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We purchased and tested 18 pairs of the best women's climbing shoes from La Sportiva, Scarpa, Five Ten, Unparallel, Butora, Evolv, and Black Diamond
We tested the best climbing shoes for women, including shoes from Scarpa, La Sportiva, and Five Ten
Credit: Whitney Clark
By Whitney Clark ⋅ Review Editor ⋅ Updated November 19, 2025
Over the past decade, our team has tested more than 50 of the best women's climbing shoes. We purchased 15 of today's top models to test side by side. Whether you're a newbie or a seasoned pro, the perfect pair of climbing shoes will offer the fit and performance to help you climb more confidently.
From circuits in the gym to the sweeping walls of France's Verdon Gorge, we climbed cracks, pulled on pockets, and tiptoed up delicate slabs to offer you the best recommendations based on real-world experience.
The versatile La Sportiva Skwama topped out as our favorite climbing shoe. The sticky soles and comfortable fit make it the first shoe we reach for to tackle our climbing projects. For a more reasonably priced, entry-level shoe, the La Sportiva Finale prioritizes comfort over performance, so that you can stay on the rock all day.
Editor's Note: We updated our review of women's climbing shoes on November 19, 2025, to retest some top-scoring shoes from La Sportiva and Scarpa, and to add a few new shoes from La Sportiva and Five Ten.
The incredibly comfortable La Sportiva Skwama is one of our favorite shoes and our go-to for most of our projects – from steep, overhanging pocketed lines to technical faces. The Skwama is confidence-inspiring on the smallest smears and the greasiest limestone footholds. We've climbed in these shoes on technical sandstone boulders in Fontainbleau, on steep tufa lines in southern Europe, and alpine cracks in Kyrgyzstan. With so much sticky rubber on the toe box, the Skwama also excels on thin cracks and corners. “It's a very versatile shoe, and I almost always have it in my bag, whether we're headed to the crag, gym, or up a steep multipitch route,” our lead tester said.
SPECIFICATIONS
Style
Velcro
Upper
Microfiber and leather
Lining
Unlined
Rubber Type
Vibram XS Grip2
Listed Rubber Thickness
4.0 mm
The Skwama is a great all-arounder, but it still has a few weak points. The unlined leather upper stretches out quickly, which is a bit disappointing given the price. Additionally, with their soft midsole, don't expect these to excel at edging. Fresh out of the box, they can hold their own on micro edges. But after a couple of months, they start to lose their shape and don't provide enough support underfoot to stand on tiny holds. Comparing the two top performers side by side, the La Sportiva Katana Lace has given us more mileage. We've found it's better to size down when purchasing the Skwama to improve longevity, but prepare for a painful break-in. Overall, we love the Skwama and are thrilled to have it accompany us on all our climbing adventures.
The La Sportiva Finale is a great all-around shoe that offers a good blend of comfort, edging capability, and durability. Compared to most of the other award winners, the price is totally reasonable, making it a great choice for folks just breaking into the climbing scene who don't want to break the bank. It has a neutral, asymmetric fit, with an unlined leather upper with just a bit of microfiber. The sole is thick Vibram XS Edge rubber, and the moderately stiff midsole makes this shoe pretty good at edging. The lace closure allows for a comfortable, fine-tuned fit, making it a favorite for climbers who want to wear their shoes for long gym sessions or multi-pitch days. “For a comfort-oriented shoe, the Finale edges reliably on vertical terrain,” explained our lead tester. “Though it lacks the aggressive precision, sensitivity, and hooking ability needed for steep overhangs or technical bouldering.”
SPECIFICATIONS
Style
Lace
Upper
Microfiber and leather
Lining
Unlined
Rubber Type
Vibram XS Edge
Listed Rubber Thickness
5.0 mm
Although these price-point shoes performed admirably across the board, they don't come close to the top performers in our lineup. Even though they're not designed for performance rock climbing, we tested the Finale on small edges and smears to see how well they work in more technical terrain. They performed fairly well, but their flat, symmetrical design doesn't offer much help with overhanging moves or pulling into pockets. They do, however, excel at crack climbing and should be directly compared against the Unparallel Up Lace LV, a perennial favorite among crack climbers.
Laces and leather uppers could have durability issues
The La Sportiva Katana Lace is one of the best all-around shoes we've ever worn. We've been wearing the men's version for years and were excited to get our hands on the women's specific model when it was released. The Katana Lace can really do it all. It excels on steep rock, tiny micro edges, and slippery slabs. Our lead tester commented, “When sized right, I found these shoes are a technical edging machine.” The toe box on these shoes is noticeably narrow, allowing it to perform well on thin cracks and corners. These shoes are super easy to adjust — cinch them down when it's time to take the sharp end on the crux pitch, or loosen them up for cruising hand cracks or while warming up at the crag. A medium-stiff midsole makes the Katana Lace versatile, and once broken in, you can trust these shoes on any type of hold.
SPECIFICATIONS
Style
Lace
Upper
Microfiber and leather
Lining
Full-length LaspoFlex with P3 system
Rubber Type
Vibram XS Edge
Listed Rubber Thickness
4.0 mm
Our only real gripe with the Katana Lace is its steep price point, which is beyond budget for some climbers. Our testing also led us to suspect that durability issues might arise in the leather uppers and toe box due to repeated abuse from crack climbing. If you're shopping specifically for crack climbing shoes, check out the La Sportiva Finale or the Scarpa Generator Mid. But for hard, multi-pitch trad routes, it's tough to beat the Katana Lace's ability to adapt to virtually any climbing style.
Performs well on slabby, vertical, and overhanging routes
Provides arch support for longer days
Very adjustable
CONS
Hook-and-loop closures aren't great for crack climbing
Narrow toe box
The La Sportiva Miura VS is a classic shoe that is ubiquitous in most climbing areas around the world. Compared to the original version, this updated model features a new heel construction for a better fit and high performance across a variety of terrain. Some women climb long backcountry big walls in the Miura VS, while others swear by them for steep sport lines. Our lead tester claimed, “These are some of the most sensitive edging machines I've tested.” They have a slingshot rand connected to the P3 system that provides increased tension and incredible edging power while standing on those tiny holds.
SPECIFICATIONS
Style
Velcro
Upper
Leather
Lining
Dentex
Rubber Type
Vibram XS Grip2
Listed Rubber Thickness
4.0 mm
Their slight downturn makes them great for steep climbing, their midsole is stiff enough for vertical terrain, and they are sensitive enough to smear on slabs. While the Miura VS can be sized for practically any project – with a bit more room for all-day comfort on hard free routes or tighter for a steep sport project – they do have a very foot-specific fit. While they could be used for technical, thin crack climbing, the double hook-and-loop closures aren't ideal for twisting into cracks. But if you're aiming for a pair of slippers, the Scarpa Instinct VS offered surprisingly similar climbing performance to the Miura VS, with a slightly more accommodating fit.
The La Sportiva Solution Comp is most at home on steep sport routes and hard boulder projects. It's similar to the original La Sportiva Solution in terms of design and performance, only better. The toe box is a little wider and has extra rubber coverage, making it a secret weapon for technical toe-hooks. Its pointed toe fits perfectly into small pockets and digs into even the most challenging holds. On the other end, the heel cup has a lower profile and is more sensitive than the original. Like a well-fitting glove, the Solution Comp envelops your foot, turning it into a high-performance, precise talon — ideal for toeing in on steep terrain.
SPECIFICATIONS
Style
Velcro/Fast Lacing System
Upper
Microfiber and leather
Lining
Pacific in toe and heel, Lycra tongue, unlined leather in the middle
Rubber Type
Vibram XS Grip2
Listed Rubber Thickness
3.5 mm
Since it's designed for high-performance climbing, the Solution Comp isn't versatile and can be a bit limiting. It's not a jack-of-all-trades shoe; it's a master of one, and it's best to bring this shoe out for certain occasions. The slipper-like fit and soft midsole simply can't deliver the same edging power as stiffer shoes. On thin, vertical faces, we often found ourselves wishing for something more supportive. Though our tests show neither excels at crack climbing, the Scarpa Instinct VS offers a similar slipper-like fit with a slightly stiffer last for improved edging. Still, for overhanging climbs and highly technical boulder problems, the precision of the Solution Comp is hard to beat.
Breaking in the Solution Comps was way less painful than we expected, allowing us to move confidently in this soft shoe right out of the box.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
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Rock climbing can take you to some magical places, like our lead tester climbing high above Patagonia. Our review of the best women's climbing shoes will help you find the perfect pair for your next planned trip.
Credit: Nicole Lawton
How We Tested
Our testers spend more time climbing than they probably ought to. Over the past 9 years, we've put countless climbing shoes through the wringer to find the best shoes to meet our specific needs. We purchase each pair and ship them to our expert testers, who painstakingly break them in and test them across every style of climbing. While a jack of all trades may be a master of none, we can at least make well-founded judgments on the performance of each of these shoes in a wide range of climbing styles.
Our climbing shoe testing is divided into five rating metrics:
Our lead tester is Whitney Clark. Whitney spends her summers climbing alpine granite throughout the West and winters in the mountains of Patagonia. She travels for a solid chunk of the year, mostly to climbing destinations. Jane Jackson previously contributed to many of these reviews. At one time a member of Yosemite Search and Rescue, Jane has done her fair share of big wall climbing in Yosemite Valley and spends a lot of her time free-climbing in the High Sierra.
Our lead tester, Whitney Clark, in her element.
Credit: JP
What Makes a Climbing Shoe Women's-Specific?
What is the difference between a woman's climbing shoe and a man's? What are the advantages of a woman's shoe? Are women limited to just the “women's” models? The answer to that question is absolutely not! Women's specific shoes are relatively new to the market, and before that, ladies had to go with men's or unisex models. There are still many shoes in production that only come in a unisex model, and they are fair game, as are the products with the women's-specific label.
We like the ease of use of velcro shoes to give our feet a quick break at the crag.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Aside from the superficial (like color schemes), the defining difference between men's and women's shoes is that they are usually constructed around different lasts (the form matching the foot's anatomy on which a shoe is patterned). The female last will be similar to that of the male version, but typically a bit narrower, especially in the heel. Other differences may include a higher arch, a thinner and longer toe box, and a lower instep. These changes in the last dimensions can enhance the fit for many women, particularly those with low-volume or very narrow feet. Additionally, many women's models are built a bit softer and more flexible, with thinner midsoles or slightly softer rubber compounds (like Vibram XS Grip 2 instead of XS Edge). The lighter you weigh, the less force you put on the rock, and a softer rubber helps climbers feel more of what's underfoot.
From the alpine to the gym, we tested the most popular women's climbing shoes so that we can comparatively rank them based on their overall performance.
Analysis and Test Results
Each time we revamp our women's climbing shoe review, we see more choices available; in fact, the past couple of years have been marked by an increase in the number of women's specific shoes produced by manufacturers. If you have a narrow and/or low-volume foot, this is great news! There are tons of choices out there from all the familiar brands that cater specifically to women. That said, unisex climbing shoes are designed to be just that — unisex. So, don't feel like you are limited solely to women's specific shoes.
The La Sportiva Solution Comp is an outstanding gym shoe, but its utility outside is much more limited to bouldering and overhanging sport routes.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
It should be noted that we have shoes designed for various climbing disciplines, and they've been combined into this one review. This predicament creates problems when trying to perform a comparative analysis. Some shoes are developed just for one specific style of climbing (like crack climbing, for example) and will perform well in that discipline but suffer in another. To address this issue, we have highlighted the differences between the various models and detailed which models are most comparable. If you are looking for a specific style, you can quickly narrow your search.
The price of climbing shoes seems to be increasing each year. Preparing to throw down as much as a few Benjamins for a new pair of shoes, of which the performance and lasting fit are yet unknown, can make the selection process a bit overwhelming. At these prices, we want to make sure that we are getting the right tool for the job. Many of the highest-priced shoes are designed for a specific use and are typically purchased by experienced climbers who want to up their technical climbing game. The La Sportiva Skwama is a bit more versatile than other specifically designed models, but it still costs a pretty penny.
You can tell how much we love the La Sportiva Skwama simply by how old they look after just a few months' worth of testing.
Credit: Whitney Clark
But fear not; there are still many affordable, high-quality shoes on the market, especially at the entry level. The La Sportiva Finale impressed us by balancing serviceable performance with a reasonable price tag. In particular, this shoe is supremely comfortable, which makes it a great option for any newcomer.
Even though it's designed like a classic trad shoe, the Finale's comfort and edging power make it a very reasonable option for long gym days.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
The Five Ten NIAD VCS is another good option for anyone just starting out. It's worth noting that this shoe is quite narrow and not as comfortable for wider feet, but sized up, it can deliver solid, all-around performance. As you go higher in price, the performance typically increases – with more expensive climbing shoes, you'll often find increased specificity, better materials, and design innovations.
The Five Ten VCS has stiff sole, quality sticky rubber, and is good shoe at a lower price point.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
There is a wide price range within the climbing shoe world. It may take some time to figure out which model has the features you need with a price tag you can manage. However, when the toes are wearing thin on your current shoes, buying a new pair of shoes isn't your only option. You can always save some cash by purchasing from a used gear shop or sending your old standbys to a resole company to extend their life.
Comfort
Evaluating the comfort of a climbing shoe is difficult, and many folks have different ideas of what makes a comfortable shoe. Climbing shoes, in general, will be less comfortable than shoes worn around town. Some people size their shoes small to get the tightest fit possible for maximum performance. Others will want a shoe whose fit feels similar to that of a street shoe for all-day comfort. Some shoes are designed to be worn tightly, while others are designed with a relaxed fit – it's often based on the style of climbing the shoe is designed for. We based our evaluation on how closely the shoes hugged our feet, how cramped our toes felt, and the extra features that make a shoe bearable to wear.
Naturally, all the shoes with a flatter shape, like the La Sportiva Finale and the La Sportiva Tarantulace are more comfortable to wear for longer than models with an aggressive downturn. This increased comfort is thanks to the more natural position in which these shoes hold your feet. The NIAD VCS is also fairly flat and comfortable for all-day outings. However, be aware that it is much narrower in the toe than either the Finale or Tarantulace, and unless you size it up, it won't be very comfortable at first.
The NIAD VCS is easy to take on and off, though it's comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Even many slipper models, like the La Sportiva Skwama, once broken in, fit comfortably enough to wear for some time at the gym without taking them off. Its soft sole and sensitivity make it one of our favorites for multi-pitch sport climbing, where both comfort and performance matter.
Although the Skwama is comfy enough for long days, we still like to give our feet a break while hanging at the belay.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Downturned shoes push your toes into the front of the shoe to amplify their power and allow the climber to toe-in on small holds more aggressively. Surprisingly, a few of the most aggressively downturned shoes we tested, such as the La Sportiva Solution Comp, also turned out to be some of the most comfortable. These shoes don't crush your toes, and they have a sock-like tongue that cradles the foot. The La Sportiva Miura VS also features bonus padding on the tongue and around the heel that tightens the fit for women and makes it very pleasant to wear.
Despite its aggressive shape, the snug-fitting Miura VS offers an excellent balance of comfort and power.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Even though Velcro and lace-up shoes can include additional padding, in general, shoes with hook-and-loop closures tend to be much more comfortable – like the La Sportiva Solution, which uses a fast lacing system that lets you fine-tune the fit around your foot and adjust tension quickly. Some shoes, like the Scarpa Instinct VS, are comfortable because they hug your foot, eliminating any dead space. Other shoes with very flat midsoles leave pockets of space under the arch of the foot, which is awkward and uncomfortable. Outside of that generalization, the Katana Lace has a fairly flat midsole, yet still seems to hug the sole of the foot comfortably.
The Katana Lace excels at all styles of climbing, and we bring them almost everywhere we go. Exploring on a recent trip to Kyrgyzstan.
Credit: Whitney Clark
It's important to note that finding a comfortable shoe often depends on the shape of your foot. La Sportiva shoes tend to have a narrower toe box, whereas Scarpa tends to run a tad bit wider. Many of these shoes might be comfortable for one person and uncomfortable for another, so it's really important to size right (and try them on, if you can!).
La Sportiva shoes tend to be narrower in the toe, while Scarpa shoes tend to be a bit roomier.
Credit: Whitney Clark
Smearing
One reason climbers rely on specifically designed climbing shoes rather than sneakers or boots is that the former allow a climber's toes to feel the rock and use minuscule features on the wall. We find that the more sensitive and precise we are, the better we can smear because we can trust our feet as we make delicate moves. Keep in mind that shoes with a stiff construction and lots of rubber around under the toe tend to be less sensitive than shoes with less.
The Solution Comp is one of the most sensitive shoes we've reviewed. Given that it is such a soft shoe, it allows you to feel even the tiniest of footholds and pull with your toes accordingly. Its redesigned and tight-fitting heel cup and improved sensitivity in this part of the shoe allowed us to find subtle features we missed with other shoes.
Oh so sensitive. We can feel the smallest of holds while wearing the Solution Comp.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
The supple, flexible construction of the Skwama is quite sensitive, allowing your foot to move and flex naturally across the rock. Instead of balancing on a stiff edge, the shoe lets your foot spread out, maximizing surface contact for greater friction and stability on slabs and volumes. The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber adds to that confidence, giving you a high-friction feel that grips even when footholds seem almost nonexistent. The split sole design further enhances performance by allowing your foot to bend and maintain constant contact with the surface. This adaptability means the shoe conforms to subtle rock textures instead of resisting them, giving the Skwama its signature secure, “locked-in” feel when smearing on delicate terrain.
With its ability to spread out, you can really press into the rock with the Skwama to confidently smear up long slab pitches.
Credit: Alexa Flower
After a difficult break-in process, we also liked the Butora Acro for its surprising ability to smear, which was particularly helpful on steep sport climbs. Although it is a downturned, aggressive performance shoe built for steep climbing and bouldering, it's rather soft and does really well on those tricky foot placements.
Here, our testers scope the curve of Acro from the toe to the heel.
Credit: Eric Bissell
The Acro is similar to the Scarpa Instinct VS in that, once softened up and the fit is just right, these slightly more aggressive shoes can perform really well for smearing moves. Like the Skwama, the Instinct VS also uses Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. As one of the most trusted rubber compounds for friction climbing, it's tacky enough to trust your feet, even on smooth or slippery surfaces. Again, like the Skwama, the Intinct VS has a split sole design, which helps the shoe conform to the rock as you flex into it, giving you more surface contact than a fully rigid shoe would.
With enough flexibility in the midsole, the Scarpa Instinct VS give you confidence on the most slippery smears.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
On the other end of the spectrum, the Five Ten NIAD VCS and La Sportiva Finale were two of the least sensitive shoes we tested. Their thick rubber, combined with the stiff, inflexible midsole, made it hard to feel any holds beneath our feet.
The 5 mm outsole of the Finale is simply too thick to feel the rock very well. However, it significantly enhances the shoe's durability.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Edging
Edging and sensitivity are similar but apply to different styles of footholds. Sensitivity allows you to smear on and toe into tiny footholds with confidence. Edging, as we define it, is the ability to place a toe on a small edge and have it feel like a much larger feature. This aspect of climbing shoe performance requires a stiffer sole that supports the whole foot when pressing down on thin edges.
The La Sportiva Miura VS is a top-notch edging shoe. Its stiff midsole and slight downturn help toe-in on gently overhanging terrain. At the same time, its shape allows for precision edging on vertical terrain and even slabs. The slingshot rand is connected to the P3 system, which helps deliver consistent edging power. When the toe is weighted on an edge, the climber's weight stretches forward from the heel towards the front of the shoe. The result is that you can stand on edges with your full weight and still feel secure.
The women's Miura VS are a precise yet comfortable shoe for bouldering.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Although it's not the stiffest shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS features Vibram XS Edge rubber in the forefoot and a Flexan midsole. This provides enough structure and tension to stand confidently on tiny footholds. The shoe utilizes a bi-tension active rand that supports and stabilizes your foot under pressure, really helping you stand on those micro edges.
Even off-angle, the Instinct VS lets you keep tension and push through small holds, even if they're made of slippery plastic.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
The Katana Lace was also one of our favorites for edging, especially in vertical terrain. Its stiff midsole keeps the weight over your toes and your foot on the hold. This structure allows you to apply consistent pressure through your toes, reducing fatigue on long, technical routes. The shoe also uses Vibram XS Edge rubber, which is slightly harder than softer rubbers like XS Grip 2, helping it resist caving under pressure.
Figuring out beta and standing on the smallest of holds with the help of our Katana Lace.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
A more affordable option that excels in vertical terrain is the La Sportiva Finale. While this doesn't come close to the same edging capabilities as the Katana Lace, the Finale will get the job done on more moderate routes. It has 5 mm of Vibram XS Edge rubber, which creates a nice platform to stand on. Our issue is that the shoe stretched out after a handful of uses, compromising its edging performance and making it feel sloppier over time.
The flat, stiff design of the Finale makes it nearly ideal for edging on moderate terrain.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
The La Sportiva Solution Comp and the La Sportiva Skwama fell short for serious vertical edging. Although both these shoes excel in other ways, standing on vertical dime edges is not their strong point. The midsole is too soft and, over time, fatigues your feet.
Choosing between shoes that are similar in design, like the Solution Comp (left) and the Skwama (right) can be hard. That's why we're here to help!
Credit: Whitney Clark
Pulling
This metric evaluates how well a given shoe can sink into a rock surface's cavities, allowing you to “pull” into these features with your feet. Often, a pointed-toe shoe excels in this way. Moreover, a shoe with a downturned toe offers the added advantage of hooking pockets on steep to overhanging terrain (as opposed to simply pressing down on them), allowing you to pull your hips in close to the wall for efficient body positioning.
The Solution Comp is our favorite shoe for pulling pockets and steep climbing. This commonality shouldn't be too surprising, considering the similarities in ankle and toe movement across the two techniques. Its aggressive downturned shape, combined with the P3 power platform, helps you keep tension in your toes so you can pull your body close to the wall. Its extended toe rubber patch makes toe hooks feel secure, while the narrower, lower-volume heel improves sensitivity and fit for heel hooks and heel-to-toe cams.
Steep and burly comp-style bouldering is where the Solution Comp shines!
Credit: Luka Krajnc
With its soft design and slight downturn in the toe, the La Sportiva Skwama naturally channels power to your big toe, helping you press or pull into the pockets with control and precision. This shape, combined with their soft rubber, keeps your toes engaged, semi-curled, and locked in when you're pulling on steep terrain.
The Skwama's toe is slightly downturned, making it perfect for digging in and rocking onto those small footholds.
Credit: Will Stanhope
We were surprised at how well the Katana Lace performed on steep routes, but given its narrow toe, it really fits well into pockets. It needs to be broken in to have enough sensitivity, but once it softens, you can better utilize your toes and feel the rock – a crucial element for steep climbing.
For hard boulder problems where moves swap between edging and pulling, the Katana Lace does a great job of splitting the difference.
Credit: Sonja Peltzer
Despite its stiffer midsole, the Scarpa Instinct VS was also great for tackling overhangs. Its aggressive downturn and moderate asymmetry really help transfer weight to the forefoot, allowing you to dig in and draw your body toward the wall. These shoes are a bit more precise than the La Sportiva Miura VS, thanks to a better fit (at least for our feet). The latter fits well into small pockets, but we couldn't achieve the same pulling power.
Women's shoes, like the Instinct VS, are designed to fit a woman's foot and are often narrower in both the heel and the forefoot.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Unsurprisingly, the flatter-soled shoes in this review, such as the La Sportiva Finaleand Five Ten NIAD VCS, do not perform well when toeing into pockets. Their semi-stiff last and symmetrical shape simply performs better in vertical terrain.
Even though it has a tapered, relatively pointed toe, the thick outsole on the Finale makes it difficult to toe into small pockets.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Bear in mind that the pulling evaluation is, in many ways, the polar opposite of the crack climbing assessment. Rather than a stiff platform you can squeeze into a crack and stand up on, shoes that pull well are more flexible, providing additional dexterity for your feet. As such, the shoes that perform poorly on crack climbs are often among the higher performers on pocketed terrain and vice versa. But as with all generalities, there are, of course, notable exceptions to that rule.
While a narrower shoe like the Solution Comp has a slight advantage due to its shape, you don't have to suffer if it doesn't fit your foot. The wider, flatter Instinct VS pulls nearly as well.
Credit: Whitney Clark
Crack Climbing
As the name implies, the crack climbing metric evaluates how well a shoe will perform when jammed into cracks. Sliding your foot into a crack and twisting to the side so you can stand up on it is one of the more unique ways to use your feet while climbing. A good crack shoe has a flatter shape that can fit inside a crack without painfully compressing the knuckles of your toes.
Additionally, these shoes have a stiff platform that supports the whole foot. This prevents lateral taco-ing of a shoe while simultaneously providing enough rubber along the edges to find purchase on the interior and along the edge of a crack. Ideally, a crack shoe will also be decent at edging and smearing since you will likely need to do all of these things on a traditional climb, even if it's just a single pitch.
The Katana Lace leather upper protects your feet during relentless jamming.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
In the past, we turned to the hi-top La Sportiva TC Pro for crack climbing, even though it is not a women's-specific model. However, with the release of the new women's specific La Sportiva Katana Lace, the TC Pro is no longer a frontrunner. Once you break them in, the Katana Lace is stiff yet sensitive and can be sized up for a comfortable all-day shoe or sized tight for more technical climbing. It is our top choice for thin and technical crack climbing. With a narrow toe box, excellent edging abilities, and relative comfort in cracks, the Katana Lace is a more versatile shoe on routes that require a variety of techniques.
Who said techy shoes were just for cragging? Putting the La Sportiva Skwama to the test on cracks in the Bugaboos.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Surprisingly, we also really loved the La Sportiva Skwama for thin crack and corner climbing, where we had to rely on rand smearing rather than pure jamming. The Skwama has a good amount of rubber around the toe, which helps grab onto the granite crystals and provides some extra friction. Although the Katana will keep your foot more protected and is more comfortable to wear in cracks, both shoes climb thin cracks and corners exceptionally well. However, if you're just climbing splitter hand cracks, then the Katana is a better choice.
The Up Lace in their element. The one odd thing about these shoes is the abnormally long laces, but you can figure out ways to solve that issue.
Credit: Jane Jackson
The Unparalell Up Lace LV was also one of our favorites for crack climbing. They are comfortable for extended jamming and feature super-sticky rubber that digs into rock. They perform better in thin, more technical cracks than the La Sportiva Finale, thanks to their narrow toe, which provides better precision. The Finale is more comfortable and better suited for moderate crack routes.
The leather upper on the La Sportiva Finale protects your feet and gives you the support you need for crack climbing.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Similarly, the La Sportiva Miura VS and the Scarpa Instinct VS have a slightly downturned toe, but not enough of a curve to be painful when jammed. This slightly more aggressive shape makes them masters of difficult, finger-sized cracks.
The Miura VS is most at home on steep terrain and is perfect for routes where a chimney leads out to a technical face.
Credit: Babsi Vigil
The Five Ten NIAD VCS are also good crack-climbing shoes, but are much narrower in the toe, which makes extended jamming more painful. These shoes are best reserved for thinner cracks or routes where you can take them off between burns. Shoes with a significant amount of downturn are often uncomfortable when foot jamming. Models like the La Sportiva Comp are best reserved for steep face moves, not crack climbing.
Just another day out testing climbing shoes! Our lead tester is wearing the Katana Lace high above a glacial valley in Kyrgyzstan.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Other Notable Climbing Shoes
Over the years, we've tested a lot of climbing shoes. Even though they didn't make the cut for our favorite shoes, many of them are still readily available and are more than worth your consideration:
La Sportiva Solution – This shoe is tried and true, and has been setting the bar for performance climbing shoes for decades. They are an excellent choice for steep sport climbing and bouldering. It's worth noting that they have a stiffer midsole than the Solution Comp, so if your project requires more edging, this could be a better option.
The Solution set the bar high for women's climbing shoes and continues to be a top performer.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Five Ten Kirigami – For climbers just starting out, this is a reasonable budget buy. It's the least expensive shoe we've tested, and it's super comfortable for all-day wear. If you climb a lot in the gym or are learning on easier terrain outside, the Kirigami is supportive enough for crack climbing and standing on larger holds.
With a synthetic upper and a textile lining, the Kirigami protects your feet while jamming.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
La Sportiva Miura – This shoe has been around for what seems like ages, and it's still a great shoe. Built for techy climbing, the Miura excels on everything from razor-thin cracks to tiny edges and delicate smears. They continue to inspire confidence when the holds are barely there, giving you the precision and security to trust even the smallest features.
The slight downturn and an incredibly stiff midsole allow the Miura to edge with precision in vertical terrain.
Credit: Jane Jackson
La Sportiva Otaki – This is another high-performance shoe that offers plenty of precision, power, and durability — especially for sport climbing and overhangs. Slightly stiffer than the Skwama, the Otaki is an edging machine.
Thes duel Velcro straps on the Otaki make them easy to get on and off - a perfect bouldering shoe!
Credit: Eric Bissell
Scarpa Generator Mid – If wide cracks are your thing, look no further than the Generator Mid. These have ankle protection, a stiff sole, and will keep your feet nice and cosy for hours of jamming hand- and fist-cracks.
The 2mm suede upper on the Scarpa Generator Mid is chromo-free, padded and provides extra comfort.
Credit: Luka Krajnc
Evolv Kira – If comfort is what you're after and you don't want to break the bank, this is a solid, budget-friendly option. The performance and low-volume design are pretty similar to the Five Ten NIAD VCS – similarly, the Kira is also a great entry-level climbing shoe.
The Evolv Kira are an inexpensive option for climbers looking for a basic entry level shoe
Credit: Will Stanhope
Butora Gomi – If you have wider feet and struggle to fit into some of the other low-volume models, the Gomi is a good option. It is a high-performance, downturned climbing shoe that blends aggressive performance with surprising comfort.
The Butora Gomi does a particularly great job on pocketed climbs.
Credit: Eric Bissell
Black Diamond Momentum – This is a comfortable, affordable shoe – you'll see this on many feet based on its price alone. Although this shoe likely won't help you send your project, your feet will be happy while cruising around on moderate terrain for hours on end. This is a good high-volume, but low-performance option.
Shoes with a flatter last, like the BD Momentum, are more comfortable standing in less-than-vertical terrain. Boulders in the Buttermilks made for a great testing ground to gauge performance.
Credit: Will Stanhope
Conclusion
After many days of research, field tests, and analysis of female-specific climbing shoes, we've granted awards to the shoes that are the best in their class and often surpassed our expectations. However, our review comes with an obvious caveat: climbing shoe fit and performance are subjective; what fits one woman like it was custom-made might cause extreme discomfort to another. Take our suggestions with a grain of salt and make your own choices by trying them on before making a purchase. And lastly, don't be afraid to check out all the unisex models. There are plenty of worthwhile shoes that don't come in women's specific versions.
