Sterling Aero 9.2 Xeros Review

This rope toes the line between a superlight alpine climbing rope and a thicker crag-oriented workhorse rope. With performance attributes that allow it to be used for any type of climbing, we think this is the most versatile rope on the market.

Performance Comparison

Handling

The Sterling Aero 9.2 has a soft feel right from the start. It's easy to tie tight knots and clip quickdraws with this rope as soon as you take it out of the wrapper. After a busy summer of climbing on this rope, this rope felt about as soft as it did when it was new, and it didn't grow stiffer with use. The dry treatment gives an oily and slick feel to the rope when new, but this didn't affect its ability to bite in belay devices. This slippery surface wears off over time, producing a rope that remains easy to handle over time.

We were a bit alarmed at how soft this rope felt out of the box, since ropes tend to get softer over time (unless subjected to repeated rappelling). A soft rope allows easy handling, but it also presents durability concerns, since the rope is more easily bent over sharp edges. Indeed, durability is the main drawback of this rope. That said, this rope handles like a dream and is easy to use whether you are leading a pitch or belaying one.

Durability

Indeed, our fears about the durability of this soft-handed rope were somewhat confirmed. The sheath weave feels slightly loose right out of the factory, and while this may produce easy handling, it also seems to catch on sharp edges and coarse crystals more easily than ropes with a tighter sheath weave. We noticed large nicks and tears in the sheath after just a few pitches of average-sharpness rock.

Over a summer of climbing, we noticed a reasonable amount of sheath fuzz developing. While this is normal, and it's actually how the sheath is designed to work, we think this rope wears out faster than others on the market.

It isn't a deal-breaker, but if you are looking for a workhorse rope that will last year after year of heavy use, this isn't the rope for you. But for the average climber who goes outdoor climbing a couple times a week, this rope is plenty durable.

Versatility

The Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS is the most versatile rope on the market, and it's the one we reach for when going on a long climbing trip where any climbing discipline is in the cards. The 9.2-millimeter diameter is the sweet spot for versatility, since the rope is light enough to be carried deep into the alpine, and it's thick enough to be used for single-pitch cragging and top-roping. This rope is at it's best for multi-pitch climbing and onsighting single-pitch routes, but it's burly enough to take repeated whippers at the gym or outdoor crag, and light enough for backcountry missions.

Not surprisingly, the versatility of the Aero 9.2 tapers off at the extreme ends of the spectrum. If you are hiking miles and miles into the backcountry for an alpine climb, this rope might be a bit too thick and heavy. On the other side of the spectrum, if you plan on mostly top-roping or aid climbing, we recommend a thicker rope that can take more of a beating. But for most climbers, these uses are few and far between, and most of our time is spent at the sport crag or on multi-pitch routes. For the majority of users, this rope offers exceptional versatilty.

Features

The Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS has a great set of features that add to its versatility. First, the rope is triple-rated as a single, half, and twin rope. This means that it can be used in a variety of advanced climbing systems. The rope comes in five color options, including two bi-pattern weaves. It comes in 40-, 70-, and 80-meter length options, and we bought the 70-meter length for the greatest versatility. Finally, it has a UIAA-certified dry treatment, meaning that it repels water and only absorbs up to 5% of the weight of the rope, which is minimal.

Our testing rope didn't have a bi-pattern, and the black middle mark faded easily. Even out of the box, it was difficult to see the middle mark against the dark blue sheath. That's the only complaint we have with the features of the Sterling Aero 9.2, and it's not a huge deal, since most middle marks fade over time. In our experience testing ropes, it's common for us to have to re-mark the middle of our ropes after every 15-20 uses.

Weight

At 56 grams per meter, the Sterling Aero 9.2 weighs in at the middle of the pack. The thicker the rope, the heavier the rope will be, and this rope fits into the spectrum exactly where it should. Far from the lightest rope on the market, we reach for a lighter option when we are headed deep into the backcountry or need to do a lot of uphill hiking to reach the base of a route. That said, this rope is light enough for the occasional alpine foray.

The extended weight of this rope is 7.4 pounds (3.36 kilograms) for a 60-meter length, 8.6 pounds (3.92 kg) for a 70-meter length, and 9.9 pounds (4.48 kg) or an 80-meter length. This is a bit too heavy for long slogs to the base of the route, but it's perfect for short to moderate approaches where increased durability and diameter is preferred once you get to the crag. It's plenty light for short approaches to multi-pitch rock and ice climbs.

We brought this rope into the alpine a few times, and noticed the weight compared to the lightest ropes on the market. It wasn't a deal-breaker if the approaches weren't too long and if our packs were full of other heavy things like a large rock rack.

Should You Buy the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS?

This rope is the perfect rope for climbers who participate in every climbing discipline, from alpine rock and ice climbs to sport climbing and cragging. It is one of the only ropes on the market that is suitable for literally every kind of climbing. It excels on single-pitch sport and trad leads and multi-pitch adventures, but it also has enough versatility for alpine climbing and top-roping. You can even use it in the gym. It isn't cheap, but it might save you money by allowing you to purchase one rope for all uses.

What Other Climbing Ropes Should You Consider?

If you want a little more durability for focusing on single-pitch climbing and top-roping, while still retaining good multi-pitch versatility, the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic is our top choice, and its eco-friendly twin Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic is another great option. If you are looking for even more durability, the Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8 is the best workhorse rope on the market. If long multi-pitch routes are your preferred style, the Beal Joker is hard to beat, but we don't like it as much for single-pitch climbing. And if you are looking for the lightest single rope for high and wild alpine climbing, the Beal Opera will take you there.