionally calibrate a performance-climbing fit to correspond to standard street shoe sizes, while others run true to size. In the latter case, climbers have to size smaller than their street shoe size to get a performance fit. Still, other manufacturers seem to vary their sizing from model to model, making buying shoes online maddening.
Our lead tester has this to say: “When I try on shoes, I often find I hit a point where one size fits comfortably tight and the next size down fits uncomfortably tight, but not painful. Usually, I go with that uncomfortably tight pair, as most shoes break in by about half a size. This shoe will end up comfortably tight after some use, and my foot will fill the gaps without it being too baggy. If my foot doesn't fill those gaps without being painful, it usually means that this shoe won't work for my foot shape and I need to try a different model.”
If you are shopping online, find a retailer with a generous return policy so you can order several sizes and return whatever doesn't fit.
Increasing asymmetry, starting with the more neutral Unparallel UpMocc, then the La Sportiva TC Pro, and the most asymmetric Scarpa Instinct VS.
We primarily base our comfort scoring on a shoe's intended climbing style. A shoe geared more toward all-day climbing, like the La Sportiva Finale, should be comfortable for long periods on lower-angle rock. On the other hand, a shoe designed for steep terrain like the Ocun Bullit will likely not be comfortable for long days, but should be comfortable when pulling with your feet on severe overhangs or when heel- or toe-hooking.
While people mostly think of downturned shoes as less comfortable, this is not always the case. Mildly aggressive but solid all-around shoes like the La Sportiva Skwama strike a nice balance between the two ends of the comfort spectrum. Sized appropriately, these shoes should be comfy to climb in, but you still won't want to walk around in them. With super-supple upper materials and a particularly wide forefoot, the comfiest downturned shoe we've tested is the Shaman Trance. It's one of the very few aggressive shoes on the market that won't crunch your toes.
The Shaman Trance's broad toe box is unique among aggressive shoes. Combined with a highly adjustable strap system, it's one comfy climbing shoe. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Slipper-style shoes score high for comfort, but really, any flat-soled model made from stretchable leather that easily forms to your feet will be more comfortable than an aggressively downturned model. Additional materials can both aid and detract from a shoe's comfort, depending on how they're employed in the design. For example, the padded, stretchy tongue on the La Sportiva Katana Lace makes it feel comfortable out of the box and protects the top of your foot from tightly pulled laces. The new lace protector on the La Sportiva TC Pro, on the other hand, can create a rigid pressure point on your foot.
A bit of extra padding on the tongue of the Katana Lace really goes a long way, making this one of the most comfortable shoes we've ever worn. Credit: Jack Cramer
The lining, rubber layout, and upper material all greatly contribute to a shoe's comfort. In most high-end downturned shoes, the trend is to use microsuede (or similar materials) on the inside to reduce hot spots and ensure a snug fit. Top models, like the Scarpa Drago or Tenaya Indalo feature very soft linings that make these shoes quite comfortable relative to their aggressive shapes. These shoes also have rubber strategically laid out around the shoe so you can toe hook securely without any rubber edges digging into your feet.
The thick toe patch on the Instinct VS makes it particularly comfortable for toe hooking, a move that can be quite painful on shoes that aren't designed for it. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Smearing
As one of the most frequently used techniques in a climber's arsenal, smearing should be considered for every style of climber. To smear well, a shoe needs to flatten out over vague features on the rock, allowing you to feel small holds. The rubber also needs to be super sticky so it latches onto these small holds. Ideally, it also provides enough support to push off those same small holds or stand on them while placing trad gear.
To smear well, a shoe needs to be flat, like the Unparallel UpMocc. Or, if it is downturned, it must be soft enough to flatten out under pressure, like the Scarpa Drago. To feel small holds, a shoe must also be sensitive. Thinner rubber soles let you feel more of the rock, thereby improving a shoe's sensitivity.
The soft Drago allows you to press a bunch of sticky rubber onto flat holds for better purchase, even in overhung terrain. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Sensitivity is an amazing attribute for any shoe, unless you plan to be standing on your feet for extended periods, say, while placing trad gear. For trad climbers, wearing shoes with slightly thicker soles, like the Katana Lace, will stiffen them just enough to help prevent fatigue or pain.
Even though it's stiff in the forefoot, the midsole of the Katana Lace is just flexible enough to effectively smear on barely-there holds. Credit: Jack Cramer
Climbers looking to smear on large-volume holds in the gym often prefer a shoe like La Sportiva Ondra Comp, which excels at smearing thanks to a soft, sensitive flex profile. An aggressive downturn helps you climb steep terrain, where you need to curl your toes around holds. The La Sportiva Skwama, on the other hand, is still sensitive and sticky enough to smear well, but it's a bit stiffer in the toes, which helps you push off small holds on overhanging routes.
Softer shoes like the Ondra Comp easily flatten out and conform to large flat holds. Credit: Dom Rickicki
On the flip side, a climber looking to smear up long routes in Tuolumne would find these shoes too soft and downturned to spend extended time on their feet fiddling with small gear. Instead, they should look more towards something like the La Sportiva TC Pro, which is flat and stiff enough to help avoid fatigue.
The TC Pro is stiff enough to support you as you stand on your toes, yet flat and sticky enough to smear well up lower-angle rock. Credit: Dom Rickicki
As with any scoring metric, we try to put our smearing scores in context based on the shoe's intended use. The UpMocc and the Ondra Comp may score similarly for smearing, but they will be used in very different ways. The UpMocc is great for long slabs, whereas the Ondra Comp is better for smearing on gym holds.
Our individual gear reviews address whether a shoe is better for sustained smearing on long, slabby routes or for technical smearing on boulder problems. It is rare for a shoe to do both jobs well, so it is worth delving deeper into this question before purchasing a pair of shoes based solely on a single score.
For smearing up clean granite slabs, the soft and sticky UpMocc is a tester favorite. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Edging
The ability to stand on tiny edges is paramount to success on many routes, especially vertical to gently overhanging climbs. The more weight you can support with your feet, the less you will burden your throbbing forearms. What gives all the top-scoring shoes their edging prowess is a full-length sole of stiff Vibram XS Edge rubber and an asymmetric shape with a precise toe.
Let's look at toe angles: the higher volume toe box on the Boostic R (right) allows you to knuckle up your big toe, compared to the Miura VS (left), which is subtly flatter. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Rigid flexes and precise shapes make for excellent edging shoes, but these design features are all but nullified if your shoe is not sized tightly. Tight doesn't have to mean painful, but any air gaps or a sloppy fit will mean the shoe no longer supports your foot, and edging becomes far more challenging. Because you are putting so much pressure on a small part of your shoe, any poor fit will usually make the shoe feel like it is rolling off the hold. Our lead tester explains how he fits his shoes:
In general, I climb in an EU size 43 – these are the shoes I'll use for hard multi-pitch climbing and cragging. But if I'm working on a project that involves a lot of edging, I'll size down one half size – to an EU size 42.5 – for the fit I need for techy footwork.
The rigid structure is one of the reasons why the Boostic R is unmatched for edging performance alone. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Along with fit, consider the angle of your big toe in a shoe. In general, a higher angle on your big toe allows you to drive more power into a small foothold – but this performance point generally comes at the cost of comfort. Some climbers handle this well, while others don't, so personal preference plays a role.
Even though it has a flatter profile, the Katana Lace is at home on tiny edges, thanks to its stiff midsole. Credit: Jack Cramer
“For vertical walls, my preference is a flatter toe angle, like the Katana Lace or TC Pro,” shares our lead tester. “I have just never been able to get along with high toe angles unless the terrain is more overhung.” Of course, personal preferences will vary – we know plenty of climbers who prefer a higher-angled toe even on vertical terrain.
If you're new to climbing, we recommend starting conservatively with a shoe with a flatter toe angle while you get used to the fit of climbing shoes. It is worth remembering that if you size a shoe too tightly, the pain will simply make it unbearable to weight your foot, eliminating any edging performance you were trying to achieve.
Edging performance often comes at the cost of sensitivity, and shoes that excel at edging can feel pretty clunky, especially during break-in. The Scarpa Boostic R amazed us by providing support on the smallest holds while remaining sensitive enough to feel what you're trying to stand on. The shoe uses a stiff Flexan midsole and stiff XS Edge rubber, combined with Scarpa's V tension system, to maintain stiffness. What is so incredible about this shoe is that designers used this material in just the right doses, keeping the rubber thin under your big toe so you can actually feel the rock.
Whether we're bouldering or sport climbing, there is no other shoe we'd rather wear for technical face climbs than the Boostic R. Credit: Dom Rickicki
The Boostic R is a touch more sensitive than the La Sportiva Miura VS, which is, by classic standards, the best edging shoe on the market. Both of these shoes are highly precise, stiff, and asymmetric edging machines. It's worth noting that the Miura VS does have a slightly flatter toe angle than the Boostic R, which some folks may prefer for more than just edging projects.
The downturned profile of the Miura VS helps you pull into the wall and edge on small holds and pockets. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Pulling
As the angle of cliffs and boulders shifts to overhanging, we enter the realm of gymnastic climbing movements. To succeed in this terrain, we must use creative footwork to take any weight off our forearms to avoid the dreaded pump. We can think of our feet like hands here, curling our toes into holds to hold on, or employing heel-and-toe hooks to engage our larger leg muscles and pull into the wall.
To some extent, shoes designed for overhung terrain represent the pinnacle of performance in climbing shoe construction. In this world, you'll find a wide variety of models that highlight different performance characteristics, and it is not uncommon to see climbers carrying many different shoes to the crag to match the performance they need for a given climb. The Scarpa Drago is the best shoe for pure pulling in severely overhung terrain or for slippery plastic holds in the gym. But its soft flex can be a hindrance on less steep terrain, or when footholds are very small.
The additional stiffness under the toes of the Ondra Comp gives this shoe a slight advantage for pushing off holds you've pulled with your toes. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Shoes like the La Sportiva Skwama or La Sportiva Ondra Comp are our favorites – their soft flex and aggressive downturn shape help you claw into holds with talon-like precision. These two shoes use the stickier Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, rather than the harder XS Edge formula, which provides better friction on marginal holds. Both are also covered in ample sticky rubber across the toe and heel to increase your friction while creatively hooking.
For overhung climbs, finding ways to use your feet to take weight off your arms is paramount. The Drago makes geting creative easy. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Shoes like the La Sportiva Solution or the Scarpa Instinct VS offer a stiffer flex profile but still maintain a downturned shape. We prefer these shoes when a route also requires us to climb vertically, where we need to put more weight on our feet and use small edges on overhangs.
If you need to pull into the wall and stand up from a sit start, a shoe with a slightly stiffer profile, like the Instinct VS, may be the ticket. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Across the Western US, there are many limestone crags characterized by climbing on small pockets – including famed areas like Wild Iris, Ten Sleep, and Shelf Road. These tiny pockets challenge your footwork as you try to chisel your toe into them and pull your weight off your arms. The Solution, with its ultra-precise toe, is a popular shoe because it allows you to get into the hold while still providing enough support to put weight on your feet. You may also find that shoes we score high for edging, like the Muira VS or Katana Lace, work best here, as their ultra-precise toes help you dig into these pockets, and their downturn shape still allows you to pull your weight into the wall.
Even though fully overhanging isn't the ideal angle for the Katana Lace, it can still hold its own against softer shoes, making it much more versatile than other shoes specifically designed to pull. Credit: Jack Cramer
Depending on the situation, you may be fast and sloppy while pulling overhung moves. Sloppy isn't always bad, as sometimes we are onsight climbing, or we're just trying to move as quickly as possible. In general, a softer shoe like the Ocun Bullit forgives a bit of sloppiness, as you can just cover a hold with sticky rubber rather than carefully edging onto it.
The Ocun Bullit was an excellent training partner, giving us a bit more leeway as we figured out moves on new boulder problems. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Going even further down the ultra-specific rabbit hole, check out the La Sportiva No-Edge range of shoes, including the La Sportiva Mandala. The edgeless toe profile helps you paste even more rubber over a hold, which can be advantageous for on-sight climbing. Other times, we have the beta dialed in and can be ultra-precise with our movement. For efforts that require more precision, a stiffer shoe like the Mad Rock Drone 2 HV could be the ticket.
The unique no-edge toe on the Mandala allows you to quickly cover a hold with a lot of rubber. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Crack Climbing
For many climbers, crack climbing is a love-it-or-hate-it sort of affair. Ultimately, cracks tend to be the most striking lines up a face, but the technique required to climb them requires patience to learn and is often a painful affair until you get good at it. We have tested crack-climbing performance at various crags across the country, including Lumpy Ridge, Colorado; Indian Creek, Utah; and Vedauwoo, Wyoming. While we have tried our hardest to find a silver bullet for all the cracks at these famous crags, it is just not that simple.
Shoes like the La Sportiva TC Pro and Scarpa Generator Mid are what we often grab for our crack climbing objectives. Their stiffer flexes and flat toe profiles allow us to jam cracks more comfortably; added ankle protection helps when the cracks get wide, and their chiseled toes still allow us to get purchase when the cracks taper down to finger size. For all-around crack climbing, these are great shoes, but the world of crack climbing goes far deeper than just old-school-looking high tops.
Their high-top designs make crack-specific shoes stand apart from other climbing shoes on the market. From front to back, the Black Diamond Aspect Pro, La Sportiva TC Pro, and the Scarpa Generator Mid. Credit: Dom Rickicki
For the most technical of thin cracks, we tend to go for a softer shoe with a lower-volume toe, like the Unparallel UpMocc. These shoes are still flat and comfy for cracks, but their stickier, softer rubber is advantageous when you're trying to cram as much rubber as you can into a thin jam or a corner. For sandstone cracks, their stickier rubber is especially helpful on the featureless rock.
Even though the UpMocc has a blunted toe box, its soft, sticky rubber offers a huge advantage for jamming in thin cracks. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Watch videos of the hardest crack climbs in the US, and you may notice climbers wearing shoes that don't score super highly for crack climbing in this test. For these routes, climbers usually choose a shoe like the La Sportiva Solution or Scarpa Boostic R for their advantages on the face holds they're actually standing on – they generally just put up with jamming when they have to.
The La Sportiva TC Pro is our favorite shoe for pure cracks that are hand-size or wider. It's also one of the best for traditional multi-pitch adventures. Credit: Jack Cramer
While we wouldn't recommend specifically buying a pair of shoes like this for a crack climb, if you already own a pair, it can be worth experimenting. One shoe that strikes a nice balance for crack and face climbing is the La Sportiva Katana Lace. It does a great job of edging onto holds outside of the crack, but is still just flat enough to be comfortable while jamming, and its precise toe can be useful for thin jams.
For a combination of face holds and torquing jams, few shoes perform as well as the Katana Lace. Credit: Jack Cramer
Pain and discomfort are common complaints among beginner crack climbers, so if this includes you, it's worthwhile choosing a pair that won't add to your pain. Any shoe with an aggressive downturn will hurt, simply because the position it puts your foot in pushes your knuckled-up toes directly against the rock. The other thing we look at is the closure system. Velcro closures can create pressure points when you try to twist your foot into a crack. A lace-up shoe like the TC Pro or a slip-on model like the UpMocc will reduce these pressure points.
The type of rock may influence your shoe choice for crack climbing. On granite, the La Sportiva TC Pro is one of our favorites and it also seems to be the most popular model with the general public. Credit: Jack Cramer
It's worth noting that crack climbing is a specific skill that requires specific footwear. While you can get away with it in other shoes, we think having a good pair will help you enjoy crack climbing more and learn the skills faster.
Testing different shoes side-by-side to compare climbing prowess. The Generator Mid (bottom) is stiff enough to be comfortable in wider cracks, while the Black Diamond Aspect Pro (top) has a more precise toe. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Other Notable Climbing Shoes We've Tested
We work hard to curate a selection that represents a cross-section of the best climbing shoes on the market. But the modern landscape is full of so many options that, of course, we can't include every shoe in our review. Below is a list of other shoes we've tested recently that didn't quite make the cut when compared to similar options that performed better in one way or another.
Bouldering and Sport Climbing Shoes
La Sportiva Solution Comp – This shoe is a favorite of some of our testers over the original Solution for its narrower, more supple heel. It's also softer, which some may like for steeper routes or gym climbing. The only shoe that comes close to the pulling prowess of the Solution Comp is the Scarpa Drago, but the Drago also smears better.
Tenaya Mastia – If you've always found downturned shoes uncomfortable, the Mastia is worth checking out. The toe box is wider than other high-performance shoes, and the upper materials are super soft. It's very similar to the Tenaya Indalo, which, after testing the two side by side, pulls a bit better than the Mastia.
La Sportiva Mandala – The stiffest shoe in La Sportiva's no-edge line, we like the Mandala as a unique solution for tricky footholds or heel hooks. Where other no-edge shoes are quite soft, the Mandala offers more support for outdoor climbing.
Evolv Shaman – The Shaman is one of the stiffer bouldering shoes available, bridging steep-climbing shoes and edging specialists. Even though the extra support will help you power off tiny holds, we like the newer Shaman Trance, which greatly improves smearing performance.
Scarpa Chimera – According to Scarpa, this shoe is closely related to their Furia family of shoes, which are specifically designed for an ultralight, glove-like fit. The Chimera performs almost like a stiffer Drago, however, we ultimately preferred the Drago for its softer, more sensitive feel.
The Solution comp is seen on the feet of the worlds best climbers, and is a tester favorite. Credit: Jack Cramer
Edging and Face Climbing Shoes
La Sportiva Miura – A tried-and-true classic that has been on climbers' feet for many hard ascents over the last two decades. Its lace-up closure and asymmetric shape deliver high precision on your hardest technical climbs. However, if we're going to jam our feet into stiff shoes for an edging project, we'll opt for the Miura VS, the Velcro version, or the even more powerful Scarpa Boostic R.
La Sportiva Miura VS – The tuned-up version of the classic La Sportiva Miura, the Miura VS is more downturned and more asymmetric, making it an edging beast. It is still a top-scoring edging shoe, but it comes at the cost of sensitivity and smearing performance – we'd opt for the more modern, and even more powerful Scarpa Boostic R.
Scarpa Instinct Lace – This lace-up shoe with a full-length rubber outsole provides stiff edging performance. Climbers with wider feet will likely prefer this shoe's wider last, while those with average or narrow feet will likely prefer the La Sportiva Katana Lace.
Most people think of face climbing shoes for roped climbing, but stiff shoes can also give you a leg up in areas that demand precise footwork, like the Buttermilks. Credit: Matt Bento
Crack and Trad Climbing Shoes
Black Diamond Aspect Pro – This specialty shoe feels like what the BD design team created for their weekend climbing trips in the Utah desert. The super-slender toe is the thinnest of any high-top we have tested and jams a full cam size smaller than classic crack shoes like the La Sportiva TC Pro. Even though this shoe has stickier rubber than the TC – which is reassuring on featureless sandstone – it doesn't edge nearly as well, which is a problem.
Black Diamond Aspect - Unlike the high-top Aspect Pro, this is a low-top trad shoe with stiff flex. It offers well-balanced performance for crack climbing at a very reasonable price. While it's more of a specialty shoe, we could crack climb just as well in the more versatile Unparallel UpMocc, and use that shoe for sport climbing and bouldering, too.
For long technical alpine routes, the Black Diamond Aspect Pro's softer rubber feels less clunky on a cold morning. Credit: Julia Cassou
Budget Shoes
La Sportiva Kubo – This shoe is designed for the intermediate crowd looking for a higher-performing, but still relatively affordable climbing shoe. It fits this mold perfectly, but we think you'll be happier with the La Sportiva Skwama Lite instead.
Scarpa Arpia – Scarpa's answer to the same question – a slightly higher-performing shoe at a reasonable price. It's not too aggressive, not too flat, but strikes a nice middle ground, especially for folks with wider feet. But if that sounds like you, you'll likely be better off with the Evolv Defy Lace.
Five Ten NIAD VCS – The original version of this shoe was a popular shoe for decades. After Adidas acquired Five Ten, many of the original designers left to form Unparallel – fans of the Anasazi VCS, we recommend you look at the Unparallel UpMocc instead of the newest version of the NIAD VCS.
The Ocun Bullit punches way above its price for performance on steep rock and boulders. Credit: Dom Rickicki
Conclusion
We'd like to offer a disclaimer to close out: product reviews are inherently subjective, especially for rock climbing shoes. Our assessment of each shoe is largely contingent on the shape of our testers' feet, the type of rock we climbed, and how tightly we sized them. Our advice is built on the first-hand experience of multiple climbers over many months of climbing, but everyone's feet are different. While comfort is obviously important, we wanted to focus on how these shoes perform the moves and techniques that climbers use most frequently. A shoe's performance in these metrics helps determine whether it is a great climbing shoe. Ultimately, your perfect pair of shoes needs to fit well first and match your goals second.
Whether you're new to the sport or a seasoned veteran, we've tested everything you need to get out climbing, including climbing ropes, harnesses, top-rated belay devices, and quickdraws. We've even pitted different climbing chalks against each other to try and determine the best performers. From boulders to big walls, our roundup of the best climbing gear on the market has something for everyone.
