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If you're planning to climb outside, wearing a helmet is a good idea. There's always the possibility of being struck in the head by rockfall or slamming your head into the wall after an out-of-control fall. We purchased 14 of the best climbing helmets and tested them side-by-side. No matter your preferred climbing style, there are solid helmets available at every price point.
Our climbing helmet of choice is the Black Diamond Vision Mips. It scores a bit lower overall than the Petzl Sirocco, our favorite lightweight helmet. However, the tradeoff of increased durability and the Mips cradle for improved safety is worth the slight weight penalty.
If you're looking for your first helmet, we recommend the Black Diamond Capitan. This is a super tough, modern climbing helmet at an unbeatable price point. If you're looking for an upgrade, it's worth comparing the Capitan against the Petzl Meteor.
Editor's Note: We updated our climbing helmet review on September 10, 2025, after retesting helmets from Petzl and Black Diamond, and adding new helmets from Black Diamond and Edelrid.
We consider the Black Diamond Vision Mips the best climbing helmet on the market today. One tester says, “It's the most comfortable climbing helmet I've ever worn.” The addition of the Mips (Multi-directional Impact Protection System) harness – technology that is now standard in both bike and ski helmets – reportedly reduces the chances of concussion by deflecting certain impacts and reducing impact forces. We see no reason this technology should not become standard in climbing helmets. The Vision Mips is also really comfortable, highly adjustable, and well-ventilated. We reach for this helmet the most often for our personal climbing and guiding, which just goes to show how versatile and comfortable this helmet is.
SPECIFICATIONS
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
9.7 oz
Shell Style
EPP and EPS Foam, ABS Shell, with MIPS Liner
Certifications
EN 12492, UIAA
The Mips harness and more durable ABS shell make this helmet heavier than most other foam options. That said, we don't really feel the weight difference over a long day of climbing, and the added durability and protection are well worth the weight increase. “It still certainly feels lighter than any helmets that use a full hard-shell design,” says the same tester. If you're looking for the lightest-weight helmet on the market, check out the Petzl Sirocco — just know that it's not as durable as the Vision Mips. The technology incorporated into the Vision increases the price, but we don't consider the price outrageous compared to other high-end foam helmets. If you want great protection coupled with comfort and adjustability, it's an easy decision in our books.
Mips works by allowing the helmet to rotate freely without pulling the user's head with it, absorbing the rotational force of side impacts and collisions.
The Black Diamond Capitan is a reasonably priced, highly durable helmet that is quickly becoming the go-to first helmet for the modern climber. It provides some of the best protection of any helmet we tested, while improving upon the comfort of classic entry-level helmets like the Black Diamond Half Dome and Petzl Boreo. Better yet, it's better performing but only a few dollars more than the other price-point helmets we tested. “No matter what I did to this helmet – whether I tossed it in a haul bag or squeezed it through a tight chimney – the 2-part ABS shell protected the foam from cracking,” claims our lead tester. That durability alone makes this helmet a worthy consideration for folks looking to make the most of their money.
SPECIFICATIONS
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
11.5 oz
Shell Style
2-piece ABS shell, EPP foam and an EPS foam puck
Certifications
EN 12492, UIAA
As is standard among all hardshell helmets, the Capitan's weight leaves something to be desired. Weighing in at 11.5 ounces, it's almost twice as heavy as the ultralight Petzl Sirocco. “This difference is notable, especially when you've had a long day, or rather, several long days, on a route,” explains one tester. Another trade-off for the increased durability of a hardshell helmet is ventilation. The 2-part ABS shell and the thick, high-coverage foam don't do the Capitan any favors in this regard. We particularly noticed the difference between this and other foam helmets while climbing in the direct sun, which isn't always avoidable on a big wall or alpine route. If you spend a lot of time climbing in places like the desert Southwest, it's worth considering an upgrade to a lighter, better ventilated helmet like the Petzl Meteor. That said, for the frugal climber, the Capitan's approachable price point likely outweighs these few critical points.
The Black Diamond Capitan is a truly durable, comfortable workhorse available at a low price.
The Petzl Meteor balances low weight and durability with affordability. It features a hard-shell design with a polycarbonate plastic shell covering the entire helmet. This shell adds significant durability compared to more expensive, exposed foam designs, but it isn't as heavy as shells that use ABS plastic. “The Meteor is light enough for all-day use, yet durable enough to withstand plenty of abuse,” one tester aptly put it. The best part is that this minimalist helmet is affordable enough for climbers on a budget who also want a high-performance helmet.
SPECIFICATIONS
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
8.5 oz
Shell Style
EPS, Polycarbonate
Certifications
EN 12492, UIAA
The Meteor is easily adjustable via a plastic slider bar on the back of the head. Still, this system isn't as comfortable as the lightweight fabric straps that the most comfortable helmets use. “It has tons of ventilation holes for climbing when the weather is hot or when you are sweating,” points out one tester, making it a great choice for warm summer days at the crag. It isn't as cheap as the BD Capitan, or as light as the lightest helmets, like the Petzl Sirocco, but instead presents an attractive balance between the two.
We love the Petzl Meteor for any style of climbing, from big walls to sport climbing on hot days. It's lightweight with good ventilation, great adjustability, and an affordable price tag to boot.
The Petzl Sirocco is almost the perfect climbing helmet. “It's so lightweight and comfortable that I sometimes forget I'm wearing it,” one tester admitted. It is protective enough to be a companion for everything from single-pitch sport cragging to long, complex alpine objectives. It has a small hard-shell patch on the very top of the head to protect from falling objects, and high-quality foam around the sides to protect against lateral impacts. The fit is perfect, with a lightweight and comfortable fabric harness system for the head that offers plenty of adjustability. And, of course, plenty of vents increase airflow on hot days.
SPECIFICATIONS
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
6.1 oz
Shell Style
EPP and EPS Foam, Polycabonate Top Piece
Certifications
EN 12492, UIAA
The Sirocco has some downsides, including price and durability. The exposed foam is particularly susceptible to damage, and although this helmet lasts a decently long time, we notice that dings and dents tend to add up over time. It also costs a lot of money, and this significant investment will eventually be damaged and need replacement, even without sustaining a major impact. Qualms aside, this is the helmet you will see on many professionals for a good reason. No matter what kind of climbing you engage in, the Sirocco is optimal. The Black Diamond Vapor and Edelrid Salathe Lite are similarly lightweight, with the Salathe Lite being a touch more durable and the Vapor offering a bit better ventilation. Still, we prefer the Sirocco's profile and overall more comfortable fit.
The Smith Summit Mips is the best dual-certified climbing and skiing helmet currently on the market. It stands out from the competition for its pristine comfort and perfect fit. This helmet is more comfortable to wear than any other we have ever tested, thanks to a cocoon-like BOA adjustment mechanism and a shape that cradles your head. Thanks to the mostly ABS plastic shell, it can take a beating, ensuring your investment will last. The Mips interior liner adds considerable protection against head injuries and also increases comfort by improving airflow. If you are a backcountry skier who climbs occasionally, this helmet is a great choice.
SPECIFICATIONS
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
14.4 oz
Shell Style
In mold, Koroyd
Certifications
ASTM F 2040, EN 1077 (2007 CLASS B), EN 12492
Unfortunately, this helmet is heavy compared to other climbing-specific helmets, making it a poor choice for high-performance climbing and big days on the rock. Due to the design of the BOA system, it lacks a wide range of sizing adjustments, so double-check those size measurements before ordering. It also carries an astronomical price tag. But purchasing this helmet instead of two separate climbing and skiing helmets might save you some money. If you don't need a helmet rated for skiing but like the idea of a Mips helmet, check out the Black Diamond Vision Mips, one of our overall favorites.
We hesitate to use most ski helmets for climbing, but the Smith Summit Mips is equally capable at the crag or on the slopes.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Compare Product Specifications
Specifications
Petzl Sirocco
Black Diamond Vision Mips
Edelrid Salathe Lite
Petzl Meteor
Black Diamond Vapor
Mammut Wall Rider Mips
Smith Summit Mips
Black Diamond Capitan
Edelrid Salathe
Petzl Boreo
Black Diamond Half Dome
Black Diamond Capitan Mips
Singing Rock Penta
CAMP Storm
Awards
Best Lightweight Climbing Helmet
Best Overall Climbing Helmet
Best Value for a Lightweight Helmet
Best Dual-Rated Climbing Helmet
Best Bang for the Buck
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L)
6.1 oz
9.7 oz
6.7 oz
8.5 oz
6.3 oz
9.0 oz
14.4 oz
11.5 oz
7.7 oz
11.0 oz
12.7 oz
12.0 oz
7.2 oz
8.8 oz
Shell Style
EPP and EPS Foam, Polycabonate Top Piece
EPP and EPS Foam, ABS Shell, with MIPS Liner
Curv thermoplastic shell, ultra-light EPP core
EPS, Polycarbonate
ALUULA Composite, Polycarbonate, Molded EPP Foam
EPP Foam, Hard Plastic Top Piece
In mold, Koroyd
2-piece ABS shell, EPP foam and an EPS foam puck
Foam-Injected EPP Core, Partial ABS Hard Shell
ABS Shell with EPP and EPS Foam
EPS Foam with ABS Shell
2-Piece ABS Shell - EPP Foam/EPS Foam Puck
Polycarbonate Shell, EPS Foam
Polycarbonate Shell, EPS Foam
Certifications
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492, PCSR-002 11.2019 (CE-certified for ski touring)
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492
ASTM F 2040, EN 1077 (2007 CLASS B), EN 12492
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492, PCSR-002 11.2019 (CE-certified for ski touring)
EN 12492, UKCA, UIAA
EN 12492, UIAA
EN 12492
EN 12492
EN 12492
The Kain Ridge on Bugaboo Spire is an amazingly easy route for the location, topping out at 5.6, allowing us to enchain it with Snowpatch Spire in the background on the same day. The lightweight Petzl Sirocco helped protect us from the potential of falling debris, while not costing us much in weight in the pack during the long approaches.
How We Tested
After researching the market, we purchased 13 of the top climbing helmets available today. Our helmet testing takes place in real-world situations — that is, on the rock. We wear these helmets daily while climbing long routes and while single-pitch cragging, often bringing multiple helmets along so that we can compare them one after the other. We also lend them to friends and climbing partners to get opinions from many different people with different head sizes/shapes. Ultimately, we combined these experiences with measurable data to assess performance characteristics and formulate our overall ratings. Thanks to our intensive analysis and hands-on testing, you can be sure we recommend the very best climbing helmets.
Our climbing helmet testing is divided into six rating metrics:
Comfort (30% of total score weighting)
Adjustability (20% weighting)
Weight (20% weighting)
Ventilation (10% weighting)
Features (10% weighting)
Durability (10% weighting)
For more information on our testing process and criteria, see our How We Test article.
Andy is a well-seasoned climber with decades of experience under his belt. A former guidebook author and publisher, he has spent most of his life climbing small and tall rocks worldwide. He lives in the mountains of southern Colorado.
Jeff is an IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Boulder, Colorado. He climbs and skis around the world for fun and work, always with a trusty helmet in tow.
Cam is a well-traveled rock warrior who has been climbing for over 20 years. Currently based in Las Vegas, she frequents the big, colorful walls of never-ending multi-pitch heaven in Red Rocks. Before this, she spent many years climbing Yosemite's granite walls and working on Yosemite Search and Rescue.
Brooke is a climber of all types. After cutting her teeth on El Capitan and spending time working on Yosemite Search and Rescue, she went on to be a climbing ranger on Mt. Rainier before chasing winters as an avalanche forecaster. She's climbed in ranges from Alaska to Patagonia.
In addition to testing by our lead reviewers, helmets were given out to friends, both professional and amateur climbers, to use on all sorts of climbs, from long multi-pitch to overhung bolted routes.
We field-tested all of these helmets by doing exactly what you think we should do: go climbing!
Analysis and Test Results
Wearing a climbing helmet is never a bad idea. Regardless of which model you decide to buy, it won't do you any good if you don't wear it. This is why it's important to get one that matches your needs. We reviewed plenty of great options, so you'll surely find the right helmet for your style. To determine the best models, we assessed these helmets across six important characteristics: comfort, adjustability, weight, ventilation, features, and durability.
For an in-depth walkthrough of how to choose the right climbing helmet, check out our Buying Advice article.
Worse Value
Better Value
What's the Best Value?
Climbing helmets range from affordable to downright expensive. In general, you get what you pay for. The best helmets incorporate features like EPP foam, Mips technology, and lightweight shell components. All of these additional features contribute to a helmet's price tag. Unfortunately, the best climbing helmets shave weight by limiting the hard shell component to just the top of the head, which leaves foam exposed around the sides. This foam will get dented and punctured over time during normal use, like packing the helmet into a backpack and banging your head against the sides of a chimney while climbing. The more durable options tend to be less expensive but aren't as pleasant to use, especially if you get out often.
Trad climbing requires an investment in some expensive gear. Fortunately, the price point and durability of the BD Capitan mean you don't have to skimp on quality to save a few bucks.
Credit: Brooke Maushund
That said, you don't have to break the bank to purchase a well-performing helmet. The Black Diamond Capitan is one of the most protective helmets we tested, all at a very low price point, making it the best value helmet on the market. The Petzl Boreo is very similar to the Capitan in performance and price. We also like the durability, affordability, and relative comfort of the Petzl Meteor. The Meteor costs a bit more than the most basic models, but it's lightweight enough to contend with the top-performing helmets in our review.
The Petzl Meteor is a light, durable, and comfortable helmet, and costs a lot less than its nearest competitors.
Credit: Andy Wellman
Comfort
Comfort is the most important consideration when choosing your new helmet. Most helmets, especially those made of foam, are molded into a specific shape, and even with adjustable harnesses that help you adapt the fit, you will never be able to change the shape of the helmet. Some helmets are deep and oblong, while others are shallower or rounder. Since we all have different head shapes, what fits one person perfectly may not work for someone else. This fact also makes grading for this metric rather subjective, so we were sure to talk to as many people as possible to nail down what folks liked and didn't like about each model.
The harness system inside the helmet is a critical component of comfort since it tightens against the back and sides of the user's head. If any plastic components stick out into the user's scalp, comfort will obviously suffer. We love the fabric patch on the BOA tightening knob of the Smith Summit Mips. This patch is pulled snugly against the back of the head when tightening, cocooning the head in soft, velvety comfort. “The fit feels perfectly tailored to my head,” lead tester Jeff Dybroni says, also calling the Summit Mips “one of the most comfortable helmets on the market for any alpine sport.”
The Smith Summit Mips features a super comfortable felt-lined fabric patch that tightens around the back of the head with a BOA click wheel.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Petzl Sirocco is an all-star for all-day comfort. It's well-ventilated, with a deep and ever-so-slightly oblong shape, supported by a minimalist harness system inside the helmet. It is also the lightest helmet we've ever tested, which is the main reason it's so comfortable to wear all day. Removable pads cushion your head against the foam helmet, and these pads can be removed and washed when they get too sweaty. Many helmets, including the Sirocco, come with two sets of pads.
The Sirocco offers plenty of adjustability and ample padding in just the right places to make this a particularly comfortable head bucket.
Credit: Brooke Maushund
The Edelrid Salathe Lite also received a near-perfect score for overall comfort. This is because, well, the Salathe Lite and Sirocco are almost equally ultralight and feature nearly identical harness systems inside the helmet. With the same general features as the Sirocco, the Salatha Lite is comfortable and light enough that you forget it's there. It only falls short of the Sirocco's score because the foam is slightly bulkier, and this helmet bobbles a bit more than the Sirocco.
The Salathe Lite is surprisingly similar to the Petzl Sirocco, with padding only on the top and front of the helmet. The rest is left up to the internal harness that cradles your head.
Credit: Brooke Maushund
The Black Diamond Vision Mips is also super comfortable, thanks to a low-profile plastic ratcheting adjustment band and a well-contoured shape that can rest comfortably on top of any head. It also has a Mips slip liner, allowing the helmet to pivot without rubbing against the top of the head. This increases comfort and protection.
The Black Diamond Vision Mips tightens comfortably with a sliding plastic bar. There are no sharp points or pieces that cut into the back of the head.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Another comfortable choice is the Mammut Wall Rider Mips, which also features a lightweight harness and offers a similar amount of ventilation to the Petzl Sirocco. However, the shell is a bit more round and it fits more shallowly on the head. If your head isn't the ideal shape for the Sirocco, you may have better luck with the Wall Rider Mips. Also popular among testers for comfort are the lightweight and very well-ventilated Black Diamond Vapor and Petzl Meteor.
Fabric straps are generally the most comfortable tightening devices, shown here on the Mammut Wall Rider.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring
Adjustability
Climbing helmets must be adjustable to fit each user's head properly. A secure fit increases security, comfort, and climbing ability. When considering adjustability, we looked for plenty of room for adjustment in the helmet's size and how well the size adjustment mechanisms work.
Manufacturers employ three methods for adjusting each helmet's circumference: a click-wheel, a plastic slider bar, or lightweight straps and buckles. Using only straps and buckles provides the lightest solution, but usually the least adjustability. Plastic slider bars allow more length adjustment. But they can be difficult to figure out without looking, and also introduce plastic components that might stick out into the user's head, which would, of course, decrease comfort. Click wheels often provide the largest adjustment range and are the easiest to adjust. Additional adjustment features include the V-yoke that comes down on either side of your ears to join the chin strap.
Fabric straps, like those featured on the Mammut Wall Rider Mips, are one type of length adjustment mechanism. They are the lightest and most comfortable, but often have the least length of adjustability.
The Black Diamond Half Dome is one of the most adjustable helmets in this review and is also one of the easiest to adjust. It uses a click wheel at the back that makes tightening or loosening the fit simple. It also has easily adjustable straps on the V-yoke and chin. We give it top honors in this department because even the tensioning band that the click wheel is attached to can be adjusted up or down along two pieces of webbing to accommodate hair better.
The Black Diamond Half Dome is easy to adjust by a rubberized click wheel that tightens around the back of the head.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Petzl Meteor is the most adjustable and easiest to use among the lighter-weight helmets. It incorporates a plastic slider bar to adjust the sizing and a sliding V-yoke adjustment mechanism to adjust the chin strap. The Black Diamond Vision Mips also uses a plastic slider bar with plenty of length adjustment but no V-yoke adjustment. The Petzl Sirocco also has good adjustment via a fabric strap and sliding V-yoke strap.
Comparing the plastic sliding bars of the Petzl Meteor (left) and the Black Diamond Vision Mips (right).
Weight
Climbing is a battle against gravity, so the weight of your equipment matters. Shaving a couple of ounces on each piece of gear can add up to pounds over your whole kit, which might mean the difference between sending your project and flailing at the crux – or worse, falling in dangerous terrain. Weight is also a key factor in comfort since we're often craning to look upwards while belaying, especially when cragging.
The Petzl Sirocco and Black Diamond Vapor are the lightest helmets on the market, weighing just over 6 ounces each. These helmets achieve such a low weight by minimizing the amount of hard shell material used and employing light fabric harnesses with relatively small ranges of adjustment. They are perfect for any type of climbing: from sport climbing to trad, ice, and mixed routes. You will find these on the heads of world-class alpinists who count every gram.
When the route is long, you'll be happy you're wearing an ultralight helmet like the Salathe Lite.
Credit: Brooke Maushund
Other exposed foam designs, like the Edelrid Salathe Lite, Black Diamond Vision Mips, and Petzl Meteor, also weigh less than most helmets on the market. Among the hard shell helmets, the Singing Rock Penta stands out for its incredibly low weight of just 7.2 ounces, thanks to its thin polycarbonate shell.
The Petzl Meteor weighs a lot less than other hard shell helmets, while also providing more durability than exposed foam designs.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Ventilation
Even in cooler temperatures, it's easy to work up a sweat while climbing. Our heads are one of the crucial points where we vent heat while exerting ourselves, which is why you get hot while climbing in helmets: the helmet's protective foam adds insulation to the top of your head.
To combat this insulating effect, ventilation holes are needed to allow hot air to escape and cooler air to flow through the helmet, enhancing evaporative cooling. The helmets with more vent holes provide better airflow, and holes on the front of the head are key for moving air past the scalp.
Enjoying the ledge at the top of a multi-pitch route with Alpinist Editor Derek Franz, wearing the BD Vision Mips. The high-quality airflow of this helmet is a welcomed reprieve on a hot day.
Credit: Andy Wellman
Ventilation-wise, the standout helmets are definitely the Black Diamond Vapor and Petzl Sirocco. Their designs are the most open of any of the exposed foam models we tested and provide superb ventilation. The Edelrid Salathe Lite, Petzl Meteor, and CAMP Storm also feature plenty of vents. But these helmets were notably a touch warmer than the top two, especially in the direct sun.
The Black Diamond Vapor has the best ventilation on the market. It's vents are huge, and the foam floats above the user's scalp, allowing plenty of airflow.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Among the ski-certified helmets, we were pleasantly surprised by the ventilation capabilities of the Smith Summit Mips. Although it has small vents to pass the ski certification tests, the vents are well placed around the entire head to facilitate airflow.
The Smith Summit Mips has well-placed vents that allow more airflow than they might seem to provide at first glance.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Features
Climbing helmets don't need too many bells and whistles, but they do need to accommodate a headlamp for pre-dawn starts and deep, dark chimneys. They also might need to accommodate goggles for wintertime objectives. Newer features like the Mips slip liner are notable additions to many modern helmets. We examined all of the available features on each helmet and tested how well they work.
Headlamp attachments are usually composed of two lightweight plastic clips around the front of the helmet that keep the bulb component in place squarely on the forehead. Sometimes, helmets incorporate additional clips in the rear or an elastic band doubling as a goggle clip. We love the combination of large plastic clips on the front and the elastic strap on the rear of the Black Diamond Vision Mips that easily accommodates goggles. The Mips liner completes the perfect set of features on this helmet. Other helmets incorporating two front clips and a rear elastic strap are the Petzl Sirocco and Black Diamond Capitan, Petzl Meteor, the Black Diamond Vapor, and the Edelrid Salathe Lite.
The combination of oversized headlamp clips and an innovative Mips liner make the BD Vision Mips one of the most feature-forward helmets we tested.
The clips on the Petzl Boreo, Black Diamond Half Dome, Black Diamond Capitan Mips, and CAMP Storm are the simplest and most natural to use. Each of these helmets incorporates four plastic clips, one on each corner of the helmet. A headlamp effectively stays in place all day, and it's super easy to slide the strap up under the clips to secure it in place.
A front and back view of the four well-designed headlamp clips on the CAMP Storm.
Durability
Climbing helmets are designed to protect your head from falling objects, but their protective materials are generally designed to deform from a serious impact. Most climbing helmets can withstand a few small-sized rocks or a couple of good-sized chunks of ice, but will need replacement after any big hit. We look for something that can hold up to the normal wear and tear of loose rocks, roofs you didn't see coming (bonk!), and a modest amount of ice shelling without needing replacement. We also want something we can pack in our backpacks or accidentally drop from a few feet without worrying about it shattering. While all of the climbing helmets in this review passed a series of standardized impact tests, their day-to-day durability varies substantially.
The Black Diamond Capitan is one of the most durable helmets on the market. It features a 2-part ABS hard shell that is nearly impenetrable. This thing can take a beating for years, only accruing surface-level scratches with no functional damage at all—really living up to Black Diamond's claim for it to be their “ultra-durable” helmet. The Capitan is as durable as classic full-hardshell helmets like the Petzl Boreo and Black Diamond Half Dome, while at the same time incorporating more of the features that modern climbers demand.
The tried-and-true Black Diamond Half Dome is a workhorse. The ABS shell may scratch, but it won't break easily.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
The Smith Summit Mips is also quite durable. It's a dual-certified climbing and skiing helmet with a thick ABS shell that stands up to rock and ice climbing and fast downhill skiing. We took it to the Alps for a 6-week climbing and skiing trip, and it didn't falter once despite being tossed around hotel rooms, crammed into train luggage compartments, and protecting our lead tester's head on mountain adventures.
The Smith Summit Mips has a robust ABS shell around plenty of EPS foam and a Mips liner, making it one of the most durable climbing-rated helmets out there.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Exposed foam helmets aren't as durable, which makes sense. Foam is a soft material that is highly susceptible to the firm and sharp surfaces found while rock climbing. You'll want to handle these with more care when throwing your pack around. Among these helmets, the Black Diamond Vision Mips is the most durable, thanks to its high-coverage shell design. This helmet has the largest hard shell covering of any exposed foam design we tested, making it the most durable of the lot.
The Black Diamond Vision Mips strikes the perfect balance between durability and weight, with a mostly-full coverage ABS shell and some exposed foam.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Other Notable Climbing Helmets
We tested a lot of climbing helmets, and sometimes, it's difficult to choose which top-performing helmet should earn a coveted GearLab award. We want to highlight a few notable options that are well worth your consideration, even if they didn't win an award.
Edelrid Salathe Lite — This helmet is a huge upgrade to the long-standing Edelrid Salathe. At only 6.7 grams, it is only 0.6 ounces heavier than the Petzl Sirocco, its most direct competitor. While the Sirocco is slightly lower profile, the Salathe Lite provides a bit more coverage. Unlike the Sirocco, which no longer meets the EU standards for protection, the Salathe Lite is CE-certified as a ski touring helmet (though it does not meet the EN 1077 requirements for alpine ski helmets).
The Edelrid Salathe Lite is an excellent helmet, directly comparable in almost every way to the award-winning Petzl Sirocco (seen in the background during side-by-side testing).
Credit: Brooke Maushund
Black Diamond Vapor – A long-standing fan favorite among ultralight helmets, the 6.3-ounce Vapor is even more minimalistic than the Sirocco or Salathe Lite. Like most BD helmets, the fit is better suited to certain head shapes than others. This helmet, however, lives up to its name – huge openings in the two-piece construction offer better ventilation than any other helmet we've tested.
Most of the BD Vapor's construction is vents, offering a lightweight, breezy fit that directly rivals the Salathe Lite and Sirocco.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Black Diamond Half Dome – Even though it was edged out by the value-focused Black Diamond Capitan, the Half Dome was historically, and surely will continue to be, many climbers' first helmet. Like the similarly designed Petzl Boreo, it's tough to beat the long-lasting durability of a fully hardshell helmet.
Tried-and-true, the BD Half Dome will continue to be the helmet that many climbers wear for their first time climbing outdoors.
Credit: Brooke Maushund
Conclusion
Climbing helmets have come a long way in recent years. Manufacturers are churning out ever-lighter, more comfortable options for today's adventurers. Our comprehensive review has presented a wide range of options, and we hope you heed our advice to quickly sort through the market to find the best helmet for your needs and style.
From climbing ropes to the latest climbing harnesses, all of our gear has been tested by a team of experienced, dedicated climbers, both amateur and professional. We use our in-depth testing to outline all our favorite climbing gear to make your purchase decisions easier.
We'll see you at the crag!
—Andy Wellman, Cam McKenzie Ring, Jeff Dobronyi, and Brooke Maushund