In typical GearLab style, we begin our climbing rope test with detailed market research to determine which are the top climbing ropes on the market. We whittle down a very long list to a small group of promising contenders and then purchase each of them at full retail price. We research the options for each product and record important data for each sample.
Then, we put the ropes to the test by climbing, rappelling, belaying, and traversing with each product. In order to use each rope enough to give you appropriate feedback on handling, durability, and long-term performance, we needed more than just a couple of people using these things. Our testers have 85+ years of climbing experience combined. We took them on our summer road trips, and they got extensive use in a variety of locations, including Ten Sleep, WY, Boulder Canyon, CO, Taos, NM, and Yosemite Valley, CA, the Tioga Cliff, even Chulilla, Spain, not to mention at our home crags around Las Vegas, NV and Smith Rock, OR. Here's how we evaluate each design based on our specific testing criteria.
Handling
After uncoiling each rope and flaking them out, we considered their hand feel and suppleness. We performed a pinch test to compare how easily a rope pinches into a bight. Then, we assessed the ease of belaying, clipping, and tying knots with each rope. We climbed at least 60 pitches with each and reconsidered the score. Some ropes had changed, either stiffened or loosened up compared to their new state, and others stay the same. While different climbers prefer different things when it comes to handling, we compared notes and came to a consensus among our test group.
Durability
To test and rate for durability, we used each rope for a busy summer season of climbing. We kept a log of every climbing day and made sure to rotate through the ropes to climb the same number of pitches on each one. We didn't stop until we climbed up to 60 pitches with each design, and most got an additional 10-20 more. After that, we carefully examined each line and compared the wear, if any, on the sheath, how dirty the rope was, and if there were any specific concerns. We also constantly revise our findings as we use ropes longer than our initial testing period. Some of our favorite ropes we've used for years, and have inputted our findings into our reviews.
Versatility
We began by weighing each rope, and considering which ones were suitable and appealing for long approaches to remote alpine climbs. Then we assessed which were light enough for multi-pitch climbing, and finally, which ropes ought to be saved for short approaches, single-pitch cragging, and gym climbing. Then, we climbed on each rope in a variety of disciplines, putting our hypotheses to the test. We also relied upon dry treatment testing results to extrapolate which ropes are appropriate for snow climbs and ice routes.
Features
We started by researching the color, middle mark, and length options for each rope. We tested each rope's dry treatment by leaving the ropes out in the rain, or quickly dunking them in puddles or buckets of water. We assessed the usefulness of each rope's middle mark, and noted which ropes were triple-rated for use as single, half, and twin ropes. Finally, we carefully uncoiled each rope to assess the various send-read coiling methods.
Weight
We start by noting the advertised weight of each rope. Then we weigh each design on the same calibrated scale to test the manufacturers' claims. We also carry the ropes day-in and day-out to see which ones feel appropriate for long approaches, and which ones we didn't like carrying.
