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The perfect climbing rope balances weight, durability, and handling for the specific routes you frequent, inspiring the confidence you need to commit and send.
Our favorite rope, and the one we grab for most climbs is the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic. It is incredibly durable and handles impeccably, whether you're at the gym or on a multi-pitch climb.
If you're shopping on a budget, the Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic also offers great handling and durability at a lower price.
If durability is your top priority, get the Sterling VR9 9.8. It's our go-to workhorse for high-volume laps at the crag.
Over the past decade, we've tested more than 45 climbing ropes, pitting the 16 best models head-to-head across local sport crags, classic multi-pitch routes, and alpine walls. Every recommendation is backed by rigorous side-by-side testing—and plenty of rope-stretching whippers from testers never shy about taking a fall.
Editor's Note: Our climbing rope review was updated on August 19, 2026, to include new designs from Sterling, Black Diamond, Mammut, and Edelrid.
Quick Picks
Here's a quick list of our favorite Climbing Rope recommendations.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic takes the cake again this year, thanks to its superior handling, impressive durability, and versatility across nearly every climbing discipline. This rope handles like a dream right out of the factory and doesn't stiffen or soften over time. Our lead tester noted, “I found it thick enough to ease my mind when climbing high above ground.” The sheath is durable, adding to the lifespan of your investment. And this rope can be used for every type of climbing, from the gym to the crag to multi-pitch climbs. It even costs less than most of the competition. For most users, it's the perfect rope.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
60
Diameter (mm)
9.5
Weight (g/m)
59
Lengths Available (m)
50, 60, 70, 80
Dry Coating Option
Classic, Dry
Our complaints are few, but at 59 grams per meter and 9.5 millimeters in diameter, there are lighter and skinnier ropes out there. If you are looking for a specialized rope for hard multi-pitch and alpine climbing, you are better off with a thinner and lighter rope. If you don't opt for their bi-pattern version, you simply get a dyed middle mark, and we noticed that it wears off fairly quickly. Overall, this is an excellent all-around rope that can handle any type of cragging and should last for a long time.
The Crag Classic is such a versatile design that its consistently scored at the top of our list for years thanks to exceptional durability and handling for a variety of objectives. We enjoyed bringing it into the mountains for a big wall first ascent and were confident to fix and follow on the durable sheath. Credit: Trish Matheny
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic is an eco-friendly version of our Editors' Choice, and comes at an even lower price. Besides the lack of a bi-pattern option, this rope performs the same as the Crag Classic. The main difference here is the use of leftover yarns in the sheath, which means that less plastic goes to the landfill from the production of Mammut's other ropes. This rope handles easily, last a long time, and is highly versatile across a wide range of climbing styles from big walls to sport leads.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
70
Diameter (mm)
9.5
Weight (g/m)
58
Lengths Available (m)
40, 50, 60, 70, 80
Dry Coating Option
Classic, Dry
One aspect to consider is this rope leans toward the heavier side. “I wouldn't recommend it to climbers heading deep into the backcountry for big alpine climbs,” our lead tester stated. Even for hard multi-pitch routes, we'd recommend climbers grab a lighter rope. And, since the rope is constructed with leftover yarns from other production runs, you don't get to choose your exact color, and no bi-pattern sheath is available. If a bi-pattern rope is a must, the Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is the one to reach for. Minor drawbacks aside, the Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic is the best bargain we've tested for a quality rock climbing rope.
The Sterling VR9 9.8 is our favorite rope when it comes to heavy use, whether you're working on a single pitch project, top-roping to dial technique, or simply need a rope that can withstand tons of mileage. The thicker 9.8mm diameter somewhat limits its overall versatility, but the thickness, combined with a sheath-protective DryCore treatment, extends the life of your investment. If you're looking for a rope that endures the dust, dirt, and sand at crags like Indian Creek in Utah or the Owens River Gorge of California, this is the one. In fact, after a weeklong sport climbing bender that involved tons of single pitch leads, top-ropes, and whippers, the rope still looked brand new. We were also pleasantly surprised by how easily the thicker diameter handled, whether clipping biners or feeding out slack with a GriGri. It's also available in lengths ranging from 40-80 meters, so you can select the best option for your local area.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
70
Diameter (mm)
9.8
Weight (g/m)
62
Lengths Available (m)
40,50,60,70
Dry Coating Option
DryCore Technology
While Sterling advertises this rope as a multi-pitch design, we don't recommend it unless your approach is super short or you need a tough design for a big wall route. The tradeoff for that durable performance is the heavier weight, which can add up if you're hiking several miles to your objective. For climbers after a thinner diameter that's better-suited to multi-pitch and alpine objectives. We even have friends who swear by these thinner designs for sending their single-pitch projects, as the lightweight construction may give them that extra advantage when clipping chains. But if you need a workhorse built to withstand use and abuse over many seasons, we highly recommend the Sterling VR9 9.8 as a durable addition to your quiver.
The Beal Opera has been a favorite rope of alpine climbers for years, and for good reason. This is the lightest single rope on the planet, at 48 grams per meter of length. This allows users to shave significant weight off their packs when hauling gear deep into the backcountry and up big approaches. In addition to the weight savings, this rope provides supple handling, a triple-use rating, excellent dry treatment options, and enough versatility to be used on multi-pitch climbs closer to civilization.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
60
Diameter (mm)
8.5
Weight (g/m)
48
Lengths Available (m)
50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200
Dry Coating Option
Dry Cover, Golden Dry
The biggest drawback with this rope is its lack of versatility. At 8.5 millimeters in diameter, it isn't useful for much besides alpine climbing and multi-pitch climbing. One tester remarked, “I think the smooth, easy handling is likely due to its thin diameter, so it can bend in ways that thicker ropes can't.” The skinny diameter produces more stretch than thicker ropes, meaning we can't recommend it for single-pitch and gym climbing. It also has less sheath material to absorb wear and tear. When we reserved this rope for alpine missions, it lasted a long time. But when we used it day after day at the crag during our intensive testing period, it wore out faster. If you are in the market for a rope for alpine climbing to supplement your crag rope, this is a great option.
The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS features a confidence-inspiring diameter, a clearly-defined middle mark, and an effective Xeros dry treatment, that make it worthy of the hefty price tag. The clearly-defined middle mark is a worthy investment for anyone who wants to increase safety and efficiency while rappelling a multi-pitch, communicating with their leader that it's time to build a belay, or simply lowering your buddy after they've quested on a long single pitch. Although the handling can feel a little stiff, we can appreciate the enhanced durability despite the thinner diameter. But if you're after a bi-pattern that has a more supple feel, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 is definitely worth checking out.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
70
Diameter (mm)
9.4
Weight (g/m)
57
Lengths Available (m)
40,60,70,80
Dry Coating Option
XEROS Dry Treatment (PFOA-free)
We also love the versatility of this design as the weight strikes the perfect balance between durability and thickness. We would't hesitate to hike this design into the mountains for a multi-pitch, take it to the sport crag, or even climb some ice since the Xeros dry treatment is so effective without that sticky and tacky feel. Perhaps our only complaint (beyond the stiff price tag) is that bi-pattern ropes need to be chopped evenly on both ends should you core shot your rope on one end after lots of big whippers. If you don't evenly chop the ends, the bi-pattern will be rendered useless. And despite the slightly stiffer handling, we think this rope is a great choice for a variety of climbing objectives. We also love that Sterling is committed to sustainable practices, as their rope manufacturing facility runs off of 100% renewable energy sources and also provides the ability to recycle your rope at the end of its life.
The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is a top-of-the-line bi-pattern design that handles a little stiff but features excellent durability and versatility for a variety of climbing objectives. Credit: Trish Matheny
The Beal Joker is our favorite rope for multi-pitch climbing thanks to its low weight, smooth sheath, and Unicore construction. From feeding slack to the leader on long, desperate pitches to pulling the rope easily through the device when belaying the second, this rope performs better than any other when swinging leads high off the ground. “I like how the slick handle of this rope helps me save energy on big days,” our lead reviewer said. It also has Beal's proprietary construction that binds the sheath to the core, making coreshots less disastrous, which reduces mental weight on exposed routes.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
60
Diameter (mm)
9.1
Weight (g/m)
53
Lengths Available (m)
50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200
Dry Coating Option
Dry Cover, Golden Dry
The major downside with this rope is that it is too slippery and skinny to be used for extended bouts of top-roping. It doesn't bite as easily as other ropes in assisted braking devices, and the sheath wears out relatively easily. For top-roping and mileage, we'd recommend the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic or the Sterling VR9 9.8. It's versatile enough to be used in regular alpine climbing, but gram-counters will notice that this is heavier than the lightest alpine ropes by about two-thirds of a pound (300 grams). If you climb a lot of multi-pitch and want a rope that will make your days on the wall easier, this is the perfect rope to add to your quiver.
The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros is a veteran rope that has been on the market for years, and offers versatility for every style of climbing. At 9.2 millimeters in diameter, it is skinny enough for hard sends and long routes, while also providing enough durability for heavy-duty use. From single-pitch top-roping to hard redpoints and alpine climbs, this rope can do it all. With smooth handling, triple-use certification, and a great dry treatment, we bring this rope on long climbing trips where we might encounter a little bit of everything.
SPECIFICATIONS
Length Tested (m)
70
Diameter (mm)
9.2
Weight (g/m)
56
Lengths Available (m)
40, 70, 80
Dry Coating Option
XEROS Dry Treatment (PFOA-free)
This rope is most at home at the sport crag and on multi-pitch routes, and it sacrifices some performance at each end of the use spectrum. It's a lot heavier than the skinniest alpine ropes, like the Beal Opera, and it isn't nearly as durable as workhorse-style ropes like the Sterling VR9 9.8. Still, it shows acceptable performance in these disciplines, and excels in the areas that most users prioritize. For that reason, we recommend this product if you only want to buy one rope, but want to practice a variety of climbing styles.
The Sterling Aero 9.2 handles well and is super versatile. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Product Comparison Table
We had a blast testing each rope design, from single pitches to alpine objectives, to big walls in Yosemite Valley. We hope our perspectives and experience help you select the best rope for your next adventure. Credit: Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht
How We Tested
As you might expect, we climbed a lot with each rope during our testing period. The process starts by researching all available models, then whittling down the choices based on specs, user reviews, and personal experience. Then, we purchase each rope at retail price. Once we have the ropes, we uncoil them and take them to the crag. We tie in, clip quickdraws, take whippers, coil, re-coil, and rappel on each rope all day long. We hand out our ropes to other experts to gather more opinions. See our full How We Test page to learn more about our testing process.
Finally, we assign each rope a score from 1 to 10 in five different rating metrics:
Handling (30% of overall score weighting)
Durability (25% weighting)
Versatility (20% weighting)
Features (15% weighting)
Weight (10% weighting)
Why Trust GearLab
Our lead tester for this review Trish Matheny. She works on Yosemite Search and Rescue and spends most of her time free climbing on big walls in the Valley, sport climbing at Eastside crags like the Tioga Cliff and the Owens River Gorge, traveling abroad for adventures in remote areas like the Cochamó Valley in Chile, and developing new routes during the summer in the High Sierra.
She is joined by Jeff Dobronyi. He has over twelve years of experience as an IFMGA-certified Mountain Guide, leading climbing trips from Boulder, Colorado to the desert cliffs of Moab and Red Rock Canyon to the Alps. His quiver includes ropes of all lengths and sizes, and he wears out three or four ropes per year on single-pitch, multi-pitch, alpine, and ice routes all over the world. Jeff relies on ropes to keep him off the ground nearly every day of the year.
We have tested ropes all over the place to find out which are the best.
Analysis and Test Results
We analyzed each rope's performance in this test and determined its strengths, weaknesses, and best uses. Then, we compared and contrasted similar competitors. Here, we break down the evaluation metrics and discuss the top performers in each.
Worse Value
Better Value
What's the Best Value?
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic costs significantly less than the rest of the competition, making it a no-brainer for climbers looking for a good deal on a climbing rope. It is useful for single-pitch climbing (lead or top-rope), gym climbing, moderate multi-pitch, and even aid climbing and ice top-roping. It isn't as useful when weight matters, since it's a bit heavier than the lightest ropes. Still, it's hard to pass by this affordable, high-performance option.
The Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic costs a lot less than other ropes on the market, and outperforms them all for a versatile, durable single-pitch rope. Credit: Jack Cramer
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic is nearly the same as the Crag We Care Classic, but it comes in more traditional color options and has a bi-pattern option. This is our overall favorite rope, and it's also a lot cheaper than nearly every other rope on the market.
The Crag Classic is a versatile design that's perfect for everything from single pitches to big walls. It doesn't have a dry treatment so it can absorb dirt quickly. Credit: Trish Matheny
All of the Beal ropes are priced a bit lower than their competitors, which is good news for the consumer. The Beal Joker is our favorite rope for multi-pitch climbing, and the Beal Opera is our top choice for alpine climbing. The Beal Booster III isn't our top choice for a workhorse rope, but it is priced a lot lower than similar competitors, making it the best workhorse rope for users on a budget.
All of the Beal ropes are good, and they're a bit less expensive than the rest of the competition. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Sterling VR9 9.8 is new to our lineup this season and we were impressed by how well this more affordable design handled. In fact, thanks to the thick diameter and dry treatment, it looked brand new even after 6 full days of use between the sport crags and Tuolumne Meadows.
The Sterling VR9 is worth every penny of the affordable design. It handles well, includes a dry treatment, and withstood abuse during long mileage days better than most. Credit: Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht
Handling
This metric assesses how each rope feels to use. We evaluated each model based on its suppleness and the ease of coiling, climbing, clipping carabiners, tying knots, and belaying. Handling is a rope's most important characteristic and is usually the first thing most climbers talk about when you ask how they like their rope. The ropes that handle best are smooth, supple, and easy to bend. This makes tying knots, clipping draws, and belaying easier. Lower performers either felt stiff and inflexible or quickly broke down into an abrasive skin wrecker that nobody wanted to grab. Although thinner ropes are often a bit easier to manipulate than thicker ones, they can be harder to grip or belay with, so the differences often balance out.
The Beal Opera offers the best handling out of any rope on the market. It happens to be the skinniest single rope as well. The sheath feels smooth and easy to grab while clipping carabiners, and it doesn't get any more abrasive over time as the sheath begins to fuzz. It pinches easily, but doesn't feel too soft or squishy, and it's easy to tie knots. We also love how smooth it feels when we pull slack through a belay device while belaying a follower. Compared to similar-diameter ropes, the Opera has much less resistance.
The Beal Opera (green) has less friction when running over carabiners and through belay devices than other ropes. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
We also love the handling of the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and We Care Classic. Both ropes are supple and smooth, despite their above-average diameter. The Beal Joker, Sterling Aeros 9.2, and Petzl Volta all handle smoothly and pleasantly.
The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros is soft and supple, which makes for a rope with great handling. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Not far behind the Mammut designs is the Sterling VR9 9.8 that handles surprisingly well in spite of its thicker diameter. While other Sterling ropes we've tested have felt pretty soft, the VR9 strikes a nice balance between rigidity and flexibility. The catches were soft, but not too soft, making this the perfect workhorse for single pitches of lead climbing and top-roping at your favorite crag.
The Sterling VR9 handles super well despite its thicker diameter and dry treatment. Credit: Trish Matheny
The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is another option for excellent handling. Although the rope can feel a little stiffer than others, we appreciated the tight weave for increased durability. The thinner diameter handled well while we fed out slack in the GriGri, and also struck a great balance between rigidity and flexibility within the sheath.
Although the Ion sheath has a more rigid feel, we appreciated the tightly woven sheath for added durability, and it still handled quite well whether on lead or belayed. Credit: Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht
It can be dangerous to generalize, but we found that each brand's ropes have similar handling. In particular, the Beal and Mammut ropes seem to feel the best, while Edelrid's sheath weave often feels abrasive. That said, we do like the sheath feel of the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.3 Eco Dry has a tight weave and a smooth sheath feel that is nice on the hands. Credit: Jack Cramer
The Edelrid Boa Eco 2R 9.6 is a softer design that handled well during single pitches, however, it gives almost shockingly soft catches. Our first lead fall on this design was, well, memorable due to the ample rope stretch. This is also something to be mindful of when top-roping your friends as the rope stretch can result in a potential soft deck if you don't have the right amount of tension in the system.
The Edelrid Boa is one of the softest ropes that we climbed, providing soft catches within the supple sheath. Credit: Trish Matheny
Durability
Ropes are our lifeline when hanging in vertical terrain, so it's natural that durability is a primary concern of climbing rope shoppers. Sheath wear, in particular, is commonly experienced by climbers who use their ropes day in and day out, caused by the rope rubbing over sharp edges and crystals during normal use. Some sheaths resist fuzzing more than others. Occasionally, ropes suffer core damage, but this is usually due to misuse around a sharp edge, rockfall, or any other uncommon event, and we normally don't attribute coreshots to manufacture differences. That said, a durable sheath can prevent core-shots by maintaining a thick and protective layer around the core. Interestingly, dry treatments can also slow down sheath wear.
Unsurprisingly, the thickest ropes in the test showed the greatest durability. A thicker rope has more material to absorb wear and tear, and a larger diameter means that a rope lays flatter against the surface of the rock, further distributing contact with sharp edges. The Beal Booster III, the Sterling VR9 9.8, and Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8 all showed impressive durability over our test period, and are great choices for those after workhorse design. Daily top-roping and mileage sessions are no match for these ropes, and we'd also recommend them for aid climbing, so long as you don't mind the extra weight.
The Velocity XEROS was among the most durable ropes we have tested to date, with a dry treatment and 9.8mm diameter. Credit: Jack Cramer
The next best ropes for durability are in the 9.5 to 9.6 millimeter range. The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 has impressive durability and a tight sheath weave that feels impervious in the hand. Over time, we noticed that the rope became more cord-like and stiff, but the sheath showed no signs of wearing out. The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and We Care Classic are perennial favorites for top-roping, single-pitch cragging, and multi-pitch mileage.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry DuoTec 9.6 showed promising durability thanks to a super-tight weave that doesn't allow the sheath to snag easily. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
It's worth mentioning that all of Beal's ropes are made with Unicore Technology, which binds the sheath fibers to the core. Usually, the sheath is a tube of woven material, completely independent from the core underneath. In the case of significant sheath damage, the weak sheath of the rope could slide off the bottom of the rope like a sock coming off a foot. Unicore ensures that severe sheath damage won't end up in rope failure, since sheath damage can't spread when the sheath is bonded to the core. We noticed that some sheath damage was arrested by Unicore, meaning sheath tears didn't spread like they would on a normal rope. But, the effect of Unicore on sheath wear and tear was otherwise minimal, and didn't help Beal's ropes score any higher in this metric. However, it's nice to know that your rope won't fail when you are hanging off a tall cliff if the rope experiences severe sheath damage from a sharp edge.
Beal's ropes have average sheath durability, but the Unicore construction is a nice addition for peace of mind when you are climbing wandering routes high off the ground. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry is a super durable option for those looking for a little extra confidence on bigger objectives. The cut resistant sheath combines with a thicker 9.5mm diameter and dry treatment that makes it the perfect choice for objectives big and small. In fact, we had a blast taking this rope up Middle Cathedral in Yosemite Valley during a week long first ascent push where we used the rope to lead climb, jumar, haul, micro traxion, and top-rope. By the end of the week, there was barely any wear on the rope despite supporting the workload of four team members.
The Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry is one of our favorite cords when it comes to a durable workhorse for objectives way off the deck. Credit: Trish Matheny
Versatility
Increasingly, ropes are designed with specific climbing styles in mind. However, most climbers only have one rope, so it needs to be versatile enough different kinds of climbing. Most ropes excel in one or two disciplines, and can perform relatively well in a couple others. A few of the ropes in our review only perform well for a particular style of climbing. A high score in this category means it is a good rope for users hoping to own just one. A low score means a rope is a good addition to a quiver of ropes.
We discovered that versatility is closely correlated with diameter. Ropes in the 9.2-9.3 millimeter diameter ranger were the most versatile, since they are light enough to be used for alpine climbing, and can also handle some abuse at the top-rope crag. The Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS and Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 are the most versatile ropes on the market, since they can be used for literally any kind of climbing. They both have dry treatments that keep out water, making them suitable for ice and mixed climbing too.
Alpine climbing in Colorado with the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is another great choice for those seeking a versatile design. The Ion was our favorite “sending” cord during our most recent testing period thanks to the skinnier diameter and lightweight construction. It's also a great choice for multi-pitch objectives when you'd like the convenience of a bi-pattern during long rappels.
The Ion is a versatile design that we appreciated on single and multi-pitch objectives. Credit: Trish Matheny
The Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and Crag We Care Classic are also versatile, despite their 9.5 millimeter diameter. They are less suitable for alpine climbing, but they are great on multi-pitch routes. They outperform the 9.2-9.3 millimeter ropes in the single-pitch and gym-climbing disciplines, which is where many climbers spend most of their time. We also like the versatility of the Black Diamond 9.4 Dry and the Petzl Volta.
Testing the versatile Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic on El Cap. Credit: Jack Cramer
Features
Modern climbing ropes have come a long way from the basic kernmantle ropes of the past. Now, features like dry treatments, multiple use ratings, convenient factory coils, different length and color options, and different types of middle marks are used to make the vertical life easier. For a full run-down on the different climbing rope features, check out our buying advice article.
Beal'sOpera and Joker are the most heavily-featured ropes in our review. They have two different types of dry treatments available, and come in a variety of lengths so that you can customize your rope purchase to fit your needs. They both have Unicore construction, which adds security in the event of rope damage. They're also triple-rated, meaning they can be used as half or twin ropes in addition to single-rope systems. This adds significant versatility for advanced users. The only feature we miss with these ropes is the lack of a bi-pattern middle mark.
The Beal Opera's middle mark is relatively easy to see, but it wears off quickly and needs to be re-marked often. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Speaking of middle marks, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 has one of the best middle-marks around, thanks to a distinct bi-pattern sheath design. The sheath changes color from pink to blue at the halfway point, making it easy for users to spot the middle when lowering a climber or rappelling. The Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros has a bi-pattern option, a triple-use rating, and a great dry treatment.
Edelrid's ropes come with a handy slot in the packaging that allows the user to pull the rope out of the factory coil without twisting the rope. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is another feature-rich design that combines a thinner diameter with Sterling's proprietary Xeros dry treated core, and a clearly-defined bi-pattern that make versatile enough for single or multi-pitch routes. It's also available in a wide range of lengths from 40-80 meters so you can select the best length for your local area. The Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry is another versatile design thanks to a dry treatment, thicker diameter, and cut resistant sheath that help it perform well for a variety of objectives.
We love feature-rich designs like the Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry that are perfect for big objectives. Credit: Trish Matheny
Weight
Generally, weight decreases as rope diameter decreases. Skinnier ropes have less core and sheath material, making them lighter, but less durable. As such, lightweight ropes aren't necessarily better than heavier ropes. Lighter ropes are still plenty strong, but they are most useful when the approach gets lengthy and when pitches stretch over 30 meters.
Rope Weight and Diameter
Weight (g/m)
Calculated Sheath Weight (g/m)
Diameter (mm)
Beal Opera
48
18
8.5
Edelrid Canary Pro Dry
51
24
8.6
Edelrid Swift Eco Dry
52
18
8.9
Beal Joker
53
19
9.1
Petzl Volta
55
23
9.2
Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros
56
23
9.2
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.3
57
22
9.3
Black Diamond 9.4 Dry
58
21
9.4
Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care
58
24
9.5
Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic
59
24
9.5
Beal Booster III
61
26
9.7
Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8
62
22
9.8
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.6
62
25
9.6
The lightest rope on the market is the Beal Opera. At 8.5 millimeters in diameter and a weight of 48 grams per meter, this rope sets the standard for lightweight performance, and it's used mostly for alpine climbing. In most other types of climbing, a little more weight is acceptable, especially when durability is increased by bringing a heavy rope. But for alpine climbing, where every gram counts, this rope is a godsend.
Testing the Edelrid Canary Pro Dry (red) and Beal Opera (green) side by side. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
We also like the lightweight Beal Joker for multi-pitch climbing at our limit, where every gram hanging from our harness makes a difference while we're trying to send the pitch.
The highly versatile Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS, Sterling Aero 9.2 and Edelrid TC Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 are all light enough for long routes and lengthy approaches, but they have a little more heft due to their increased diameters. Still, these ropes are light enough for most weight-conscious missions.
The Sterling and Edelrid options are a little heavier due to their features a thicker diameters, however, not enough to truly rule them out for objectives with longer approaches.
How to Choose a Climbing Rope
Here are a few simple variables to consider when selecting a climbing rope. For more information, check out our climbing rope buying advice article.
Diameter
Since every climbing rope is made with the same basic construction of a strong core surrounded by a colorful woven sheath, the biggest difference between ropes is the diameter. Thicker ropes are more durable, thanks to a thicker core and more sheath material to absorb wear and tear. Thinner ropes are less durable, but are also lighter than thick ropes. Thinner ropes stretch more than thicker ropes. If you plan on doing a lot of top-roping and single-pitch climbing, a thicker rope between 9.5 and 10.0 millimeters in diameter is appropriate. If you plan on using the rope for alpine climbing, routes with long approaches, or long routes, a lighter rope between 8.5 and 8.9 millimeters in diameter is a good choice. The most versatile ropes have a diameter of 9.0 to 9.5 millimeters, mixing the best of both worlds. They are lighter and more portable than thick ropes, and more durable than thin ropes.
The diameter of a rope is an important consideration. While a skinny diameter can be the perfect choice for the alpine or multi-pitch, they often aren't as durable. Thicker designs, like the Sterling VR9 pictured here are the perfect choice for your single pitch mileage. Credit: Trish Matheny
Length
After deciding which diameter rope to purchase, you'll have to decide which length to purchase. 40-meter ropes are suitable only for gym climbs or top-roping short routes. 50-meter ropes are most useful in the Alps, where 25- or 50-meter pitches and 25-meter rappels are the norm. 60-meter ropes are the standard length, and most versatile. 70-meter ropes allow passage on some modern routes where 35-meter pitches and rappels are becoming more common. 80-meter ropes are useful only in specific destinations with long routes.
The length of rope you need will depend on your objectives. On big walls and multi-pitch routes you can typically get away with a shorter length to save some weight. While most modern sport routes may require an 80 meter to lower safely. Credit: Trish Matheny
Other Features
Once you decide on the length and diameter range, you'll want to consider what additional features you need in a rope. Some ropes come with UIAA-certified Dry Treatments, which prevent the absorption of water. This is beneficial for anyone who climbs in the winter or in a wet summer climate. Some ropes have bi-pattern sheath designs, which are much easier to see than black middle marks that tend to wear off over time. If you do a lot of multi-pitch climbing or single-pitch climbing on long routes, a bi-pattern rope may be worthwhile. Finally, many of the skinniest ropes are triple-rated for use in single, half, and twin rope systems. This feature is only useful for climbers well-versed in these advanced tactics.
Feature rich designs like the Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry are perfect for big wall and multi-pitch objectives where you'll need to use the rope for more than one application. Credit: Trish Matheny
Other Climbing Ropes to Consider
Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry - this rope is the perfect workhorse for objectives big and small. We loved testing it on a big wall first ascent thanks to its thick diameter, cut resistant sheath, and dry treatment that inspired confidence 2,000 feet above the deck.
The Mammut 9.5 Alpine Core Protect Dry is a feature-rich design that includes a ton of durability making it the perfect choice for your workhorse above the deck. Credit: Trish Matheny
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 - this is another great bi-pattern option with a clear middle mark that's compromised of two separate colors. The thinner sheath keeps the weight down, and it handles well for a variety of objectives.
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 is a great choice for those seeking a clearly-defined bi-pattern within a versatile design. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Conclusion
Deciding which climbing rope to purchase can be a difficult decision. Here, we've answered many of the common questions about how to choose a climbing rope. We hope you can now make an informed decision on which one will suit your climbing needs the best. We'll see you at the crag!
We hope our testing experience and perspectives help you select the perfect cord for your next adventure. Credit: Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht
