REASONS TO BUY
Supreme durability
Good features
Good dry treatment
REASONS TO AVOID
On the heavier side
Not versatile
Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8 Review
A thick and durable workhorse rope that is easy to climb with
We tested the neon green bi-pattern version of the Sterling Velocity Xeros. However, the color difference between the red and black halves is subtle. So subtle, in fact, we don't think it's worth the added cost.
Credit: Jack Cramer
RELATED: Best Rock Climbing Ropes of 2024
Our Verdict
The Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8 is a durable and smooth rope that makes a perfect workhorse for heavy use. The sheath feels great in the hand, and it's easy to pull this rope through belay devices. We hardly encountered any wear and tear during our test, thanks to the rope's high diameter. It has many sheath color and middle mark options, as well as a great dry treatment. On the heavy side, this rope isn't versatile for long walks into the backcountry for multi-pitch or alpine climbs, but it's great for all single-pitch uses and gym climbing. See it rated versus top competitors in our review of climbing ropes.
Editor's Note: On October 30, 2024, we updated this review to include new findings after a fresh set of testing.
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8 | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  Best Workhorse Rope |  Best Overall Rock Climbing Rope | Best for Alpine Climbing |  Best Bang for the Buck | Best for Multi-Pitch |
| Price | $249.95 at REI Compare at 3 sellers | $189.99 at Dick's Sporting Goods Compare at 2 sellers | $236.99 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $164.95 at REI Compare at 3 sellers | $250 List $219.95 at Backcountry |
Overall Score  |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | Great handling for a thicker rope that can take loads of abuse | No rope does a better job of including all the attributes we want – durability, great handling, and a reasonable price | The best lightweight rope for alpine climbing on the market | An excellent deal on an environmentally friendly and high-performance rope | This rope hits the sweet spot between weight and durability for long multi-pitch routes |
| Rating Categories | Sterling Velocity X... | Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla... | Beal Opera | Mammut 9.5 Crag We... | Beal Joker |
| Handling (30%) | |||||
| Durability (25%) | |||||
| Versatility (20%) | |||||
| Features (15%) | |||||
| Weight (10%) | |||||
| Specs | Sterling Velocity X... | Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla... | Beal Opera | Mammut 9.5 Crag We... | Beal Joker |
| Length Tested (m) | 60 | 60 | 60 | 70 | 60 |
| Diameter (mm) | 9.8 | 9.5 | 8.5 | 9.5 | 9.1 |
| Weight (g/m) | 62 | 59 | 48 | 58 | 53 |
| Lengths Available (m) | 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 | 50, 60, 70, 80 | 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200 | 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 | 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200 |
| Dry Coating Option | XEROS Dry Treatment (PFOA-free) | Classic, Dry | Dry Cover, Golden Dry | Classic, Dry | Dry Cover, Golden Dry |
| Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option | Bi-pattern, middle mark | Bi-pattern, middle mark | Middle mark | Middle mark | Middle mark |
| Certified Use | Single | Single | Single, Half, and Twin | Single | Single, Half and Twin |
| UIAA Number of Factor 1.77 Falls | 6 | 6 | 5 (single), 20-22 (half), >25 (twin) | 6 | 5 (single), 20 (half), >25 (twin) |
| Impact Force (kN) | 8.6 | 7.7 | 7.3 (single), 5.5 (half), 8.8 (twin) | 7.7 | 8.2 (single), 6.0 (half), 9.5 (twin) |
| Static Elongation % (in use) | 8.8 | 7.5 | 8.4 (single), 8.4 (half), 5.1 (twin) | 7.5 | 8.5 (single), 8.4 (half), 5.0 (twin) |
| Dynamic Elongation % (first fall) | 28.8 | 33 | 36 (single), 32 (half), 28 (twin) | 33 | 35(single), 32 (half), 28 (twin) |
| Sheath Proportion % | 35 | 42 | 38 | 42 | 35 |
| Calculated Weight of Sheath (g/m) | 22 | 24 | 18 | 24 | 19 |
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Our Analysis and Test Results
For such a thick rope, the Velocity handles surprisingly well, and delivers the durability that we'd expect from a 9.8 millimeter cord.
Performance Comparison
The Sterling Velocity XEROS is a solid all-arounder with a unique dry-treatment for enhanced water and abrasion-resistance.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Handling
For a “thicker” rope, the Velocity handles particularly well. The sheath feels smooth and clips carabiners with ease. It slides through devices with less friction than other thick ropes, but still enough to make catching a fallen climber easy. Knots are easy to tie and don't want to come out on their own, which is a phenomenon we've observed with some stiffer thick ropes. The sheath weave isn't too tight, nor too loose. The sheath feels comfortable in our hands and isn't abrasive to the skin. When catching a fall, the rope doesn't stretch too much, which makes it a great choice for top-roping.
When compared to some of the other thick ropes we've tested over the years, this rope is a dream to handle. However, compared to thinner ropes in general, this line feels a little more cumbersome, especially when feeding slack through an assisted-braking belay device for a lead belay and when trying to clip a small carabiner. It also comes with a factory butterfly coil, which means that the rope will be twist-free right out of the packaging.
The Sterling Velocity XEROS handles exceptionally well for a thicker climbing rope. Our testers particularly liked the feel of the tight 2-over-2 weave on the sheath.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Durability
This rope impressed us during our durability testing and also during our personal use. That shouldn't be surprising for one of the thicker ropes in the review. With such a high diameter, there is more material to absorb wear and tear compared to skinnier ropes. When pulled taught over an edge, the rope flattens out in a wider footprint than skinnier ropes, decreasing the pressure on any individual sheath fiber. The result is a rope that lasts a long time.
Further increasing the Velocity's durability is the excellent XEROS dry treatment. Sterling applies this PFOA-free treatment to the individual filaments before they're spun into yarns and eventually woven into rope. This treatment effectively keeps water out of the core of the rope, and it also seems to inhibit dirt and grime from rubbing into the rope. Finally, it makes the sheath feel smooth, which might have some effect on preventing sheath wear.
With a thick 9.8mm diameter, tight sheath, and excellent dry treatment, the Sterling Velocity XEROS was one of the most durable climbing ropes we tested.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Versatility
This rope excels in the gym and at the top-roping crag, and it also makes for a good lead line while aid climbing. Apart from those uses, this rope isn't versatile. It's just too heavy to haul up a multi-pitch climb, and hiking this rope into the backcountry for an alpine climb makes our knees hurt just thinking about it. The thick diameter also makes it a little harder to clip the rope into quickdraws or cams while leading hard pitches.
Our testers are spoiled rotten by having access to the best ropes in the world. Most users purchase just one climbing rope and make it work for all applications. If you are learning to climb, setting up top ropes regularly, or are building a fleet of ropes for professional or group use, this rope is a good choice. But if you anticipate moving into multi-pitch or alpine climbing, there are other options that are versatile enough to be used at both the crag and the wall.
At 9.8mm, the Sterling Velocity XEROS is probably too thick for serious sport projects, but it's a reliable choice for more casual sport or trad climbing.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Features
The Sterling Velocity XEROS 9.8 has good features that make it easy to use at the cliff. We already mentioned the excellent dry treatment, which keeps the rope clean and protected, and also lends versatility for top-roping waterfall ice and mixed routes. We also like the variety of color options and sheath patterns, which include both middle marks and bi-pattern options.
The rope comes in lengths from 40 meters to 80 meters, meaning you'll be able to find the perfect length for routes in your area. We also love how the rope comes factory-sealed in a butterfly coil, eliminating the need to carefully uncoil the rope to avoid twists.
In our tests, Sterling's unique XEROS dry treatment held up better than the dry treatments on many other climbing ropes.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Weight
This rope weighs in at 62 grams per meter. That makes it one of the heaviest ropes that we tested. Compared to the lightest ropes on the market, this one weighs nearly two pounds (900 grams) more in a 60-meter length. While this doesn't matter much for top-roping and gym climbing, it takes a toll over time. Even hiking to the top of the cliff with this rope again and again will feel like a chore.
Of course, increased durability is one of the main benefits of a heavier rope with more material. For users who put a lot of use into their ropes, this added weight is worth the hassle. In the climbing gym, where we lower repeatedly on steel carabiners and don't care about weight, this rope will last a long time. However, we hated carrying this rope more than a few minutes to the crag, and if weight is a consideration for you, there are thinner and lighter ropes out there that provide similar levels of durability.
The Sterling Velocity XEROS weighs a hefty 62 grams per meter. That shouldn't be a problem at most crags. but most folks would prefer something lighter for alpine or backcountry climbing.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Should You Buy the Sterling Velocity Xeros 9.8?
If you are looking for a workhorse rope that can withstand frequent use, this is a great choice. Top-ropers and gym climbers would be hard-pressed to find a better rope for those applications. However, if you want more versatility for multi-pitch climbing, we wouldn't recommend this one. The price is reasonable for middle-mark sheath options, but it's a bit steep for a bi-pattern sheath. If you want to get a lot of rope use for your money, this rope presents a good value.
The Sterling Velocity XEROS is a premium rope with a premium price. We think the added cost is justified for the standard color options, but less acceptable for the bi-pattern versions.
Credit: Jack Cramer
What Other Rock Climbing Ropes Should You Consider?
If you want similar workhorse durability, but want to save a few bucks, the Beal Booster III is a bit cheaper, but it doesn't have as soft a handle. Even less expensive and still plenty durable for most top-roping sessions is our favorite rope, the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and its eco-friendly twin, the Crag We Care Classic. If you want a lighter rope that is still versatile enough for all-around use, the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS is the best bet. And for the lightest rope on the market, check out the Beal Opera.
—Jack Cramer
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