Our Verdict
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Black Diamond Momentum - Women's | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Best Value for Progression | Best For First-Time Buyers | |||
| Price | $130 List Check Price at REI | $159 List Check Price at REI | $160 List Check Amazon (on sale!) | $139 List Check Price at REI | $99 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | An affordable climbing shoe with a wide fit, it's an affordable option for beginners rather than experienced climbers looking for a bargain | This slipper is comfortable and affordable, yet it's nearly as precise as more aggressive shoes, making it the perfect upgrade from your first pair | The Up Lace shines in the multi-pitch trad realm - comfort, stiffness, and crack climbing abilities are the name of the game | A step above your average entry-level option, this affordable shoe is our top choice for first-time buyers | A shoe that is great for all-day wear and is easy to take on and off |
| Rating Categories | Black Diamond Momentum | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | Black Diamond Momentum | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: down 1 EU size Performance Fit: down 1.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: true to EU size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: up 1.5 EU size Performance Fit: up 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 - 1.5 EU sizes |
| Expected Stretch | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size |
| Downturn | Flat | Moderate | Moderate | Flat | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Neutral | Moderate | Moderate | Neutral | Neutral |
| Closure Style | Velcro | Velcro | Velcro | Lace | Lace |
| Upper | Microsuede, Knit fabric | Microfiber | Synthetic | Synthetic Vegan | Microfiber and leather |
| Lining | 60% polyester, 40% suede | Unlined | Microsuede | Unlined | Unlined |
| Volume Options? | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume | Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) |
| Rubber Type | Black Label | FriXion Black | RH rubber | TRAX SAS | Frixion RS |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | 3.5 mm | 4.0 mm | 3.5 mm | 4.2 mm | 1.8 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
The fit of the Momentum runs really large, which makes them more comfortable for folks with wide or otherwise high-volume feet. With a relatively flat sole, they're also comfortable enough to wear during your entire session.
Dislikes
Unlike other Black Diamond shoes we tested, the low-quality Black Label rubber on the Momentum makes it hard to trust your feet. Our feet slipped consistently when we tried to press into small edges – one time it left quite a bit of rubber on a hold at the gym. Even when sized correctly, the oversized design made it hard for us to tighten the shoe enough to perform well.
Should You Buy the Black Diamond Momentum Shoe?
We recognize that there aren't many wide options on the market. If you have a wide, or otherwise high-volume foot and have had a tough time trying on climbing shoes because so many are so small, then the Momentum may be the ticket to get you into climbing. Even though they're affordable, we still think there are much better options for first-time buyers.
What Other Women's Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
The La Sportiva Finale costs only a few dollars more, but it fits much better than the Momentum and provides the support and sticky rubber you need to learn to climb outdoors. If you're focused on gym climbing, the Evolv Defy Lace LV fits a bit tighter, but performs even better on overhanging boulders and harder sport climbs.










