The 5 Best Climbing Belay Devices of 2024

Best Overall for Experienced Climbers

Petzl GriGri

Weight: 6.3 ounces | Type: Active assisted braking

The latest rendition of the Petzl GriGri features a few minor tweaks that help it retain its status as the most popular assisted braking device. The cam doesn't engage as quickly, making it easier to pay out slack. The lowering lever now has a bit more resistance, making it slightly harder to open fully. Best of all, this device now accommodates ropes down to 8.5mm, keeping pace with the skinniest single rope on the market. It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying the follower directly off the anchor.

While the GriGri is far and away the most popular active assisted braking device on the market, it still comes with the notable downside that the user is tempted to hold the braking cam in an open position to quickly feed slack to a leader. This temptation to quickly let out slack has inspired the invention of other devices that don't require breaking the rules to feed out slack quickly. It is relatively easy to “push” rope through the device in the same way slack is fed with a tube-style device, like the Black Diamond ATC Guide, although the cam must still be overridden to feed out an armload or two in a hurry. Still, it isn't that hard to master the GriGri's technique, and for experienced users and regular climbers, this device is still our top choice.

Read more: Petzl GriGri review

Best for New Climbers

Petzl GriGri+

Weight: 7.1 ounces | Type: Active assisted braking

The GriGri+ is very similar to the standard GriGri, but boasts several safety features not found on that model to reduce the risk of belayer error accidents. The first is that the handle has an anti-panic feature. When lowering a climber, the belayer uses a lever to release the grip on the rope. If the lever is opened too far, the GriGri+ handle automatically disengages, releasing the tension on the cam and stopping the lower. The sweet spot for a smooth, not-too-slow lower can be hard to find at first, but it's much harder to drop a climber while lowering with a properly loaded GriGri+ than with other devices. The second feature is a toggle switch between lead and top-rope modes, which adjusts the spring tension on the cam inside the device. In top-rope mode, the cam grips far more tightly, while in lead mode, it allows for an easier time paying out slack.

However, the features of the GriGri+ can be irritating to work around if you are already accustomed to using a GriGri. It is especially easy to forget to switch from top-rope to lead, resulting in a frustrated leader as they get continually short-roped. Furthermore, the new features don't eliminate the need to lock out the cam while feeding slack to a leader, a potentially dangerous moment, especially when close to the ground. This belay device is also heavier and pricer than the standard model. We believe that all climbers can benefit from knowing how to use a GriGri, and we recommend the GriGri+ for users searching for added security, or newer climbers still mastering the technique.

Read more: Petzl GriGri+ review

Best Bang for the Buck

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Weight: 3.2 ounces | Type: Auto-block tube

For climbers on a budget, and especially those who participate in a wide variety of climbing disciplines, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. This device offers the same functions as simple tube devices for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for belaying followers directly from an anchor. It uses the simplest, easiest to learn, and most commonly taught belay style for paying out slack while lead belaying, negating the need to learn a new style based on the belay device. It also easily accommodates two strands of rope, making it ideal for rappelling or belaying two followers at once. This device is a great value if you ever intend to do any multi-pitching.

The only real downside to the ATC Guide is that it lacks braking assistance. Assisted braking devices (ABDs) reduce the probability of dropping a lead climber while making it much easier to lock off and hold someone for long periods. Some passive assist devices are barely more costly, making them a compelling alternative. Also, this model is a little heavier than its closest and most popular competitor, the Petzl Reverso. Still, we think the extra durability is worth the tradeoff of adding a couple of tenths of an ounce. If you want a versatile device at an excellent price, we recommend the ATC Guide.

Read more: Black Diamond ATC Guide review

Excellent for Lead Belaying

Petzl Neox

Weight: 8.3 ounces | Type: Active assisted braking

The Petzl Neox is a game-changer for lead belaying. It includes all of the design and safety features of the standard GriGri, plus it adds a low-friction wheel that makes it super easy to feed out slack. Belayers can now use a standard belay technique to give rope to the leader without having to defeat the cam that pinches the rope in the event of a fall. The result is a safer-feeling device that will make belayers and leaders a lot happier. Say goodbye to short-roping your leader and holding the device in the open position. This device is the best for belaying a leader, by far. If you spend a lot of time belaying lead climbers, or if your belayer is constantly short-toping you, this device is a must-have.

The downsides include a heavy, bulky footprint, and the lack of versatility for belaying a follower from above. Sure, the Neox can be used in auto-block mode, but the spring-loaded wheel releases the tension on the rope when the slack is pulled tight. This produces an uncomfortable feeling for the top belayer, and although it will still catch a fall, this device is best suited for use on the ground at the single-pitch crag. If you want more versatility for belaying from above, the tried-and-true Petzl GriGri is a good option, and the GriGri+ has more safety features, but neither feed slack to the leader with as much simplicity.

Read more: Petzl Neox review

Most Versatile

Edelrid Giga Jul

Weight: 4.3 ounces | Type: Passive Assisted braking with Auto-block

The Edelrid Giga Jul combines the security and bite of a passive ABD with the reduced weight and versatility of a tube-style auto-blocking device. The result is the most versatile device in our review, and also one of the best values. The device can be used for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and rappelling, all with the added security of a brake assist in case the climber is compromised by rock or icefall, a medical emergency, or burnt hands. It provides this brake assist with minimal adjustments to the standard belaying and rappelling technique that climbers are taught as beginners. And, it can belay the follower(s) directly off an anchor in auto-block configuration.

On the downside, paying out slack to a leader and rappelling in assist mode both require pulling up gently on a green loop that prevents the device from biting the rope. This motion is relatively easy but can get tiring over time since it requires the user to pull up and away from the body and hold it there when rappelling or lowering. Also, the slider that switches between manual and brake-assist modes can be confusing when getting to know the device. It isn't difficult, but you can't just hand the device off to your partner if they don't know how to use it correctly. Still, this device combines the functionality of ABDs with the low weight and versatility of auto-blocking tube devices, making it a great choice for difficult multi-pitch and alpine climbs. It also provides a fantastic value for anyone who wants these advanced functions.

Read more: Edelrid Giga Jul review

Best for Left-Handed Belayers

Edelrid Pinch

Weight: 8.3 ounces | Type: Active ABD

Advancements are slow in the active ABD world, but the Edelrid Pinch deserves praise for being much easier for left-handed users than other options on the market. Similar to other active ABDs, it uses a camming mechanism to pinch the rope to arrest a lead fall. It uses the same belay technique as the GriGri and GriGri+, which is nice because users don't have to learn a new technique if switching their allegiance. Also of note, this device can be connected directly to the belay loop or anchor, which eliminates the possibility of cross-loading a carabiner. The low-profile width means that the same active-ABD belay technique can be used ambidextrously.

After much use, our testers have decided that this device doesn't feel too different than the GriGri. If you close your eyes and belay normally, it's hard to tell the difference. The carabiner-free attachment system is more gimmicky than helpful, most of the time, and it's certainly not a reason to buy this device over other options. There is perhaps a bit more friction when feeding slack to a leader and when pulling in slack during top-rope belays, which can add a nice bite, or add annoying short-roping potential, depending on your point of view. Another downside is that the device doesn't tend to bite the rope while pulling slack in auto-block mode (belaying from above). Overall, we think most users will be happier with the Petzl GriGri, GriGri+, or Neox, but left-handed users should opt for this device.

Compare Products

Compare select up to 5 products to compare

	Score	Product	Price
	79	Petzl GriGri Best Overall for Experienced Climbers	$110
	79	Petzl GriGri+ Best for New Climbers	$140
	75	Edelrid Giga Jul Most Versatile	$60
	75	Petzl Neox Excellent for Lead Belaying	$150
	73	Black Diamond ATC Guide Best Bang for the Buck	$35
	72	Petzl Reverso	$40
	72	Trango Vergo	$100
	71	DMM Pivot	$37
	68	Wild Country Revo	$145
	68	Edelrid Pinch	$120
	68	Camp Matik	$220
	67	Black Diamond ATC XP	$25
	67	Petzl Verso	$25
	66	Edelrid Mega Jul	$50
	56	Mammut Smart 2.0	$45
	56	Black Diamond ATC Pilot	$50
	53	Climbing Technology ClickUp +.	$100

How We Test Climbing Belay Devices

Every pitch climbed requires a belay device, and since our testers are climbing addicts and mountain professionals, belay device testing is happening continuously. We stay up to date on the newest product releases, purchasing them and putting them through a vigorous testing process. Each device tested for this review was thoroughly researched before being put into use, and this often involves watching YouTube and demonstration videos to grasp the proper technique for belaying with newfangled devices. We then practice our techniques before hitting the crag and belaying a minimum of 30 pitches with each device (but usually way more) before publishing our findings. We also teach other climbers and partners how to use each device and watch them learn and belay to notice problems, flaws, or benefits that we may have missed. The result is expert-tested reviews and recommendations, rather than just a listing of a product's stats that anyone can glean off the internet.

Our belay device testing is divided into five different metrics:

• Catch and Bite (30% of overall score weighting)

• Lowering and Rappelling (30% weighting)

• Feeding Slack (20% weighting)

• Weight and Bulk (10% weighting)

• Auto Block (10% weighting)

Why Trust GearLab

This review is led by Jeff Dobronyi, a Senior Reviewer at OutdoorGearLab since 2018. Jeff is an IFMGA Mountain Guide and spends over 100 days a year guiding climbers around the world, from his home in western Colorado to the Alps and beyond. He uses each belay device extensively while climbing and guiding single-pitch cragging days in Indian Creek, multi-pitch climbs in Eldorado Canyon and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and alpine climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park and Chamonix. Our other reviews are all life-long climbers who spend their days ticking off classic routes from Smith Rock to the High Sierra to the Gunks to the caves of Greece and Spain.

Analysis and Test Results

We begin the testing process by using each device for months in the field, and then finish up by comparative testing each device side-by-side, rating them on five metrics (catch and bite, feeding slack, rappelling and lowering, weight and bulk, and auto block) based upon how they perform compared to the competition. The devices featured here are of three main styles: active assist braking, passive assist braking, and tube-style, so be sure to identify your own needs to help you narrow down the selection.

Value

Belay device prices range from dirt cheap to surprisingly expensive. The low end of the price range is populated by tube-style devices, whereas the more expensive models are the active assisted braking devices. If you're looking for the best value out there, we've picked out a few that we consider exceptional. To begin, the Black Diamond ATC XP can't be beaten on price and is a solid and reliable option, although we recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide as another great budget buy because it is far more versatile with an auto-block function at only a tiny increase in cost. Although they are expensive, high scorers like the GriGri and Trango Vergo offer a great value due to their incredible performance catching leader falls. The Edelrid Giga Jul is remarkable in that it offers all three types of devices (tube-style, auto-blocking, and assisted-braking) in one.

Catch and Bite

This category rates how easy it is to catch a fall with a belay device. Of course, every belay device here will catch a fall by arresting the rope provided they are used with proper technique, but due to their unique designs, the assisted braking devices tend to do this with more reliability and far less effort than a standard tube-style device. For instance, to catch a fall with a tube-style device, the belayer must hold the rope down by their hip while also gripping tightly to the rope to keep it from slipping. With an assisted braking device, whether passive or active, the slightest amount of gripping pressure on the brake strand will provide the tension and friction required to lock up the device, holding the climber in place. This brings up another important consideration in this category: how easy it is to hold a climber locked off. The assisted braking devices are supreme once again, and the ability to easily hold a climber for an unlimited amount of time with little to no effort is the number one argument for using one of these devices while climbing.

The active-assisted belay devices that employ a spring-loaded cam to pinch the rope when under tension provide the easiest and most reliable catch. Due to their cam, they even allow a small amount of rope (a couple of inches at most) to slip through the device as they lock, which increases the dynamic aspect of a catch, reducing the forces on the climber, rope, and gear slightly. The devices that reliably catch like this are the Camp Matik, GriGri and GriGri+, Petzl Neox, and Trango Vergo. Most of these devices are capable of handling ropes down to 8.5mm.

The second best for catch are the “passive” assisted braking devices, like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Edelrid Giga Jul, Mammut Smart 2.0, and Black Diamond ATC Pilot. In “active” models, braking is created by a pinching mechanism inside the device itself; “passive” models rely on a pinch between the carabiner and the device to hold the rope. Passive models are thus dependent on this carabiner, and its shape and size can have a significant impact on performance (up to 35% differences in our tests). Always use these devices with the manufacturer-recommended carabiner whenever possible (usually an HMS type with a round stock), and expect that any deviation (along with changes in rope diameter) will affect its performance.

The standard tube-style devices, like the Black Diamond ATC models, the DMM Pivot, and the Petzl Verso and Reverso, scored the lowest compared to the rest of the field. These devices require substantial strength on the brake hand when catching a fall and continued lock-off when top rope belaying or belaying your second.

Lowering and Rappelling

Catching a falling climber is only half the duty of a belay device; getting that climber safely back to the ground is the other. That's where lowering and rappelling come in. Some of the devices we tested began with an automatic advantage in this category — the ability to rappel two strands. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, DMM Pivot, and Edelrid Giga and Mega Juls. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active ABDs can rappel on two strands of rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. Consider these models only for single-pitch routes or multi-pitches in combination with a two-strand device.

The difference in lowering performance comes down to the smoothness of the action and the range it is good for. We saw the most consistent lowering performance from the tube devices, as well as the Wild Country Revo. Although the assisted braking models all provide the ability to lock the device and rest hands-free, they often exhibit narrow ranges and jerkiness when lowering.

The best assisted-braking devices for lowering are the Petzl GriGri, Petzl Neox, and Edelrid Pinch. The two Petzl units don't have anti-panic mechanisms, which often get in the way of a smooth lower. The GriGri+,Camp Matik, and Edelrid Pinch all have anti-panic levers. If you pull back too far on the lever, the unit locks up, but this wasn't as much of a problem with the Pinch. While this mechanism is useful in preventing someone from accidentally dropping themselves or their partner, it creates a narrow window between lowering and locking up. The Matik locked up more than the GriGri+, and we barely noticed this problem with the Pinch, but all require a deft hand that does improve with practice.

The passive assisted-braking devices have some of the poorest lowering action. We often find them jerky when compared to tube devices because you need to find the sweet spot in the rotation of the device to allow for a smooth lower. However, because you need to push and pull on them quite a bit to lower your partner, they are typically safer to use and lock up as soon as you let them rotate back into the braking position.

Feeding Slack

Feeding slack is an important component of belaying a lead climber. This requires more attentiveness and rope management skills than a top-rope belay. The ability to take and give slack quickly and precisely is vital, especially when close to the ground. The most important thing to consider is how easily and safely you can feed slack without the device locking up. Devices that lock up on a hair trigger are very difficult to master and are the cause of many lead climbers' frustrations as they are continuously short-roped by their belayer. A secondary consideration, since we are all guilty of making mistakes, is how easy the device is to release once locked up so that slack can be fed quickly again. If the device locks up when a climber is desperately yanking rope, being able to release it quickly can make the difference between success or an extra-long fall.

Tube devices like the ATC Guide, DMM Pivot, and Petzl Verso require the simplest motion to take or feed slack and receive the best scores in this category because of it. They are also the easiest to learn how to use and are most climbers' introduction to belaying. While not technically a tube, the Wild Country Revo functions just like one and is by far the best at smoothly paying out slack. This is due to the wheel that the rope runs over, which greatly minimizes friction. It doesn't include any breaking assist that might accidentally lock, but it does have an emergency lock-up feature that we were never able to trigger while simply feeding out slack.

Results were a bit mixed with the passive and active-assisted braking devices. Among the passive devices, we like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Edelrid Giga Jul, and the Mammut Smart 2.0 the best. They use similar movements to tubes but require upward pressure on a handle or loop to disable the device's locking mechanism when feeding out slack quickly. The Smart 2.0 needs only a little upward pressure to prevent it from locking, whereas the Black Diamond ATC Pilot requires substantial and continuous pressure.

Among the active assisted braking devices, the Petzl Neox is the clear winner. A rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the camming mechanism, preventing the rope from pulling on the cam and pinching prematurely. This solves the major problem with active ABDs, which is that the belayer has to defeat the pinching cam to feed slack quickly. Thus, the Neox is the best active ABD for belaying a leader. The Petzl GriGri and GriGri+ feed slack well with little friction but to do so, the cam has to be defeated. The Edelrid Pinch feeds slack with similar ease, and it's especially easy for lefties to use. These devices can also be hard to master for people with small hands, which may include children. The Camp Matik uses a unique “pistol” grip design, which does take some getting used to if you've belayed differently for years.

Weight and Bulk

Like all climbing gear these days, belay devices are getting lighter and smaller. Weights range from 2.0 to 13.0 ounces. Whether the weight is a critical component for you depends on a few things: whether or not you are climbing with your device on your harness, and whether or not you appreciate the “training” weight in your backpack.

When it comes to something you're likely to carry on your harness, the Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. The BD ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk. Among the active assist braking devices, the GriGri is the lightest, but the Edelrid Giga Jul's passive braking assist is lighter and more versatile while providing a similarly secure catch.

Auto Block

Belaying a follower or two directly off the anchor is a convenient way to ensure a reliable catch and a comfortable belay during multi-pitch climbing. Most of the devices we have tested offer some way to do so, and we have noted this in the specs table in the chart at the top of this article. Unfortunately, though, belaying in this manner can create substantial friction with many of the device designs that can exhaust a belayer's shoulders and elbows, and in extreme usage, like for mountain guides, can lead to tendonitis.

Our grading for this metric considers whether a device is capable of being used this way or not and whether it is easy to set up or very confusing and challenging. Some of the devices require being set up in a way that is not at all intuitive. Secondly, we assess for versatility, scoring models that can accommodate two ropes a bit higher. Lastly, we took into consideration the amount of friction in the system, which affects the amount of energy it takes to belay in this manner, with the smoother devices being preferred.

When assessing for friction, we noticed how each device felt while out on multi-pitch climbs, but also wanted some more concrete results, so we compared one device after another on a mock anchor, noticing the differences in the amount of friction we had to overcome to feed the rope through the auto-blocked device. Both of the GriGri models performed especially well in this regard, as did the Camp Matik. In our comparative testing, many of the most popular and commonly used auto-block tubes also had some of the highest amounts of friction to overcome, which is slightly disappointing. The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Giga Jul, and worse still is the Mammut Smart 2.0.

Conclusion

Choosing a belay device is not an easy task, but the first step we recommend is assessing your own needs. Next, consider what techniques you already know and what techniques or resources you have for learning a new belay style. Answering these questions will help you determine if the investment in an active assist device is worth it, or whether you might prefer a passive assist device instead. Be sure to pick up a tube-style device if you plan to rappel or multi-pitch climb. We hope the information provided has been helpful in your search.