Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS Review

The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is highly-featured bi-pattern rope that's available for a premium price. Although it handles a little stiff, it features an effective dry treatment within a confidence-inspiring diameter that make it a versatile and durable choice for a variety of climbing objectives.

Handling

The tight weave and thinner diameter of the IonR 9.4 XEROS make it feel a little stiffer than other ropes that we've tested. That said, it still fed slack easily through the GriGri and made for easy clips on lead. In fact, we kind of liked the tighter weave that seemed more resistant to abrasions and edges, especially when climbing multi-pitch routes with a fix and follow technique.

We also love that the proprietary Xeros dry treatment is woven into the core of the rope, rather than simply bathing the sheath as this prevented that sticky and tacky feel while handling the rope. Although we thought it would get softer after several pitches, the Ion remained relatively stiff with a solid pinch. For those after a supple rope, the Ion isn't it as the rough texture and stiff feel may not be for everyone.

Durability

The IonR 9.4 XEROS offers excellent durability, especially when compared to ropes of a similar diameter. The stiff and rugged design combines with Sterling's proprietary UIAA dry-certified Xeros technology to effectively protect the core from snags on sharp edges or crystals. Whether we were climbing single pitches, pushing a wall, or climbing a demanding multi-pitch, this is the rope for the job. The sheath effectively resisted dust and dirt we encountered at the crag thanks to the Xeros technology that prevents that sticky coating on the exterior of the sheath. After several whips and tons of pitches, it still looks brand new.

The stiff design and tight (rather than loose and supple) weave better resisted damage, especially when moving through sharp granite and knobs found in Tuolumne Meadows. When even climbed on this rope throughout a very wet and seepy spring in Yosemite Valley, and the rope provided great performance despite wet and muddy conditions. We didn't even need to wear belay gloves with this design as the sheath repelled any moisture and dirt without absorbing into the fibers of the sheath.

Versatility

We love the versatility of the IonR 9.4 XEROS. It quickly became our go-to cord for multi-pitch missions with long approaches thanks to the excellent durability and the lightweight, thin diameter. The bi-pattern design made rappelling a breeze and it didn't feel like we were hiking with excess weight on our back. We also loved sport climbing with this rope like at the base of the FiFi Buttress and the Public Sanitation walls, both single pitch crags but with a longer than usual approach located in Yosemite Valley.

The dry treatment on the IonR 9.4 XEROS further increases its versatility, making it a solid choice for ice or mixed routes, or if you're like us, while chasing shade early season in Yosemite Valley despite the wet rocks seeping from the winter. We definitely used it to micro traction while using the fix and follow technique to save energy during long multi-pitch routes, we don't think it's tough enough to endure lots of jugging or aiding where you'll be constantly weighting the rope. It's also not the lightest nor the skinniest design available on the market, however, the 9.4mm diameter combines with a durable tight weave, a clear bipattern, and a dry treatment that make it versatile enough for variety of climbing objectives. Perhaps our only complaint with bi-pattern ropes is that the rope needs to be chopped evenly on both ends should you core shot the rope several whips down the line. If you only chop one core shot end, it will render the bi-patterning totally useless.

Features

The IonR 9.4 XEROS is a feature-rich climbing rope thanks to its bi-pattern construction, dry treatment, and tightly-woven 9.4mm diameter that's available in sizes ranging from 40-80 meters. Unlike other dry treatments, the Xeros is twisted into the filament that creates the yarn beneath the sheath, coating the core rather than bathing the exterior of the rope for even more coverage without that sticky dry-treated handling. This treatment increases the strength and performance of the design, while also helping the rope repel dirt and dust since the exterior isn't gunky or sticky from the dry treatment bathing.

When rappelling thousands of feet off a multi-pitch objective like those in the Cochamo Valley, we definitely appreciate the efficiency and convenience of a bi-pattern design for increased speed and safety, especially when the weather turns. We'd also like to give a shout out to Sterling for their sustainable and responsible practices, as the Xeros technology is not only effective at protecting the core of the Ion but is also PFOA-free to reduce the waste, energy, and labor of the process. It's also possible to recycle your beat dynamic Sterling rope by sending it back to their manufacturing facility that's run off of 100% renewable energy. Overall, we love this feature-rich design that makes is versatile enough for tons of climbing objectives.

Weight

At 57 grams per meter, the IonR 9.4 XEROS scores right in the middle of the pack when it comes to overall weight, not the heaviest nor the lightest. Weighing a total of 8.74 pounds for the 70 meter design that we tested, we think this is the perfect combination of durability, versatility, and weight savings. It's not so skinny that you're nervous to take the whip and not so heavy that you want to leave it behind on objectives that require long approaches.

Although the thin diameter and relatively lightweight design makes the Ion a great choice for a variety of objectives, there will always be the ultralight crew that prefers an every skinnier diameter to save weight in the mountains or while trying to send their project at the sport crag. That said, we love the tight weave and dry-treated core that increase the durability and versatility of this design so that we can feel confident trying hard, no matter the objective.

Should You Buy the Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS?

The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is a premium rope design that includes a hefty price tag that is simply out of reach for your average dirtbag climber. However, if your pockets are full after a seasonal gig and you want to invest in top-of-the-line performance within a versatile design, the Ion is the one. It combines an effective dry treatment within a responsible facility, a confidence-inspiring diameter, versatile performance, and a bi-pattern safety feature that make this rope worthy of the price. Whether you're trying to rappel efficiently before an incoming storm, trying to clip the chains on your single pitch project, fix and following up a multi-pitch, or climbing in wet conditions, the Ion offers performance that's tough to beat.

What Other Climbing Ropes Should You Consider?

The Sterling IonR 9.4 XEROS is our favorite bi-pattern rope thanks to a durable, tight weave, excellent versatility, and a protective dry treatment that make it the perfect choice for a variety of objectives. Not too far behind is the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Eco Dry ColorTec 9.3 that is a slightly heavier design with a slightly thinner diameter, along with a very obvious middle mark through the dual-colored design. If you're after more of a crag workhorse that's built to perform well despite tons of mileage, we think you'll be psyched on the Sterling VR9 9.8. It's way more affordable and it has a clear-defined middle mark. If you're curious about our overall favorite climbing rope, check out the Mammut 9.5 Crag Classic. This has been our go-to design for many years thanks to its excellent handling, durability, and versatility despite a slightly thicker rope diameter. And if you need a “sendy” rope to increase the odds of clipping the chains on your project or to save weight while hiking into the mountains, the Beal Opera is our favorite for the alpine.