Arc'teryx Gamma Hoody - Women's Review

The Gamma Hoody reigns over other jackets in our review, striking a balance between an active and technical softshell while giving bodacious adventurers a stylish and athletic fit. This layer proves you can have a reasonably lightweight and weather-resistant softshell for technical pursuits that is also breathable with athletic mobility for aerobic activities in warmer weather. The Gamma is lighter weight but less warm than hardshells while still being warmer, burlier, and more weather-resistant than other technical softshells. It's the Goldilocks of softshells. The rugged fabric features a DWR coating for water resistance and a four-way stretch for unimpeded movement. The hood is helmet-compatible, and the hem doesn't ride up while climbing, making it an ideal companion on alpine climbs or windy hikes in the mountains. It is weather-resistant enough for warm-weather ski touring, ice climbing, or snowshoeing.

Performance Comparison

Weather Protection

The Gamma is the most weather-resistant jacket in the Gamma series from Arc'teryx. We love it for being a stretchy softshell that provides excellent wind resistance and decent water resistance.

Striking the right balance between breathability, weather resistance, and ease of movement should be the goal of any softshell. The Arc'teryx Gamma Hoody does this without compromising style, proving that you can have form and function. The fabric is burly enough to withstand the abuse of alpine granite. It offers excellent wind resistance while providing the breathability you need to keep moving. This jacket is unlined, but when paired with a light fleece, it is a perfect layer for cooler weather climbing. The Gamma admirably repels moisture in our shower test with its patented Wee Burly fabric treated with DWR. However, like any softshell, it's still advisable to pack rain gear for extended outdoor trips. In heavy rain, it will become wet around the shoulders first, and eventually, the weather-resistant fabric will soak through. If you're seeking something completely waterproof, we recommend a hardshell instead.

The Gamma offered ample protection when we wore it in light rain or snow. Aside from providing warmth and water resistance, it is also an excellent wind barrier against cold mountain gusts.

Breathability

Breathability is one rating metric where the Gamma truly shines. Instead of pit zips, Arc'teryx designed this jacket with large mesh-lined, harness-compatible pockets.

Despite its rugged and windproof fabric, the pocket ventilation is incredibly adequate. The mesh ventilation extends above the usable portion of the pocket, up to the collar, to give it extra breathability. This softshell is also unlined, which gives it more breathability than other technical softshells in our review. The Wee Burly fabric balances weather resistance and breathability, offering protection from the wind and moisture resistance while still facilitating ventilation when you fastpack up a peak.

Some of the other lighter-weight, active softshells in our lineup offer more outstanding breathability, but they also come with less weather protection. If you intend to use this jacket during early morning hikes to approach alpine climbs, it should keep you warm enough while minimizing the clammy feel of a less breathable layer. We love this jacket for warm-weather ski touring, climbing in the shade, and all alpine pursuits—from climbing and peak bagging to early morning trail runs and warm-weather snowshoeing because it keeps you protected but not stifled.

Mobility

Mobility is another category where the Gamma stands out for its unique balance of durability and superb range of motion. Few jackets move as well as this one for climbing. The hem doesn't ride up while climbing, and the stretchy fabric facilitates unencumbered movement.

An excellent softshell jacket should feel so comfortable that you forget it is on when you get in your flow zone. The Gamma is perfect for climbing, hiking, or ski touring, like a second skin due to its great flexibility. In addition to its stretchy fabric, the Gamma also has features that provide more mobility than other jackets in its class. The cuffs incorporate a small, additional panel of durable elastic to keep them in place without the need for velcro wrist straps, and the underarms are gusseted, allowing you to reach above without the sleeves sliding down. The spacious hood is compatible with helmets and has adjustable cinches to customize the fit, with or without a helmet.

Weight

Weighing in at 15.05 ounces for an extra small size, the Gamma is one of the heaviest active softshells in our review. When compared to all the jackets we tested — including casual and technical softshells — it landed in the middle of the pack in total but proved well more than double the weight of the lightest options.

While the Gamma is not winning any ultralight awards, this may not be your critical criterion. We appreciate this jacket for its alpine rock climbing, ski touring, and mountaineering features because it is breathable, mobile, and offers above-average weather resistance. If this sounds like you, you're unlikely to notice the heft of this jacket while stowed in your pack. Other options better suit your needs if you're looking for an ultralight emergency layer or want a lighter-weight jacket to stow in your pack (or on your harness). However, because of the functionality of this jacket as an alpine climbing layer, it offers solid performance worth carrying.

Versatility

We consider style, features, storability, and range of ideal uses to evaluate a softshell for versatility. In a field of stiff competition, the Gamma is ready for myriad outdoor activities in all four seasons, not to mention exceptionally stylish for drizzly days in town. This is why it earned high marks in this category.

The Gamma jacket is versatile and suitable for outdoor and casual activities with its color options and tailored cut. The elegant design makes it a solid choice for a variety of outdoor activities in all seasons. It features a two-way cinch on the helmet-compatible hood, making it ideal for backcountry use. The pockets are harness-compatible and mesh-lined, allowing for ventilation and easy access without removing your backpack's hip belt. The cuffs have a trim cut with a stretchy fabric panel and are compatible with gauntlet-style gloves. The jacket also features a comfortable collar with a spacious neck gasket.

We especially appreciate the “No Slip Zip,” which prevents the zipper from riding down. Overall, it's an ideal jacket for climbing, ski touring, snowshoeing, and cycling in various weather conditions. However, it may not be suitable for monsoon-level storms. It is excellent for four seasons, although you may want a lighter layer for the heat of summer. The fit is svelte and looks trim on the alpine slopes but dressy enough for a celebratory summit round at the bar.

Should You Buy the Arc'Teryx Gamma Hoody?

We believe that this jacket offers great value due to its well-designed, feature-rich, breathable, and mobile nature, making it easy to recommend. Although cheaper jackets are available, the design of the Gamma and the fabric's durability ensure long-term use and satisfaction. It performs exceptionally well during alpine climbs and summit missions and is suitable for cooler-weather multi-pitches or warmer ice-climbing days. However, if you expect to encounter severe weather, this jacket alone may not provide adequate protection. In that case, you may need a hardshell for rain protection or an insulating layer for warmth. If you're seeking a durable jacket for windy alpine adventures like climbing, warm ski touring, or peak bagging, this jacket strikes the ideal balance between mobility, weather resistance, and breathability. The all-around high performance makes it well worth the investment.

What Other Softshell Jackets Should You Consider?