REASONS TO BUY
Great edging power
Stiff yet sensitive
Convenient Velcro closure
REASONS TO AVOID
Stiffness undermines smearing ability
Lacks a toe patch
La Sportiva Otaki Review
It may fly under the radar, but if you strive to own only one climbing shoe, this could be it
The La Sportiva Otaki may be one of the most underrated shoes on the market.
Credit: Dom Rickicki
By Dom Rickicki ⋅ Review Editor ⋅ October 30, 2026
Our Verdict
The La Sportiva Otaki has been in the La Sportiva lineup for over a decade, yet it still seems to fly under the radar. But anyone who has climbed in the Otaki knows it's one of the brand's best and most versatile options for hard outdoor climbing. The stiff forefoot edges like a beast, but the split sole stays soft enough to smear when you really need it. The heel is snug and powerful for pulling up over overhanging exits, and the Velcro closure makes it easy to pop off at belays on hard multi-pitches. As long as you like them stiff, we'd argue the Otaki is a contender for one of the best all-around shoes on the market.
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
La Sportiva Otaki | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  Best for Sport Climbing and Bouldering | Best for Sport and Trad Climbing |  Your First Outdoor Shoe | Your First Gym Shoe | |
| Price | $229 List Check Price at REI | $219 List Check Price at REI | $239 List Check Price at REI | $139 List Check Price at REI | $139 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score  |
|||||
| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | This versatile shoe is perfectly downturned for gently overhanging climbing, yet sensitive enough for slabby terrain | A nearly perfect shoe for sport climbing and bouldering, this slipper is your one-stop shop for steep climbing | An awesome shoe for long climbs requiring a variety of crack climbing and edging techniques | A bargain price for a respectable climbing shoe makes this an easy choice for beginners | Sticky rubber and a comfy fit come together at an affordable price, making this an ideal entry-level shoe |
| Rating Categories | La Sportiva Otaki | La Sportiva Skwama | La Sportiva Katana Lace | La Sportiva Finale | Evolv Defy Lace |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | La Sportiva Otaki | La Sportiva Skwama | La Sportiva Katana Lace | La Sportiva Finale | Evolv Defy Lace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: up 1 EU size Performance Fit: true to EU size |
| Expected Stretch | 0.5 - 1 EU size | 0.5 - 1 EU Size | 0.5 - 1 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU Size |
| Downturn | Moderate | Aggressive | Moderate | Flat | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate (sharp toe) | Moderate | Neutral |
| Closure Style | Velcro | Velcro | Lace | Lace | Lace |
| Upper | Leather/ Microfiber | Leather / Microfiber / Rubber Toe Cap | Leather / Microfiber | ECO Leather / Microfiber | Synthetic vegan |
| Lining | Pacific | Unlined | Pacific (in forefoot and back) | Unlined | Lined |
| Volume Options? | None | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular |
| Rubber Type | Vibram XS Edge | Vibram XS Grip2 | Vibram XS Edge | Vibram XS Edge | TRAX SAS |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | 4 mm | 4 mm | 4 mm | 5 mm | 3.5 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
The super-stiff forefoot makes the Otaki one of the most supportive shoes we've tested. But thanks to the split sole design, they're sensitive enough to still feel what you're standing on. Edging specialists often have laces, so the Velcro closure makes for a stiff shoe that you can easily pop on and off during multi-pitch climbs.
The rigid outsole also means you can resole it a few times without losing the shoe's support over time. It's not exactly a performance attribute, but it's nice to know you'll get some mileage out of these expensive shoes. That same rigidity means we can size them a bit more comfortably without sacrificing performance.
We love the supportive Otaki as a powerful shoe for edging. Credit: Matt Bento
Dislikes
The rigidity and edging performance of the Otaki inevitably come at the cost of smearing capability and sensitivity. It's not easy to flatten your toes over sloping footholds, and on overhanging routes, it can be really hard to create the tension required to pull with your toes.
The Otaki also lacks a rubber toe patch to help with technical toe hooks. Rather than steep boulder problems where you need to toe hook out of a lip, the Otaki performs much better on hard sport climbs where toe hooking is minimal.
The Otaki isn't necessarily the best shoe for bouldering, but it can be the right tool in areas like the Buttermilks where the problems demand precise footwork. Credit: Matt Bento
Should You Buy the La Sportiva Otaki?
The Otaki is an incredibly versatile shoe for outdoor sport and trad climbing. Even though it works best on vertical or gently overhung terrain, it can hang well enough to pull over a roof or even on the occasional overhanging route. We especially like the Otaki for hard multi-pitch climbing because, unlike lace-up shoes, it's so easy to pop on and off.
What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
Climbers looking for a shoe for hard sport climbing should consider the La Sportiva Skwama. It's built on the same last as the Otaki, just a touch softer, which makes it much better for smearing. The La Sportiva Katana Lace is our overall favorite shoe for sport and trad climbing, but we must admit, the Otaki gives it a run for its money. While the Katana Lace provides a softer, slightly flatter platform, it is a laced shoe, so you won't be able to take it off as easily. As an edging specialist, the Scarpa Boostic R marries power and sensitivity unlike any other shoe we've ever tested.
—Dom Rickicki
You Might Also Like
