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Rock climbers need special sticky rubber shoes on the wall, but it helps to have a technical shoe with strategically placed rubber for approaching the climb, too. If you typically hike miles with a heavy pack to approach your climbing objectives, or find yourself scrambling up rugged terrain, you understand what we mean. Approach shoes are designed to be durable enough to hike, scramble, and even do some lite climbing before you change into your rock shoes.
In this review, we compare eight of the best models on the market today in side-by-side tests. We used the shoes to ascend fixed lines, hike with heavy packs, and traverse knife-edge ridges. All the while, our experienced testers took careful notes and compared performance.
Our testers chose the La Sportiva TX Guide as the best approach shoes. They're supportive and comfortable enough for just about any mission, although they fit those with narrow feet best.
If you're interested in climbing ropes or looking for a new climbing harness, we've got you covered. We have also tested just about all the top belay devices on the market.
Our favorite approach shoe is the La Sportiva TX Guide. This shoe can do it all, from climbing moderate rock pitches to hiking through rugged terrain and aid climbing on big walls. It is supportive, lightweight, and precise, excelling in every movement test we threw at it. The sole is perfectly designed for smearing and edging, and the foot locks into place thanks to a narrow lace pattern. These shoes are nimble climbing machines, and they walk and hike pretty well, too.
SPECIFICATIONS
Outsole
Vibram Megagrip
Upper Material
Synthetic TPU, PU
Midsole
Dual-density compressed EVA, TPU Torsion Shank
Weight (per pair)
29.8 oz (size 13)
Mid Height Available
No
It's important to note that this shoe is narrow (a trait we often notice in Sportiva shoes), and wide-footed users report discomfort in the toe box. We also noticed some alarming issues with the construction quality early in our test period. The shoes started to delaminate a bit, which only got worse with extended use over the following year. However, these shoes are still worth the DIY shoe care that might be required because of their jaw-dropping climbing performance, which can eliminate the need to bring climbing shoes for many objectives. If you have narrow or low-volume feet, this is the top shoe we recommend.
The Scarpa Crux nearly matches the performance of the highest-scoring shoes, and it does so at an unbeatable price. High-quality leather and rubber combine to produce a durable approach shoe that outlasts the competition. It climbs well, has plenty of support for long days in the aiders, and offers quality comfort for longer hikes. All of this comes for less than most other approach shoes on the market, making this pair an easy choice for the best value.
SPECIFICATIONS
Outsole
Vibram Megagrip
Upper Material
Leather
Midsole
2D EVA-MP
Weight (per pair)
27.2 oz (size 9.5)
Mid Height Available
No
These shoes are a bit heavier than others, and their leather is stiff compared to shoes that use running shoe-style polyester uppers. There are better shoes out there for hiking long distances, like the La Sportiva TX4, or for clipping to your harness on hard multi-pitch climbs, like the TX2 Evo. But for most days out, the Scarpa Crux gets the job done at an affordable price.
Since our test period, the Crux has been updated with a rand that covers more of the toe box. We're linking to that new model.
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo is a fantastic upgrade to one of the lightest approach shoes on the market. This shoe climbs like a dream, thanks to its thin and sensitive sole, precise toe box fit, and rubber toe cap. These shoes are one step away from being declared full-blown climbing shoes. They are one of the lightest models on the market, and have a thoughtful elastic cord on each heel that can wrap around the nestled pair to create a tight package for hanging on the harness or stuffing into a pack for carrying up a multi-pitch route. If you climb in a venue where short approaches lead to long and difficult routes with tricky walk-off descents, these shoes are unbeatable.
SPECIFICATIONS
Outsole
Vibram Idrogrip
Upper Material
Recycled knit, PU toe & heel
Midsole
Traverse lite injection MEMlex with co-molded TPU shank
Weight (per pair)
26.4 oz (size 13)
Mid Height Available
No
Of course, many features were eliminated to produce such a lightweight shoe. The midsole contains very little padding, so long hikes aren't as comfortable in the TX2 Evo as they are in the TX4. The lightweight knit upper doesn't provide much support and is more susceptible to wear and tear. If you need a shoe for rugged approaches and lots of standing in aiders, these shoes aren't the right choice. But if you want to move light and fast and need a shoe that can accompany you up big routes without weighing you down, the TX2 Evo is a perfect choice.
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo climbs almost as well as a climbing slipper, making it our favorite approach shoe for technical climbing. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Climbs well enough to bust the occasional free moves
CONS
Heavy
The La Sportiva TX4 is a fantastic choice for big wall climbing or when you need to carry big loads. The leather uppers are up to the task of scraping up thousands of feet of granite, while the stiff and supportive midsoles can take you to your dream wall, whether it be roadside or deep in the backcountry. These shoes are comfortable for hiking and standing all day, and they climb well enough for low-5th class terrain and alpine scrambling.
SPECIFICATIONS
Outsole
Vibram Megagrip with Trail Bite heel
Upper Material
Leather
Midsole
Traverse injection MEMlex
Weight (per pair)
26.2 oz (size 9.5)
Mid Height Available
Yes
They aren't the best climbing shoes on the market, and their heavy weight makes them a poor choice for carrying up and over multi-pitch routes where weight is a concern. If that is your primary focus, then the La Sportiva TX Guide offers a much better balance of weight and climbing performance. That said, the TX4 is the shoe we want to be wearing while schlepping heavy loads to the base of El Cap, standing in aiders, performing occasional free climbing moves, and carrying the whole kit back down to the meadow. Are long approaches to remote backcountry objectives in your future? The TX4 has the support and comfort to take you there, heavy pack and all.
TX4 Updated to TX4 Evo
La Sportiva introduced a new version of this shoe last year with some design tweaks, including a new lug pattern. We've yet to test it, but we've seen a number of user reviews from fans of the previous shoe stating that the fit has changed and is now much more narrow. Our affiliate links point to the new TX4 Evo, but our review still references the old TX4.
The Arc'teryx Vertex Alpine is built for the growing segment of climbers who want an approach shoe that is comfortable, capable of light scrambling to get to the crag, and versatile enough to use as a running shoe for fast alpine missions and ridge traverses. When boiled down, this is a good running shoe with sticky rubber to improve security during exposed moves. It is also a great everyday shoe that can double as an approach shoe for rocky trails on the way to the crag.
SPECIFICATIONS
Outsole
Vibram XS Flash 2
Upper Material
Woven polyester
Midsole
EVA/Polyolefin, TPU shank
Weight (per pair)
27.5 oz (size 13)
Mid Height Available
No
We were pleasantly surprised by this shoe's climbing ability, giving us security and confidence to climb exposed and technical terrain. They don't climb as well as more purpose-built approach shoes like the La Sportiva TX Guide, but they climb well enough to be a one-shoe quiver for most easy alpine climbs and ridge traverses. These are the holy grail for mountain runners who also want a shoe that can climb technical terrain with ease.
The Arc'teryx Vertex easily climbs low-5th class terrain and runs like a dream on rough trails. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Product Comparison Table
Matt Wilhelm crosses the Croft Golden Triangle (5.7), one of the Evolution Traverse's more aesthetic sections, while testing approach shoes. Credit: OutdoorGearLab
Why Trust GearLab
Our time-tested approach to gear reviews starts by doing market research on all of the available models and comparing them to the products we have tested over the years. We look at product specifications and design, and draw on anecdotal evidence to select the best products for side-by-side testing. Over months and sometimes years, we approached, scrambled, descended, hiked, schlepped, and slogged in each pair of shoes, as well as performing specific objective tests and climbing selected routes.
Our testing and scoring of approach shoes is divided into five performance metrics:
Climbing Ability (30% of overall score weighting)
Hiking Comfort (25% weighting)
Weight and Packability (20% weighting)
Support (15% weighting)
Construction Quality (10% weighting)
Longtime rock climber and mountain guide Jeff Dobronyi spearheads this review. Jeff lives and breathes rock and alpine climbing, from the canyons and cliffs around his home in Telluride, Colorado, to the granite peaks of the Tetons, Sierra, and European Alps. As an internationally-licensed Mountain Guide, Jeff leads climbing trips around the world, always packing a trusty pair of approach shoes for hiking, climbing, and just walking around the streets of mountain towns everywhere. Whether he's approaching the crag or short-roping guests through complex alpine rock terrain, his life and livelihood often rely on his approach shoes to get the job done and keep him attached to the mountain.
Matt Bento also contributes to this review. A seasoned dirtbag, Matt has traveled around the country in his van and spent countless hours hiking to the base of many crags. Over the last 10+ years, he's dedicated his life to climbing and living in many world-class climbing areas.
Our team hiked with heavy packs and made their way up plenty of routes to test these approach shoes to see which were the best.
Analysis and Test Results
We compare and contrast each model to the most similar products to help you make an informed decision. For each shoe, we identify strengths and weaknesses and share the activities that suit it best. You'll find detailed descriptions of our evaluation metrics and the top scorers in each.
Worse Value
Better Value
What's the Best Value?
In general, the approach shoes in our review are relatively similar in price. That said, there are deals to be had, and some less-expensive options perform nearly as well as much more expensive shoes. The Scarpa Crux offers the best bang for the buck, especially if climbing ability is most important. These shoes climb nearly as well as the best shoes on the market, at a lower price. If you are looking for an inexpensive approach shoe for aid climbing, the La Sportiva Boulder X is a highly supportive and comfortable shoe that excels at standing in aiders and crushing miles on the trail.
The La Sportiva Boulder X is a great value, and performs well in most testing metrics. Credit: Matt Bento
Climbing Ability
The primary reason for wearing approach shoes is to have an advantage in rocky, technical terrain, compared to a running shoe or hiking boot. Good approach shoes enhance our movement abilities in high-consequence terrain and keep us safely attached to the mountain. For that reason, this important metric contributes 30% of each model's overall score.
Earning our highest praise for climbing ability, we find the La Sportiva TX Guide to be the best shoe for smearing, edging, and crack climbing due to its precise, narrow fit and stiff midsole. In this shoe, we can confidently push on small edges, smear on scary slabs, and jam into cracks without fear of popping off the rock. This performance is enhanced by the use of Vibram MegaGrip rubber, which is also found on the La Sportiva TX4 and the Scarpa Rapid and Crux.
The La Sportiva TX Guide is right at home on rock routes where other approach shoes fall short. Credit: Sam Willits
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo performs nearly as well on the rock, offering excellent sensitivity on slabs and tiny holds thanks to its relatively thin sole. It also has a low-profile toe box that can fit into smaller cracks than any other approach shoe on the market. The downside to this thin sole is less hiking comfort, but these slipper-like shoes aren't meant to be worn for long walks. The Scarpa Crux also climbs remarkably well and does so for less money than some of the La Sportiva models.
The La Sportiva TX2 Evo climbs like a climbing shoe, not an approach shoe. Credit: Sam Willits
Often, we find that the approach shoes with good climbing ability are not comfortable when used for long hiking approaches. This is likely due to the fact that thin, yet stiff soles are best for climbing, but thick and flexible soles produce good hiking comfort. The award-winning La Sportiva TX4 and Salewa Wildfire 2 are more comfortable for hiking than the soft climbing-focused approach shoes, yet climb very well nonetheless, and strike a good balance for users who need a shoe that can both climb and hike long distances.
Many approach shoes are great for alpine climbing because they strike a perfect balance between climbing ability and hiking comfort. Credit: Sam Willits
Hiking Comfort
Many crags and alpine routes require long and arduous approaches on rugged backcountry trails. For these objectives, an approach shoe that hikes comfortably might be more important than a shoe that can climb well. Our rating for comfort contributes 25% to each product's overall score. We assess approach shoes for hiking comfort while carrying light loads, not overnight packs.
Comfort is determined largely by how well a particular shoe fits your foot. We try to increase our certainty in this subjective metric by asking for as many user testimonials as possible to determine if the shoe fits a wide range of users or just a minority. We recommend trying on several models to evaluate which fits your foot best while assessing if it's appropriate for your technical needs. It's important to note that there is a compromise when you choose your size. Size down a half or full size from your street shoe, and you'll get better climbing performance, but this can become uncomfortable on long approaches. Beyond selecting a proper fit, and especially if you only plan to buy a single pair, be sure to choose a shoe that's tailored toward how you will use them.
Our favorite approach shoe for narrow feet, the La Sportiva TX Guide, is comfortable enough for a couple miles of hiking on the approach. Credit: Sam Willits
The Scarpa Rapid is our favorite shoe to wear when covering many miles while carrying light loads. This shoe is similar to a robust trail running shoe, with the addition of sticky Vibram MegaGrip rubber to enhance its performance on technical terrain and talus. A thick, cushioned midsole absorbs small roughness on the trail, making backcountry travel a pleasant, comfortable proposition. These shoes are on the wide side, but narrow-footed testers report a good fit for them thanks to the well-designed lace pattern.
A thick, cushioned sole and breathable mesh upper make the Scarpa Rapid a dream for long hikes and trail miles. Credit: Sam Willits
If the terrain becomes more rugged or the packs a bit heavier, the La Sportiva TX4 emerges as the most comfortable hiking shoe in our selection. These shoes feature a comfortable midsole and supportive leather upper, along with a generously roomy fit that can accommodate all foot sizes.
The La Sportiva TX4 has great hiking comfort for long trail approaches. Credit: Matt Bento
The Arc'teryx Vertex Alpine is made for mountain running, and is very comfortable for both long-distance running and hiking in rough terrain. Compared to other running shoes, these have a stiffer heel cup to prevent heel lift and a softer woven upper, making these shoes a dream to wear for hours on end.
The Vertex Alpine is great for navigating rough terrain.
Weight & Packability
Weight is an important concern for approach shoe users because we often have to carry our approach shoes in a pack or clipped to the back of a harness when climbing. And if technical roped pitches aren't part of the day, a heavier shoe will slow us down over the course of an objective, which could lead to less fun, longer recovery times, and, in extreme cases, potential injury. We like our approach shoes light, but the lightest shoes often sacrifice performance.
The La Sportiva TX 2 Evo is the lightest model in our review, weighing in at around 13 ounces per shoe in size 13 (our lead tester has huge feet). Featuring a thin mesh upper and thin rubber sole, these shoes are like slippers, and they climb nearly as well as a climbing slipper. The thin sole adds sensitivity that is hard to find in other shoes that are built for walking long distances. We use these shoes for short approaches to difficult climbs where weight savings are important, and the approach and descent may involve technical moves. They also have elastic bands on each heel midsole that wrap around the shoes when paired together, keeping them in a tight package for clipping to the back of a harness or stuffing them into a pack.
The TX 2 is low-bulk and lightweight enough to clip to your harness for a multi-pitch. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Scarpa Rapid, which is basically a mountain running shoe with sticky rubber, clocks in around 14 ounces per shoe and is also a good option for gram-counters. The La Sportiva TX Guide is relatively lightweight and somewhat packable as well, thanks to a flexible mesh polyester upper.
The best-in-class TX Guide, left, isn't quite as light or packable as our favorite lightweight shoe, the TX2 Evo (right). Credit: Sam Willits
If you only plan on wearing approach shoes to the bottom of the crag, or don't care about weight, most other approach shoes weigh only a little more per pair than the lighter options. For example, the affordable Scarpa Crux is also fairly light and packable, and you probably won't notice the difference between this shoe and the TX Guide. The Salewa Wildfire 2 is about average for weight in the approach shoe market, and feels light and nimble on the trail.
The Salewa Wildfire 2 has an average weight and packability among approach shoes, but it's still plenty light for fast alpine solos, like this one on Mt. Emerson in the Sierra. Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Support
Foot support is important when carrying heavy loads, but even a “rope, rack, and the shirt on your back” weighs a fair bit. A more supportive shoe means less pain when the approaches get long, and your pack gets heavy. Support is also important for a shoe's edging, crack climbing, and aid climbing performance. When standing in slings and aiders for hours on end, you'll want a stiff and supportive outsole to prevent the sling from pinching your feet all day. All else being equal, a more supportive shoe will edge and crack climb better, especially when carrying a heavy pack. The support metric contributes 15% of the total scores.
The most supportive shoe in our review is the La Sportiva Boulder X. It's designed to be stiff for long days standing in aiders on aid climbs and big walls, and won't bend much when standing in a sling. They're great for long hikes, whether or not a technical objective lies at the end.
The La Sportiva TX Guide also has great support for long days on rough trails and standing in aiders. The La Sportiva TX4, our preferred shoe for big wall climbing, has excellent support, in addition to bomber durability, plenty of comfort, and good climbing performance, all attributes needed for the world's largest rock faces. The Scarpa Crux also has plenty of support and costs less than many other products on the market.
Testing for support by standing in slings. Credit: Sam Willits
Construction Quality
Approach shoes take a beating, whether they're crushing miles on backcountry trails, smearing up sharp granite slabs, or scraping against rock while you stand in aiders on a big wall. They are torqued into cracks, bent into crevices in talus fields, and dragged up chimneys while clipped to the back of a harness. They should be built to last a long time and stand up to the abuse that we put them through to a reasonable limit.
The burly and affordable Scarpa Crux is well constructed, and we know plenty of people wearing their Cruxes many years after their initial purchase. The La Sportiva TX4 is well-made with sturdy leather uppers and durable Vibram MegaGrip soles. These shoes can take a beating, as verified by our testers who chuck laps up big walls in Yosemite and Zion. The last thing you want when you're ten pitches up a big wall is for your shoes to fall apart.
Torquing your feet into cracks will destroy the average hiking shoes. The best approach shoes for climbing have leather uppers and a rand that extends above the toe. Credit: Matt Bento
Unfortunately, our favorite approach shoe for narrow feet, the La Sportiva TX Guide, showed some poor construction quality during our test period. Early on, we noticed that both midsoles were delaminating from the uppers on the insides of the big toe. This is disappointing for an otherwise excellent approach shoe, but our concern for their long-term durability was echoed in reports from other professional mountain guides and in our experience after testing them for another year.
The TX Guide was still being broken in when our lead tester noticed some delamination between the midsole (cushion) and toe rand, which could have been a big problem if we had been deep in the backcountry or halfway up a big wall.
We still feel comfortable recommending these shoes for their great performance in other metrics, but we need to warn potential users that they should expect to shoe-glue these soles back onto the shoes at some point during their lifespan.
Testing the best approach shoes is a job that we love to do again and again. Credit: Sam Willits
Conclusion
Choosing the best approach shoes can be daunting, but we've compiled this review to help you sort through the options and choose the right pair for your needs. We tested lightweight shoes that climb like slippers and disappear into a pack, and shoes that will carry you up rugged trails and the biggest walls in the world. Armed with the information we've provided, you should feel confident to start your journey toward finding the perfect pair of approach shoes for your next objective or for your lifestyle. Thanks for reading, and we'll see you in the mountains!
