Our Verdict
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Five Ten NIAD VCS - Women's | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards | Best Value for Progression | Best For First-Time Buyers | |||
| Price | $150 List Check Amazon (on sale!) | $159 List Check Price at REI | $160 List Check Amazon (on sale!) | $139 List Check Price at REI | $99 List Check Price at REI |
Overall Score ![]() |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Bottom Line | A reasonably priced shoe that's fairly stiff, with famously tacky rubber | This slipper is comfortable and affordable, yet it's nearly as precise as more aggressive shoes, making it the perfect upgrade from your first pair | The Up Lace shines in the multi-pitch trad realm - comfort, stiffness, and crack climbing abilities are the name of the game | A step above your average entry-level option, this affordable shoe is our top choice for first-time buyers | A shoe that is great for all-day wear and is easy to take on and off |
| Rating Categories | Five Ten NIAD VCS | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Smearing (20%) | |||||
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Pulling (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Specifications | Five Ten NIAD VCS | La Sportiva Skwama Lite | Unparallel Up Lace LV | Evolv Defy Lace LV | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Sizing Recommendations | Comfort Fit: up 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: true to down 0.5 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: true to EU size Performance Fit: down 0.5 - 1 EU sizes |
Comfort Fit: up 1.5 EU size Performance Fit: up 1 EU size |
Comfort Fit: down 0.5 EU size Performance Fit: down 1 - 1.5 EU sizes |
| Expected Stretch | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 0 - 0.5 EU size | 1 - 1.5 EU size |
| Downturn | Flat | Moderate | Moderate | Flat | Flat |
| Asymmetry | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate | Neutral | Neutral |
| Closure Style | Velcro | Velcro | Velcro | Lace | Lace |
| Upper | Soft microfiber | Microfiber | Synthetic | Synthetic Vegan | Microfiber and leather |
| Lining | Unlined | Unlined | Microsuede | Unlined | Unlined |
| Volume Options? | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) | Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume | Low Volume | Regular, Low Volume (Women's) |
| Rubber Type | Stealth C4 | FriXion Black | RH rubber | TRAX SAS | Frixion RS |
| Listed Rubber Thickness | Not listed | 4.0 mm | 3.5 mm | 4.2 mm | 1.8 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Likes
One of the best things about the Five Ten NIAD VCS is the Stealth C4 sticky rubber. It's impressively tacky and sticks just as well to indoor volumes as it does to slippery rock. Having this rubber underfoot inspires more confidence than one might expect from this otherwise entry-level shoe.
We also really like the relatively stiff construction, which gives us the confidence to stand on tiny footholds and small edges. The NIAD VCS held up really well on long, vertical routes – the extra support kept our feet from tiring out.
Dislikes
We struggled with the fit, specifically that the upper flaps barely closed around the top of our foot. They stretched a bit over time, but it meant that our whole foot wasn't covered while we were breaking them in. These also have a very narrow fit – if you have a wider forefoot, you'll want to size up or look elsewhere.
The NIAD VCS are pretty stiff and symmetrical, which makes pulling with your toes challenging. It was pretty hard on overhanging boulders to feel the rock or pull onto pockets. Our heels also consistently slipped off holds, and the heel cup didn't hug our foot tightly, which didn't add to our already shaken confidence. Put plainly: these shoes are not designed for aggressive climbing.
Should You Buy the Five Ten NIAD VCS Women's?
The Five Ten NIAD VCS is a great choice for a beginner climber who wants to progress from gym sessions to all-day, multipitch climbs. As long as you're working in the vertical, it's stiff and supportive, albeit still not all that sensitive. But if you progress to climbing overhanging boulders or sport routes, you'll want to upgrade to a more aggressive shoe.
What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider?
If you have a wider forefoot and these don't fit, check out the La Sportiva Tarantulace, which also has a flat and symmetrical shape. The Tarantulace is a great beginner shoe, versatile enough for most types of climbing and comfortable enough to wear all day. But if you're committed and really want a shoe you can progress with, we recommend the La Sportiva Skwama Lite - Women's – it costs only a few dollars more than the NIAD VCS, but is a much more well-rounded shoe.











