Our Verdict
Compare to Similar Products
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Black Diamond Capitan E | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Best Overall Climbing Helmet | Best Bang for the Buck | |||
| Price | $90 List Check REI (on sale!) | $120 List Check Price at REI | $65 List Check Price at REI | $115 List Check Price at REI | $75 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | A durable, modern hardshell helmet for a reasonable price, but for that price, there are better options on the market | The helmet is lightweight, comfy, and durable, providing everything you need for climbing in any season | A modern, lightweight helmet that costs nearly half as much as the competition | A highly adjustable climbing helmet with a low weight and fair price | A modern hardshell helmet that is rugged and durable without sacrificing ventilation |
| Rating Categories | Black Diamond Capitan E | Black Diamond Vision | Metolius Hardtop | Petzl Meteor | Petzl Boreo |
| Comfort (30%) | |||||
| Adjustability (20%) | |||||
| Weight (20%) | |||||
| Ventilation (10%) | |||||
| Features (10%) | |||||
| Durability (10%) | |||||
| Specifications | Black Diamond Capitan E | Black Diamond Vision | Metolius Hardtop | Petzl Meteor | Petzl Boreo |
| Sizes Available? | S/M M/L |
S/M M/L |
S/M M/L |
S/M M/L |
S/M M/L |
| Adjustable? | Yes, plastic slider | Yes, plastic slider | Yes, webbing harness | Yes, plastic slider | Yes, plastic slider |
| Certified Activities | Climbing | Climbing | Climbing | Climbing | Climbing |
| Measured Weight (Size Medium or M/L) | 12.2 oz | 8.3 oz | 8.3 oz | 8.5 oz | 11.0 oz |
| Shell Materials | EPP and EPS Foam, DuraPET | ABS Shell with EPP and EPS Foam | ABS Shell with EPP Foam | EPS, Polycarbonate | ABS Shell with EPP and EPS Foam |
| Listed Certifications | CE/EN, UIAA | CE/EN, UIAA | CE, EN 12492:2012 | EN 12492, UIAA | CE EN 12492, UKCA, UIAA |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
The Capitan E is super durable without sacrificing the comforts of modern foam helmets. Often when you handle a lightweight climbing helmet, you feel like you need to be pretty delicate with it. But with a full plastic shell, the Capitan E should be well protected not just from years of climbing, but from years of being tossed into packs and the back of trucks.
The shell fit was comfortable enough for larger hairstyles, and roomy enough to comfortably add a warm hat. With plenty of adjustment from the simple plastic slider, the Capitan E is clearly designed to fit most heads.
Dislikes
This isn't the lightest or most ventilated helmet on the market – it's better than a lot of other hardshell helmets we tested, but it's not the type of helmet you won't notice you're wearing.
If you're looking for an ice climbing helmet, specifically, then the Capitan E is a pretty reasonable option given its warmth and accommodating fit. However, on warm summer days, we were definitely sweaty under this lid.
Should You Buy the Black Diamond Capitan E?
The Capitan E is simple and will work well year-round, without getting destroyed by wear and tear. It's a particularly intriguing option for entry-level ice climbers who want a warmer, more durable helmet. While it's a reasonably affordable option, it's still a fairly expensive hardshell helmet – there are lighter, better ventilated helmets for less, and lightweight helmets that are nearly as durable for not much more.
What Other Climbing Helmets Should You Consider?
For only a little more money, you could upgrade to the Black Diamond Vision, which shaves off a lot of weight and adds better ventilation to an otherwise fairly similar design. If you're less concerned about owning a hardshell helmet for the added durability, then the Metolius Hardtop is lighter, better ventilated, and cheaper.











