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Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 Review

A top-of-the-line climbing rope with the most distinct bi-pattern on the market
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Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 Review (It can be a little disconcerting to tie in to some 9.3mm ropes. This was hardly an issue with the Tommy Caldwell Eco...)
It can be a little disconcerting to tie in to some 9.3mm ropes. This was hardly an issue with the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry because the tight weave of the sheath inspires confidence.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Price:  $340 List
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Manufacturer:   Edelrid
By Jeff Dobronyi ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Oct 30, 2024
76
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#3 of 13
  • Handling - 30% 8.0
  • Durability - 25% 6.0
  • Versatility - 20% 9.0
  • Features - 15% 8.0
  • Weight - 10% 7.0

Our Verdict

A clear middle mark enhances safety and efficiency, and the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3's bi-pattern sheath design is the best middle mark out there. This svelte line is built for sending and features the most distinct bi-pattern design that we've ever seen. Our testers love the handling supplied by its especially dense weave. The same weave also demonstrated superior durability compared to many ropes with similar diameters. The diameter is right in the sweets spot for maximum versatility, and this rope can be used for everything from top-roping to alpine climbing. It excels in single-pitch use and is one of our favoite ropes for sport climbing. Take care, however, because this rope can be dangerously slick before it gets broken in. Compare it to top competitors in our review of the best climbing ropes.
REASONS TO BUY
Clear bi-pattern
Highly versatile
Good handling
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Slippery at first
Editor's Note: After retesting this rope among others, we updated this review to reflect our new findings on October 30, 2024.

Compare to Similar Products

 
Awards Top Pick Award
Best Bi-Pattern Rope
Editors' Choice Award
Best Overall Rock Climbing Rope
Top Pick Award
Best for Alpine Climbing
Best Buy Award
Best Bang for the Buck
Top Pick Award
Best for Multi-Pitch
Price $232.39 at REI
Compare at 2 sellers
$149.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 4 sellers
$209.99 at Amazon
Compare at 2 sellers
$109.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$250 List
$219.95 at Backcountry
Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Bottom Line The most distinct bi-pattern we've seen combined with excellent performance and handlingNo rope does a better job of including all the attributes we want – durability, great handling, and a reasonable priceThe best lightweight rope for alpine climbing on the marketAn excellent deal on an environmentally friendly and high-performance ropeThis rope hits the sweet spot between weight and durability for long multi-pitch routes
Rating Categories Edelrid Tommy Caldw... Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla... Beal Opera Mammut 9.5 Crag We... Beal Joker
Handling (30%)
8.0
9.0
10.0
9.0
8.0
Durability (25%)
6.0
8.0
6.0
8.0
6.0
Versatility (20%)
9.0
8.0
4.0
7.0
7.0
Features (15%)
8.0
7.0
9.0
5.0
9.0
Weight (10%)
7.0
6.0
10.0
6.0
8.0
Specs Edelrid Tommy Caldw... Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla... Beal Opera Mammut 9.5 Crag We... Beal Joker
Length Tested (m) 70 60 60 70 60
Diameter (mm) 9.3 9.5 8.5 9.5 9.1
Weight (g/m) 57 59 48 58 53
Lengths Available (m) 60, 70, 80 50, 60, 70, 80 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 50, 60, 70, 80, 100, 200
Dry Coating Option Eco Dry Classic, Dry Dry Cover, Golden Dry Classic, Dry Dry Cover, Golden Dry
Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option Bi-pattern, middle mark Bi-pattern, middle mark Middle mark Middle mark Middle mark
Certified Use Single Single Single, Half, and Twin Single Single, Half and Twin
UIAA Number of Factor 1.77 Falls 7 6 5 (single), 20-22 (half), >25 (twin) 6 5 (single), 20 (half), >25 (twin)
Impact Force (kN) 9 7.7 7.3 (single), 5.5 (half), 8.8 (twin) 7.7 8.2 (single), 6.0 (half), 9.5 (twin)
Static Elongation % (in use) 7.4 7.5 8.4 (single), 8.4 (half), 5.1 (twin) 7.5 8.5 (single), 8.4 (half), 5.0 (twin)
Dynamic Elongation % (first fall) 34 33 36 (single), 32 (half), 28 (twin) 33 35(single), 32 (half), 28 (twin)
Sheath Proportion % 39 42 38 42 35
Calculated Weight of Sheath (g/m) 22 24 18 24 19

Our Analysis and Test Results

One look at this rope, and users will notice the distinct bi-pattern sheath. Apart from this obvious feature, the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry 9.3 also has great handling, above-average durability, and excellent versatility. It's a great cord, and might be the only one you need, if you can afford the high price tag.

Performance Comparison


edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3 - the tommy caldwell eco dry is a 9.3mm rope that's ideal for...
The Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry is a 9.3mm rope that's ideal for experienced climbers searching for a light, everyday rope to push the grades.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Handling


The Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry has a dense sheath weave that keeps the circular shape of the rope in tact. It also feels slippery out of the packaging, making it easy to clip to quickdraws and carabiners. The supple feel makes it easy to tie knots and hitches. Overall, this is one of the best-handling ropes out there.


When feeding the rope through a belay device, lowering someone with an assisted-braking device, and coiling the rope, we loved how supple this model is. Over time, it gets even softer and more supple, but not so much that we lose confidence in its durability. We should warn potential users that it did feel dangerously slippery when brand new. This slick feel dissipated after 15 pitches, but be careful trusting your life to an inexperienced belayer until this rope has been properly broken in.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3 - the 2-over-2 weave on this rope is unusually tight and dense. this...
The 2-over-2 weave on this rope is unusually tight and dense. This ensures that it maintains its great handling and a consistently circular shape (in cross-section).
Credit: Jack Cramer

Durability


Compared to its peers at similar diameters, the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry shows superior durability. The tight sheath weave helps prevents snags on sharp edges and crystals. Throughout our test period, this rope resisted sheath wear, though we did notice some fuzz after whipping repeated at the crux of a project. Overall, this rope is plenty durable for regular sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing.


One potential reason for this models high durability is its dense sheath weave. By our calculations, the 39% sheath proportion equates to 22 grams of sheath per meter. That's more than several competitors with thicker diameters ranging all the way up to 9.8mm. The dense weave of the sheath also seemed to resist damage better than looser sheaths on similarly sized ropes. On the other hand, this rope has a propensity to attract dirt and grime more than others. This darkened the color of the rope and left our hands sooty. If left unwashed, the particles in grime have the potential to accelerate wear to the fibers.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi

Versatility


The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 nails the sweet spot for versatility. At 9.3 millimeters in diameter, this rope is useful for everything from top-roping and gym climbing to alpine climbing and hard multi-pitch routes. It excels in sport climbing and single-pitch trad climbs, but it can be used for anything, even ice and mixed climbing, thanks to its dry treatment. In this market, where rope specialization is prevalent, it can be easy to think that climbers need a different rope for each style of climbing. This rope proves that it's still possible to purchase one rope that can do it all.


This rope isn't the most ideal choice for use around the margins. For example, rough uses like aid climbing and industrial top-roping will wear out this rope quickly. It's significantly heavier than the lightest and skinniest ropes on the market, so it's not the best for alpine climbing, but it still works.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3 - catches with the tommy caldwell eco dry 9.3 felt firmer than many...
Catches with the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry 9.3 felt firmer than many ropes that share the same diameter and on par with some mid-9mm ropes.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Features


The defining feature of the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 is it's distinct bi-pattern sheath design. A clear middle mark has a few advantages. First, it makes it easy to see when a climber leading a single-pitch route has climbed past the point of being able to lower back to the ground. Climbers should always tie knots in the tail of their rope when single-pitch climbing to prevent lowering off the end of the rope, but the bi-pattern on this rope adds a layer of security. Second, climbers need to quickly find the middle mark of a rope when setting up a top rope or single-rope rappel. This bi-pattern makes it easier and faster to find the middle mark. When thunderclouds are building nearby and you need to descend from a multi-pitch route quickly, it's nice to pull the rope without concern for passing the middle mark.


Additional features include three length options from 60 to 80 meters, and a decent dry treatment. The length options are somewhat limiting if you are looking for a shorter rope, but it's not a problem for most users. The dry treatment works alright, but there are much better dry treatments on the market. Since the colorful sheath pattern is part of the rope's allure, there are no other color options. The rope comes in a circular coil, but the packaging is set up for the user to pull the rope out of a hole and into a stack that reduces factory twists. This feature works pretty well.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3 - with half of the rope pink and the other half blue, it has never...
With half of the rope pink and the other half blue, it has never been easier to spot the middle on a climbing rope.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Weight


At 57 grams per meter, the Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry 9.3 falls squarely into the middle of the pack for weight. It also aligns with other ropes of a similar diameter. At 60 meters in length, the rope weighs 7.54 pounds (3.42 kilograms). The 70-meter length weighs 8.8 pounds (3.99 kilograms) and the 80 meter length weighs 10.05 pounds (4.56 kilograms).


This rope is light enough for most uses, but devout alpine climbers will probably think this rope is too heavy. Some sport climbing ropes are lighter, but the low friction from the dense sheath weave should reduce rope drag enough to cancel out the extra heft. At the same time, the added weight and durability can encourage you to take more whips than you might be willing to on a skinnier cord. It's heavy enough to inspire confidence and handle abuse but still lightweight enough for when things get strenuous.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi

Should You Buy The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3?


This is a premium rope with a premium price. It is probably difficult for newer climbers to justify such a high price tag. That said, it's one of the most versatile ropes on the market, and for many users, will be the only rope they need. It handles well and is relatively durable. From the gym to the crag to multi-pitch and alpine routes, this rope is a versatile machine, and it has a clear middle mark to help prevent accidents. For those reasons, this rope justifies the price tag.

edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3 - the edelrid tommy caldwell eco dry colortec 9.3's claim to fame is a...
The Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3's claim to fame is a clear middle mark where the rope turns from pink to blue.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi

What Other Climbing Ropes Should You Consider?


This rope has the best middle mark bi-pattern, hands down. If that feature isn't important to you, the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS is another versatile rope in the same diameter and weight class that costs a lot less. If you're looking for something a little more durable, but that can also handle lots of use, the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic and Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Classic are both great for single-pitch climbing, and can be found for a fraction of the price. If you want an even lighter rope for multi-pitch routes, the Beal Joker is our favorite for long climbs, and the Beal Opera is the best for alpine climbing.

Jeff Dobronyi