
Our Verdict
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Petzl Sirocco is notable for its incredibly low weight and great comfort, making it an ideal choice for all types of climbing, including rock and ice. One major downside to this weight savings is that the helmet lacks durability and doesn't last as long as other, heavier, hardshelled options.
Changes to CE Standards
The protection standards for the CE certification for a ski mountaineering helmet (EN 18100) changed in 2024. As a result, many helmets, the Sirocco among them, no longer meet the requirements for this certification.
Comfort
Our testers all agreed that the Sirocco is one of the most comfortable climbing helmets on the market. It has an ergonomic, accommodating shape, which fits the variety of head shapes among our testers. We can barely feel the weight of this helmet on our heads, which translates to increased mobility and less neck strain over the course of a climbing day(s). The shape of the helmet cavity is perfectly contoured to fit the human skull, meaning there is no dead space on the inside and no part of the helmet that sticks out awkwardly.
Much like the other lightweight EPP foam options, the Sirocco pads the head on the inside with tiny cushion inserts, providing a replacement pair as well. While we thought these could be thicker, the reality is they are all that is needed to cushion the head, a design choice that fits with the high-performance, minimalist mentality of the Sirocco. While plenty of other helmets are also very comfortable, they can't all claim to be as “unnoticeable” as this one.
Adjustability
This helmet uses a minimalist and lightweight webbing harness system to hold it on the head, and it works great. There is plenty of length in the webbing for large size adjustments, or to accommodate different hats and hoods worn inside the helmet. We appreciate that there are no gaps when using the helmet, and that the adjustability allows for a thin beanie to comfortably line the inside while climbing in colder conditions. It isn't as simple to adjust as plastic slider bars or click wheels, but it is one of the most comfortable adjustment systems of any helmet we tested.
The other adjustable parts of the helmet are the location on the V-yoke of the chin strap, which is nice to fine-tune. This adjustment is easy to manipulate and is much appreciated. The chin strap itself is also adjustable, as you would expect. We appreciate that Petzl took climber feedback to heart and removed the magnetic buckle feature on the chin strap. In previous models, the small magnet would accrue sediment and, after enough buildup, the strap wouldn't securely fasten. This update is a nod to Petzl being a brand built by, for, and with the feedback of real climbers.
Weight
The large version of this helmet weighs 6.1 ounces, as verified by our independent scale. That's crazy lightweight for a climbing helmet, and we've tested lots of them.
While some people may consider all of these helmets to be light, our experience is that the heavier ABS shell helmets add considerable fatigue to a long day and are thus less comfortable. Also, the lighter a helmet is, the more likely you are to wear it all the time, and this is the only way that it can truly protect you as a climber.
Ventilation
This helmet now offers, by our count, 12 vents. Designers removed the dividers from its prior 24 smaller vents to create uninhibited front, side, and back ventilation that is as good as any helmet on the market.
The two large vent holes on the front of the helmet seem to cool our forehead a bit in a breeze and help provide an “airy-er” feel than the helmets that didn't include these large vents. Although the layout of vents and actual ventilated space is slightly different, this helmet is right in line with other top choices as one of the best ventilated helmets you can choose.
Features
The Sirocco's headlamp attachment system combines two clips on the front of the helmet with one elastic bungee held in place by a hook on the back. While the front clips are slightly recessed, attaching our headlamps to the top is quick and easy. The bungee is designed to accommodate headlamps with large rear battery packs, which also makes it large enough to hold ski goggle straps. This helmet is so light that heavy headlamps can actually pull the helmet down over the user's eyes! So, if you're going to dish out for an ultralight helmet like the Sirocco, we recommend not skimping on a lightweight headlamp.
The helmet also comes with extra washable cushions for the front temple and center of the head, which is nice when the first pair of cushions gets too sweaty or dirty. The low-profile front brim was shaved down so as not to obstruct your vision when it counts most. This full-fledged feature set makes the Sirocco a great lightweight option for all types of mountain pursuits.
Durability
As with other helmets with exposed foam, this helmet is susceptible to dings and punctures. The foam is resilient, but if you cram the helmet into a backpack with carabiners, cams, crampons, and other sharp metal objects, you'll inevitably end up with a puncture in the foam somewhere. The hard polycarbonate shell top is protective and decently sturdy.
It is worth pointing out that our assessment of the durability is only for the cosmetic durability and everyday wear and tear over the course of a few years of climbing. We are saying nothing about the ability to protect from impacts or falls. However, this helmet meets CE and UIAA standards for mountaineering and is certified for ski touring, although this latter certification program is vague.
Should You Buy the Petzl Sirocco?
This helmet is not cheap. It is among the most expensive helmets on the market, and the exposed foam will puncture sooner or later. That said, this is one of the best options if you are looking for the lightest helmet out there and are willing to be careful in how you treat your equipment. It presents a good value, especially if it inspires you to wear it more often, as it did for some of our testers. You will find this helmet on the heads of many world-class alpinists and mountain professionals. So you tell us: is the investment worth it for you?
What Other Climbing Helmets Should You Consider?
If the Sirocco's lightweight design entices you, but you want to save a little money, the excellent Black Diamond Vapor weighs the same and costs less, albeit with slight performance sacrifices. The Petzl Meteor is only a couple of ounces heavier, but it's much more durable and will save you a lot of money compared to these other two helmets. Our overall favorite helmet, the Black Diamond Vision Mips, is less expensive, more protective, and a few ounces heavier, though this weight difference is, in reality, barely noticeable. And finally, if you are in the market for a dual-certified climbing and downhill skiing helmet, the Smith Summit Mips is an excellent and protective choice.