The Arc'teryx Psiphon FL Hoody soared to the top of the pack easily and gracefully. It nabbed top score after top score, finishing just one point above our reigning Editors' Choice, the Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody. We haven't had a softshell come even close to the Gamma in years. We decided to let these two jackets share the crown because they are both fantastic and offer different benefits. The Gamma MX remains our favorite for colder temps as it's thicker and warmer. But the Psiphon FL, our Editor's Choice for Fast and Light adventures, is thinner, lighter, more breathable, and offers features ideal for long adventurous days.
The only downside is that it's not the most weather protective option. But that means it's highly mobile and breathable. It's also an easy piece to layer if the weather does turn icky. From the stowable hood, to the adjustable cuffs, to the special inserts that keep the hem securely below a harness, the Psiphon is a top-of-the-line piece that we're delighted to have in our review.
While it's a bit pricey, it's not crazy. But, if you want to stay light and minimal and need to keep cost down, our Best Buy for Climbing, the Rab Borealis is a fantastic choice for less than half the price.