Our Verdict
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Evolv Defy Lace | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Your First Gym Shoe | Our Favorite Slipper | Your First Outdoor Shoe | ||
| Price | $139 List Check Price at REI | $127 List Check Price at Backcountry | $160 List Check Price at REI | $139 List Check Price at REI | $99 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | Sticky rubber and a comfy fit come together at an affordable price, making this an ideal entry-level shoe | A low-cost option that is adaptable to many styles of climbing | This affordable shoe keeps up with the more premium-priced competition | A bargain price for a respectable climbing shoe makes this an easy choice for beginners | A great deal for an adequate climbing shoe |
| Rating Categories | Evolv Defy Lace | Unparallel UpMocc | Ocun Bullit | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | Evolv Defy Lace | Unparallel UpMocc | Ocun Bullit | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: up 1 EU size Performance Fit: true to EU size |
Comfort Fit: 0.5 - 1 EU sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 - 2 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: true to EU size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 - 1.5 EU sizes |
| Expected Stretch | 0 - 0.5 EU Size | 1 - 1.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size |
| Downturn | Flat | Flat | Aggressive | Flat | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Neutral | Neutral | High | Moderate | Neutral |
| Closure Style | Lace | Elastic | Velcro | Lace | Lace |
| Upper | Synthetic vegan | Leather | Microfiber | ECO Leather / Microfiber | Leather / Synthetic |
| Lining | Lined | Unlined | Lined | Unlined | None |
| Volume Options? | Regular | None | None | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) |
| Rubber Type | TRAX SAS | RH Rubber | CAT rubber 1.5 | Vibram XS Edge | FriXion RS |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | 3.5 mm | 4.2 mm | 4 mm | 5 mm | 5 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Comfort
The Defy Lace's broad toe box is pretty unique among climbing shoes, which tend to be more pointed to drive power through your big toe. This pointed design generally lends itself to higher performance, but the performance benefits are null if your feet hurt so much you can't put weight on them. So the Defy Lace offers an accommodating fit for climbers with wide feet or anyone just looking for a bit more room around their toes – our lead tester thought they even worked well for his relatively narrow foot.
The shape is flat and comfortable, the uppers are soft, and the padded tongue is nice, but they don't feel as refined as shoes that cost much more. We really notice the difference between the Defy Lace and more premium shoes around the toes. The rubber that makes the 'toe patch' – the top of the toe box that your toes push into – feels stiff and inflexible compared to shoes with softer and more sensitive rubber here. This stiff rubber limits how much you can comfortably downsize for a performance fit without creating pressure points on your toes.
Smearing
Evolv is known for its super sticky rubber outsoles, and the Defy Lace is no different. The rubber on this shoe is incredibly sticky, giving you more purchase when smearing. They feel just as grippy when smearing on large plastic volumes in the gym as they do climbing slabs outdoors.
While the Defy Lace is nice and grippy, that stickiness does come at the cost of durability. We ran into a fellow climbing guide in Rocky Mountain National Park who was wearing these shoes, and he pointed out that his soles looked like a dry, rotted tire after substantial use. This is only one example, but in our experience, soft rubber like the kind on the Defy Lace struggles to last long, especially with lots of mileage on rock.
Edging
The flat shape and supportable flex should make this shoe comfortable for standing on tiny edges. But the downside to the Defy Lace is the softer rubber. When we really put weight into our feet, the rubber felt like it rolled under our toes, making us feel less secure than we would in a shoe with harder rubber.
Unfortunately, downsizing doesn't help much because you're ultimately at the mercy of the rubber to support your weight on small edges. It will, however, keep the uppers from rolling around your foot, which helps to some extent. The Defy Lace provided enough support for most gym holds. But if you're getting out on real rock and trying to stand on dime-sized edges, a shoe with a harder rubber outsole will serve you better.
Pulling
The Defy Lace has a very subtle downturn under the toes, which helps you pull in a bit more easily on gently overhanging routes. We wouldn't choose this shoe to hang out in a bouldering cave, but these will perform well enough if you're spending more time on the ropes than on the boulder at the gym.
The flat shape and rigid sole make it harder to generate the body tension you need to climb overhangs – it feels like we always had to pull more with our arms, rather than transferring weight to our feet. The toe patch is very small for toe hooks, and the laces also get in the way. For heel hooking, the shoes do have a nice sensitive heel with very sticky rubber – if you need to really crank down on heel hooks, the Defy Lace does a fine job.
Crack Climbing
The Defy Lace actually makes for a pretty comfortable crack climbing shoe. The broad toe box and flat shape keep your toes from overlapping, so you can easily jam cracks without any (extra) pain. The sticky rubber is also great for those moments between jams when you need to smear on the face to get back into the crack.
We can't say we would put this in the lineup of top crack climbing shoes, however. The broad toe box makes thinner jams more challenging, and it lacks the ankle protection you want in wider cracks. But for trying crack climbing up through moderate grades, the Defy Lace is surprisingly solid.
Should You Buy the Evolv Defy Lace?
The Defy Lace is a great shoe for newer climbers who want to progress in vertical terrain. It may not be the best option for trying your hand at overhanging boulder problems, but it is an excellent choice for climbing roped routes at the gym, and then taking that experience to climbing outdoors. If you've struggled to find a comfortable fit in other brands, the broader Defy Lace may also help make your climbing sessions a little less painful.
What Other Rock Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
If you want to spend more time climbing real rock, you'll benefit from a shoe with a firmer rubber outsole. Our recommendation is the La Sportiva Finale – it costs the same as the Defy Lace, but with a harder Vibram outsole and a bit more ankle protection, it's better suited for climbing outdoors. For anyone drawn to bouldering, the La Sportiva Skwama Lite is likely the better choice.












