Our Verdict
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Evolv Defy Lace LV | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Best For First-Time Buyers | Best Value for Progression | |||
| Price | $139 List Check Price at REI | $159 List Check Price at REI | $160 List Check Amazon (on sale!) | $139 List Check Price at REI | $99 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | A step above your average entry-level option, this affordable shoe is our top choice for first-time buyers | This slipper is comfortable and affordable, yet it's nearly as precise as more aggressive shoes, making it the perfect upgrade from your first pair | The Up Lace shines in the multi-pitch trad realm - comfort, stiffness, and crack climbing abilities are the name of the game | For cruising around all day on moderate multi-pitches, to a volume day in the gym, these shoes are a great buy for someone just breaking into the sport, or a climber on a budget | A shoe that is great for all-day wear and is easy to take on and off |
| Rating Categories | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: up 1.5 EU size Performance Fit: up 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: true to EU size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 - 1.5 EU sizes |
| Expected Stretch | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size |
| Downturn | Flat | Moderate | Moderate | Flat | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Neutral | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate | Neutral |
| Closure Style | Lace | Velcro | Velcro | Lace | Lace |
| Upper | Synthetic Vegan | Microfiber | Synthetic | Microfiber and leather | Microfiber and leather |
| Lining | Unlined | Unlined | Microsuede | Unlined | Unlined |
| Volume Options? | Low Volume | Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) |
| Rubber Type | TRAX SAS | FriXion Black | RH rubber | Vibram XS Edge | Frixion RS |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | 4.2 mm | 4.0 mm | 3.5 mm | 5.0 mm | 1.8 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Comfort
The “LV” in Defy Lace LV stands for “low volume”, and this shoe is definitely designed for women with narrow feet. The sizing runs super small – unlike most other shoes where she'd size down, our lead tester had to size up one whole EU size to achieve a performance fit. The synthetic vegan upper won't stretch much, even after breaking them in. So if you have wider feet, you may want to size up even more.
Despite heavy use, we never experienced blisters, rubbing, or hot spots. While the flat downturn is pretty comfortable to wear for a while, we still regularly removed these shoes at belays to give our feet a break. Whether you size them a bit bigger for more comfort or a bit smaller for more performance, as we did, the laces let you tighten or loosen them more than Velcro closures, giving you a more 'custom' fit.
Smearing
Despite the solid, stiff outsole, the Defy Lace LV stuck well to slippery holds and granite slabs. Though the stiffness out of the box made us skeptical at first, once we broke them in, they were sensitive enough to feel the rock and smear with confidence.
We wore these shoes on a first ascent in the High Sierra, where we had to smear on small holds outside the crack system we were following. The neutral symmetry and flat outsole made it easier to flex this shoe around and grip smaller features. This grip also made the Defy Lace LV surprisingly effective on long-standing, polished boulder problems, like the popular ones you'll find outside Yosemite Valley's famed Camp Four.
Edging
These shoes are perfect for first-time buyers learning the fundamentals of footwork. The flat downturn and neutral asymmetry provide stability, while the TRAX SAS rubber provides enough grip to edge with confidence.
While it creates a rigid, solid platform, the 4.2 mm thick outsole also steals some sensitivity you'll eventually need for more precise footwork. We can still stand on tiny edges while we pause to figure out how to get up a moderate boulder problem, but we don't expect the same performance when they turn into difficult, overhanging problems.
Pulling
The Defy Lace LV doesn't have the most pulling power for steep, overhanging climbs. The lack of downturn, combined with a thicker outsole that reduces sensitivity, makes it harder to grab smaller holds with our toes.
The stiff outsole that makes the Defy Lace LV so great for edging also doesn't help. The sole's lack of flexibility makes it hard to toe into holds. That said, we noticed that it's easier to pull on larger holds – like the volumes you'd find at the gym or on a training board – than it is on small holds or pockets.
Cracks
We were initially pretty excited to try Defy Lace LV – the asymmetric toe and slightly cambered midsole led us to think that this shoe might be really good at climbing finger cracks. Unfortunately, the bulky toe box and extra-thick rand made it really hard to toe into smaller cracks.
Even though it lacks the coverage to protect our ankles in larger cracks or offwidths, the Defy Lace LV works well in hand cracks, specifically. Just as long as you don't size them so your toes curl at the end of the toe box, you should feel confident climbing your first cracks in these shoes, too.
Should You Buy the Evolv Defy Lace LV?
The sizing runs super small, and the low-volume construction works best for narrow feet. But once we dialed in the fit, we were impressed by the Defy Lace LV's ability to climb slabs, boulders, cracks – pretty much everything! We love them for their versatility, which is perfect for first-time buyers new to the sport.
What Other Women's Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
While we love the affordable Defy Lace LV as a high-quality, entry-level shoe, there's a chance you may outgrow it quickly – without much downturn, it may be hard to take your climbing to the next level. The La Sportiva Skwama Lite is the next logical step up. It's not much more expensive than the Defy Lace, but its minimalist, slipper-like design makes it easier to place your feet precisely. From there, it's a pretty steep step up in price and performance – a shoe like the La Sportiva Skwama, with a more aggressive downturn, performs well across the board.












