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Black Diamond Vision MIPS Review

This helmet performs well across the board, making it our favorite helmet for any kind of climbing
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Black Diamond Vision MIPS Review (Testing our the Vision MIPS on the fantastic granite of Independence Pass on a wonderful sunny fall day. While it...)
Testing our the Vision MIPS on the fantastic granite of Independence Pass on a wonderful sunny fall day. While it isn't the lightest foam helmet, it is certainly light enough that we don't notice it while climbing, and wouldn't hesitate to wear it every day.
Price:  $150 List
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Manufacturer:   Black Diamond Equipment
By Andy Wellman and Jeff Dobronyi  ⋅  May 16, 2023
83
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#1 of 13
  • Comfort - 30% 9.0
  • Adjustability - 20% 8.0
  • Weight - 20% 6.9
  • Ventilation - 10% 9.0
  • Features - 10% 10.0
  • Durability - 10% 7.0

Our Verdict

The Black Diamond Vision MIPS is our favorite overall climbing helmet. It certainly deserves our Editors' Choice award, thanks to its incredible comfort and ability to fit well onto different head shapes. It has tons of adjustability, great vents, and MIPS technology to provide excellent protection. We love how easy it is to wear, and it doesn't weigh much more than the lightest — and the least protective — helmets on the market. If we had to wear one helmet for any type of climbing, from light-and-fast alpine missions to ice climbing to sport and trad climbing, this would be the one. It isn't cheap, but the inclusion of MIPS technology and excellent comfort make this helmet worth the investment.
REASONS TO BUY
MIPS protection
Perfect fit
Highly adjustable
Great ventilation
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Not the lightest
Editors' Note: This review was updated on May 15, 2023, after retesting the BD Vision MIPS to confirm its award-winning status. We also included more information about how this helmet stacks up against the rest of the competition.

Compare to Similar Products

 
Awards Editors' Choice Award
Best Overall Climbing Helmet
Top Pick Award
Best Lightweight Climbing Helmet
Best Buy Award
Best Value for a Lightweight Helmet
Best Buy Award
Best Bang for the Buck
 
Price $139.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$129.95 at REI
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$89.95 at Backcountry
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$57.88 at Amazon
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$59.95 at Backcountry
Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Bottom Line A relatively lightweight and super protective helmet with a great fitYou will barely notice wearing this comfortable, ultra-lightweight helmetA highly adjustable climbing and ski mountaineering helmet with a low weight and fair priceA very popular, albeit clunky helmet at an unbeatable price pointA great value that can take some serious abuse
Rating Categories Black Diamond Visio... Petzl Sirocco Petzl Meteor Black Diamond Half... Petzl Boreo
Comfort (30%)
9.0
8.0
7.0
4.0
5.0
Adjustability (20%)
8.0
8.0
9.0
10.0
6.0
Weight (20%)
6.9
9.5
7.8
4.7
6.0
Ventilation (10%)
9.0
9.0
8.0
5.0
6.0
Features (10%)
10.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
9.0
Durability (10%)
7.0
5.0
8.0
9.0
9.0
Specs Black Diamond Visio... Petzl Sirocco Petzl Meteor Black Diamond Half... Petzl Boreo
Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L) 9.7 oz 6.1 oz 8.5 oz 12.7 oz 11.0 oz
Shell Style EPP and EPS Foam, ABS Shell, with MIPS Liner EPP and EPS Foam, Polycabonate Top Piece EPS, Polycarbonate EPS Foam with ABS Shell ABS Shell with EPP and EPS Foam
Certifications EN12492 EN12492, CE Ski Touring EN12492, CE Ski Touring EN12492 EN12492
Number of Sizes 2 2 2 2 2
Number of Colorways 1 1 3 4 4
Warranty 1 year limited
(defects only)
3 year 3 year 1 year 3 year

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Black Diamond Vision MIPS was released in 2020 and quickly impressed us with its comfort and protection attributes. Indeed, the regular Black Diamond Vision is almost two ounces lighter, comes in a couple of different colors besides just black, is available in a women's-specific version, and will save you a fair amount of money. But since we wear a helmet to protect our brains from a concussion, TBI, or other possible injuries while climbing, the added weight and money are well worth it to get the best technology possible in the MIPS version.

Performance Comparison


black diamond vision mips - hanging out at a belay on a multi-pitch route while wearing the...
Hanging out at a belay on a multi-pitch route while wearing the Vision MIPS, which is very comfortable, highly adjustable, and includes all of the best protection technology you can get in a climbing helmet with its combination of EPP and EPS foam and the MIPS BPS.

Comfort


The Vision MIPS is the most comfortable climbing helmet we have ever worn. The foam is perfectly shaped to fit a human head, which allows the user to feel like the helmet is an extension of their head. This helmet has no tight spots or roomy cavities, while other helmets can often be too round or too elliptical. The Vision MIPS is relatively deep, providing full coverage, but not too deep to feel claustrophobic. We never felt like we had to take the helmet off because of its size or fit. It is easily adjusted with a comfortable ratcheting plastic tension bar in the back, and we love how there is enough space within the helmet to wear a thin, lightweight beanie or even a visor.


The yellow MIPS harness sits inside the helmet, right against the foam. A couple of low-profile, soft pads cushion your head against the helmet. These pads stay in place with velcro and can be removed to be washed or to adjust their position. They can also be flipped upside down if one side gets too sweaty and gross.

black diamond vision mips - a look at the inside of the helmet. the yellow is the mips liner...
A look at the inside of the helmet. The yellow is the MIPS liner, which is somewhat free-floating within the foam shell, and is able to move to help deflect impacts. On the front of the forehead (top right), and top of the head there are black foam pads velcroed in place, and in the bottom left you can see the plastic tensioning bar. As you can see, the straps are low profile.

Adjustability


This helmet comes in two different sizes, so be sure to match yourself with the right one for your head size. It also has a ratcheting tension bar made of plastic in the back, which is adjustable from each side. Adjustment is easily made by putting the helmet on the head and then squeezing the two ends together along the band until the desired tightness is reached.


While the adjustment system for head fit is easy and comfortable, unfortunately, there is no adjustment on the V-yoke straps around the ears. The chin strap is sewn directly to the V-yoke, which is lower profile and potentially less annoying but offers no potential adjustment if the chin strap rests too tightly against your neck. The chin strap itself is adjustable for length.

black diamond vision mips - while the overall fit of the helmet is highly adjustable...
While the overall fit of the helmet is highly adjustable, unfortunately the v-yoke strap, shown here, is sewn in place and cannot be moved foreward or back if the chin strap doesn't rest right under your chin and against the neck.

Weight


Our size M/L test helmet weighed 9.7 ounces on our independent scale, slightly lighter than the 9.8 ounces listed on BD's website. For a foam helmet, this is fairly heavy, and to be honest, we were surprised to find that it weighed that much because, after many days of wearing it and lending it out, everyone had commented on how light it felt. It is still many ounces lighter than the heaviest hardshell helmets in this review.


Compared to the lightest helmets on the market, the reasons for the extra weight are the MIPS system, the ratcheting plastic size adjuster, and the ABS plastic outer shell. This shell is more robust than simple polycarbonate options and covers a larger percentage of the helmet than the protective shells on other foam options. These things add up to a bit more weight but also offer compelling advantages that are likely worth a couple of extra ounces.

black diamond vision mips - at 9.7 ounces for the m/l size, this helmet is relatively heavy...
At 9.7 ounces for the M/L size, this helmet is relatively heavy compared to many of the other lightweight foam choices you can choose from. On the other hand, it is relatively light compared to the many completely hard-shell models that are out there.

Ventilation


This helmet has 13 vents: six on each side and one in the middle on the back. The two farthest forward vents rest against the sides of the temples, allowing air to enter the front of the scalp. The vents on this helmet are large, and there is a lot of space for ventilation, making this an effective choice in hot weather and for aerobic objectives.


Some users are concerned that this helmet could get hot because it is only available in black. We climbed with it in the sun many times and never noticed our brains cooking due to its dark color. We also must point out that it is made of heavily insulating foam. So the concern about trapping heat inside is far greater than the idea that heat absorbed on the outside might migrate into the helmet and make you uncomfortable. Frankly, if you are way too hot while climbing in the sun, it's probably because you chose to climb in the hot sun and not the fault of your helmet. So while jet black may not be the most optimal color, its role in this helmet's overall performance, or perceived lack thereof, is minimal.

black diamond vision mips - our tester adjusting the slider bar in the back to make a tighter...
Our tester adjusting the slider bar in the back to make a tighter fit, something that can easily be done with the helmet on the head. You can also see how there are many large vents on the helmet. The v-shaped elastic strap is for holding either a headlamp or goggles in place.

Features


A headlamp can be attached to the Black Diamond Vision MIPS using the two clips on the front specifically for this purpose, combined with an elastic strap in the back that hooks over the headlamp band. This is the best system because it also works well with ski goggles, which you might wear while ice climbing, mountaineering, or backcountry skiing. The two clips on the front are recessed into a foam cut-out so they don't stick out from the helmet's shell, where they can catch slings, clothing, or branches. They don't have a ton of inherent tension, so it is effortless to slide the band up under them, in stark contrast to some models that are so tight it is challenging to get the headlamp on.


The best feature of this helmet is the MIPS Brain Protection System found on the inside, which has been shown in studies to be effective at reducing the likelihood of rotational impacts on the brain. If you like, you can buy a version of the Vision without this feature. But we wear helmets specifically to protect our brains, so we see the additional cost of MIPS technology as well worth the extra expense.

The headlamp clips on the Black Diamond Vision MIPS are easy to...
The headlamp clips on the Black Diamond Vision MIPS are easy to manipulate and secure.
The Vision MIPS has a great set of features, including two minimalist headlamp clips and an elastic headlamp or goggle clip on the back.

Durability


The BD Vision MIPS is a fairly durable helmet; it strikes the perfect balance between weight and durability. EPP foam is used on all sides of the head, which has some rebound when squished, rather than EPS foam, which compresses without expanding after impact. An ABS plastic shell protects the top of the head, and EPS foam is used under this top plate.


If you are particularly rough with your helmet or lend it out to others, this helmet will be damaged relatively quickly with all of the exposed foam. However, if you are careful with your helmet — which you should be — the foam and shell are durable enough to last a long time.

black diamond vision mips - leading off on a cool traverse under a roof a couple pitches off the...
Leading off on a cool traverse under a roof a couple pitches off the ground. The Vision MIPS has a hard ABS shell that covers most of the top of the helmet and makes it more durable for everyday wear and tear.

Should You Buy The Black Diamond Vision MIPS?


With excellent performance across the board, this is the best climbing helmet on the market. It strikes the perfect balance between weight and protection and includes useful features that make it easy to use and durable. Perhaps most notably, it includes the highly protective MIPS system in a lightweight and comfortable package. All of this comes with a high price tag. But even with the inclusion of MIPS, it is priced similarly to other top competitors that don't have MIPS. In short, this helmet provides an overall great value.

What Other Climbing Helmets Should You Consider?


If you are looking for a bare-bones climbing helmet with great protection and durability, the Black Diamond Half Dome is an excellent value and lasts forever, albeit with limited comfort. The Petzl Meteor weighs slightly less than the Vision MIPS and significantly undercuts the market as a high-performance, lightweight helmet. The Petzl Sirocco, the market's lightest helmet, saves a couple of ounces but provides much less protection and durability than the Vision MIPS. And finally, if you are in the market for a climbing helmet that is also certified for skiing, the Smith Summit MIPS is the best choice.

black diamond vision mips - enjoying the ledge at the top of a multi-pitch route with alpinist...
Enjoying the ledge at the top of a multi-pitch route with Alpinist Editor Derek Franz, who also really enjoys the Vision MIPS.

Andy Wellman and Jeff Dobronyi